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If there’s one beauty industry veteran who’s steadfast in their approach to skincare, it’s Dr. Barbara Sturm. The Orthopaedic surgeon turned aesthetics doctor and brand founder has long preached the importance of anti-inflammatory skincare, and despite her eponymous brand being in its eighth year, has remained true to this ethos (even in an industry obsessed with hard-working topicals like vitamin A and accelerating acids – two ingredient camps Dr. Sturm has all but shied away from).
Instead, her belief is that optimal skin health begins with lowering inflammation – an underlying principle that permeates each and every one of her formulas. The latest is The Better B Niacinamide Serum, a skin-soothing blend that works to clarify, rebalance and strengthen. Having just launched locally into Mecca, GRAZIA had the opportunity to catch up with Dr. Sturm and learn all about the treatment formula, as well as how it fits into the wider product line. Her advice is interesting (spoiler: she doesn’t recommend retinol) but incredibly insightful – and hugely helpful for all those dealing with red, angry, or persistently-irritated skin.
Read on for the interview, and to shop some of Dr. Sturm’s incredible cult formulas.
READ MORE: THIS 3-INGREDIENT DIY FACE MASK COMES RECOMMENDED BY DR. BARBARA STURM
Congratulations on the new launch! Why have you chosen to formulate with niacinamide at this point in time?
I develop my skincare products according to the needs of my patients. Niacinamide is an ingredient I was frequently asked about, so I wanted to create a formula that was suitable for every skin type and to show how it can be incorporated into any routine. I had the idea to develop a Niacinamide-focused serum a few years ago, however, in creating The Better B, it took time to create the perfect formulation — too high a concentration of topical Vitamin B3 with significant amounts of residual Nicotinic Acid can have a negative effect and lead to irritation, sensitivity and redness. I wanted to offer customers an effective yet safe solution.
What’s unique about the formula?
I formulated The Better B with a potent ingredient complex that includes pure Vitamin B3 without residual Nicotinic Acid, as it can cause redness, itchiness and a burning sensation on the skin. It also includes Ectoin, an Amino Acid which helps to protect against environmental hyperpigmentation and premature skin aging, Marine Exopolysaccharides (Plankton) which help strengthen the skin barrier, boost hydration, and support the skin’s natural restorative processes, as well as Panthenol (Provitamin B5), an ultra-hydrating ingredient that also has soothing properties. For anyone looking for picture-perfect skin, this serum is your solution.
niacinamide is definitely the ingredient of the moment, but how does it actually work to improve skin health?
Topical Vitamin B3 has multiple benefits and powerful anti-inflammatory properties; it not only helps to control excess oil on the skin, helping to visibly refine and reduce the look of enlarged pores, but also helps smooth the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, improves uneven skin tone, restores radiance, strengthens the natural skin barrier, and renews the skin’s surface, reducing the effects of environmental damage. In addition, Vitamin B3 also prevents moisture loss and thus drying out of the skin (it’s a common myth that oily skin needs to be ‘dried out’) as it helps to support the natural production of skin-strengthening ceramides.
Your wider approach to skin has always been to lower inflammation, which is quite unique in an industry that’s obsessed with acids and vitamin a. I’d love for you to elaborate on how this philosophy has evolved?
As a doctor, I believe everything that touches your skin should heal rather than inflame it. So, I do not recommend aggressive anti-ageing ingredients like retinol, which stimulates pro-inflammatory cytokines, causes hyper-sensitivity to sun and contributes to redness, dryness, burning, peeling and dermatitis.
To some people, it’s a controversial opinion because retinol has an effect – and it’s popular – but I don’t believe the benefits are worth the cost. Instead, you need to reduce the inflammatory influences both externally and internally. It is not just about putting a topical cream on; there is a holistic approach to reducing inflammation and achieving wellness, which includes adopting a simple, anti-inflammatory lifestyle. With skincare ingredients I believe less is more.
How can we tell if we’re overdoing it on the skincare front? What are the warning signs to look out for?
Over-exfoliated and acid-peeled skin gives tell tale signs. A waxy, glassy, shiny forehead is one. Skin can appear reddened from the inflammation. This look is incorrectly associated with a “glow,” which it is not – it’s a sign of injury. Breakouts are common for over-exfoliated skin, as is peeling and flaking from the thinning of the skin, loss of skin barrier function and resulting dryness. Skincare should never cause any discomfort. The idea that you should “feel the burn” to get results is a myth in my opinion. Effective skincare should leave you feeling hydrated and comfortable.
You also recently released a Vitamin C serum — what was your approach when working with this ingredient?
I had been talking to a lot of my patients about Vitamin C and advising them that it was important to pay attention to the dosage and formulation. I figured it was a great opportunity to develop my own – something that was effective but skin-friendly. The Good C contains a concentration of 5% Vitamin C that’s super gentle. Its active ingredient complex includes oil-soluble Vitamin C THD, stabilised and synthetic Vitamin C in glucosidic form. Together, they help to reduce the signs of irritation and uneven pigmentation, improve tone, and provide anti-oxidative protection for a youthful complexion. The serum also contains Zinc, which acts as a booster to activate and transport Vitamin C effectively and efficiently into the skin and the antioxidant Vitamin E; combining Vitamin C and E provides greater efficacy in photoprotection than using either antioxidant alone.
You also have ranges for dark skin tones. Can you explain why this was important to you?
As an aesthetics doctor focused on combatting inflammation, I do not believe in one size fits all skincare; everyone’s skin has both overlapping and different needs. I created Darker Skin Tones line because I was aware of the scientific literature showing skin with more active melanocytes possesses a special sensitivity to the inflammation cascade, which can lead to post inflammatory hyperpigmentation and other dysfunctions. I was surprised that there were so few options tailored to address darker skin’s needs. I spent years and my own funds researching and developing an ingredient-science based skincare line to address the unique inflammation challenges of darker skin.
What other ingredients do you believe in?
I build my skincare around powerful ingredients that may be plant-based or not, but more importantly, have been widely clinically studied to determine their efficacy. One such ingredient is the natural extract Purslane or Portulaca Oleracea. It has been widely studied for its remarkable anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidative, nutritive, wound healing and telomerase-activating properties. It’s also been shown to work both topically and orally. I include it in most of my formulas.
What are some lifestyle changes we can make to lower inflammation in our skin?
- Adequate sleep: Sleep influences inflammation, the immune system, hormones, weight gain, diabetes, brain function and skin. Avoid scrolling before bed, as it can trigger the stress hormone Cortisol.
- Anti-inflammatory diet: Minimise alcohol, sugar, processed or fried foods, refined carbs and corn/cooking oil. Anti-inflammatory foods I love include salmon and fatty fish, colourful fruits and vegetables, chia seeds, olive oil, purslane, mushrooms, sweet potatoes, cottage cheese, avocados and almonds.
- Exercise: Find something you love so it’s not a chore.
- Spices: Ginger and turmeric are powerful anti-inflammatories.
- Non-caffeinated tea: Coffee in moderation is fine but a herbal blend is a good alternative.
- De-stress: The five steps above will help. Consider meditation, yoga, non-electronic reading, and breathing exercises – they work!
What does your personal skincare routine look like right now?
Twice a week, I’ll either use the Facial Scrub or Enzyme Cleanser on my face and body to remove dead skin cells and boost circulation. I apply Balancing Toner immediately after showering, then Hyaluronic Serum, The Better B Niacinamide Serum, and I’ll then Super Anti-Ageing Face Cream, my Super Anti-Ageing Neck Cream, and if I have puffy eyes, a small amount of Super Anti-Ageing Eye Cream. If I’m on Zoom or IG lives, I’ll use Glow Drops in lieu of makeup. Twice a week I’ll mask with the Face Mask, too!
At night, cleansing the skin before bed is essential to remove pollution, pathogens, oil, makeup, and other impurities. My Night Serum counteracts dryness and aids the skin’s own protection against UV-induced damage. I also take my Good Night supplements, especially after stress-filled day.
What other wellness rituals do you swear by?
A tremendous tool for skin and overall health and wellbeing that also feels great is a sauna. Sauna has been clinically shown to improve skin barrier function, regulate sebum flow and improve cardiovascular and muscular health. It’s also very relaxing and detoxifying – just be sure to follow up Hyaluronic Acid and moisturiser immediately after.
What’s one mistake you often see people making in the context of skin?
There are two that I see most often. First, when you zig and zag in-between products and brands, self-curating your skincare, which can cause the ingredients to work at cross purposes. Second, using quick fix anti-aging approaches like acid peels and harsh lasers that create inflammation and harm rather than heal your skin.
SHOP DR. STURM’S EDIT (including The Better B) VIA MECCA COSMETICA
Dr. Barbara Sturm The Better B Niacinamide Serum, $219. SHOP NOW
Dr. Barbara Sturm hyaluronic acid Serum, $449. SHOP NOW
Dr. Barbara Sturm The GOOD C VITAMIN C Serum, $217. SHOP NOW
