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Paris is quiet this morning. As the sun emerges from its Sunday sleep-in, the reality sets in that fashion has just experienced a monumental change in Sarah Burton’s departure from Alexander McQueen. With the news breaking only two weeks ago that the creative director would be stepping down after 26 years with the brand, the sadness was documented around the world, but it’s only now that we’re reconciling with the loss. After all, there was certainly no room for grief last night at her final show. Debuting her last collection in Spring/Summer 2024, Burton’s swan song catwalk was an ode to the house’s roots—both its trailblazing founder and its British roots.
Since taking over for Lee Alexander McQueen just four months after his tragic passing, Burton has carried out his significant legacy with aplomb. Channelling the same care for design and experimentation as her predecessor while bringing a unique softness to the avant-garde aesthetic. And for this last hurrah, her mission was no different to any other.
“This collection is inspired by female anatomy, Queen Elizabeth I, the blood red rose and Magdalena Abakanowicz, a transgressive and powerful artist who refused ever to compromise her vision,” she wrote in the press statement. “The show is dedicated to Lee Alexander McQueen, whose wish was always to empower women and to the passion, talent and loyalty of my team.”
leather corsetry, both structural and fluid, with peplum silhouettes that hovered over the hips, were quintessential McQueen. As were the slashed details, red blood-like fringing, delicate lace numbers and series of cut-out blazers with conical busts. British roses were printed on chiffon and leather gowns, and rosettes were even knitted into a top for look 22. Draped fringed skirts in gold, red and silver moved beautifully with the body, as did two voluminous ruffled gowns with vulval petals. In all forms, these roses were still as sweet.
An emotional Naomi Campbell, a loyal ambassador and close friend of Lee’s, closed the show in an armour-like bustier dress that assured us all that this was not a time to mourn but to celebrate a profound chapter. We may not know what Burton has in store after the curtains close, but for now, let us revel in her work and be grateful that we were able to know her inspiring vision.
