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Back in February, The Cut ran a piece announcing the arrival of a “vibe shift”. As the world slowly tiptoed into a post-pandemic reality, a palpable change of energy was taking place: earnest clicktivism was no longer cool, people were trading ‘that girl’ springs for ‘rat girl’ summers, and drinking dirty martinis replaced Aperol Spritzes as the cocktail du jour. Put simply, there was a return to the lowkey glamour of the late 1990s, when Kate Moss hit the red carpet in sheer slip dresses, when tartan and flannel prints represented the height of off-duty chic, when keeping last night’s hair and makeup wasn’t only accepted but encouraged.
As a brand that launched in 2001, Bec + Bridge is a fashion label perfectly poised to mine this era for inspiration. The late ’90s were, after all, formative years for designers Bec Cooper and Bridget Yorston, who grew up poring over old issues of Vogue Collections, marvelling at the theatricality of brands like Vivienne Westwood and Jean Paul Gaultier. For TWENTY-ONE, the brand’s aptly named 21st anniversary collection, which debuted at Afterpay Australian Fashion Week last night, the heyday of ’90s grunge was mixed with Y2K silhouettes and modern minimalism, a potent blend that exploded off the runway with a contagious attitude and energy.
As described in the collection’s notes, Resort ’23 experimented with dichotomies: grunge and minimalism, sensuality and austerity, obviousness and subtlety. Oversized blazers dressed up with contrasting wool sleeves. Sheer gauze blouses were finished in feminine shades of lilac and lavender, then offset with utilitarian staples like khaki mid-length skirts with oversized pockets. Low-slung silk skirts were styled with delicate bralettes, then dressed down with men’s-style tailoring.
There was corset and harnessing details mixed with the unstructured fluidity of silk and satin slip dresses cut on the bias. Grunge elements, courtesy of tartan printed trousers, dresses, and harness tops, were made with romantic fabrics like georgette and twill, and contrasted with evening glam elements like beading, sequins, and mesh. As one of the country’s most successful fashion exports, Bec + Bridge have earned the right to rest on their sartorial laurels, and yet their Resort ’23 offering proved that enduring cultural relevance comes as naturally to them as breathing.
Now, pass the martini…
