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On May 15, on the first evening of Afterpay Australian Fashion Week 2023, Nathanial Youkhana‘s eponymous label made its runway debut. But looking at what came down the catwalk, you’d be forgiven for thinking he was a veteran.
As we chased the clock in our Toyota RAV4 GXL to dash to the 6 pm show—with a renewed appreciation for internal navigation systems—we took our places at Gallery 2, taking in the buzz. In a sea of resort wear and relaxed capsule pieces, Youkhana’s ‘One Of’ collection pushes boundaries, experimenting with striking shapes and handcrafted techniques. Spending hours and hours on painstaking braiding, the designer pays respect to the long history and significance of the art as a signifier of identity and means of expression and communication for generations of black and African cultures.
From the very first look, the work that has been poured into each garment is abundantly clear. But Youkhana, who has been honing his work for the last seven years, tells us that this collection is about so much more than what’s on the surface. “It’s the story of my growth, both personally and publicly, with a focus on the details that lie deep within each garment,” he tells GRAZIA. “This is a story of resilience and determination. Being unafraid to push boundaries by staying deeply true to authenticity.”
Looks go beyond wearability, acting as head-to-toe environments that the wearer can walk into and fully embrace. The very purpose of clothing is upended, as are questions of who gets to embrace fashion. As he explains, the driving force behind his work lies in empowering wearers of all kinds, inviting those who embrace the bold and unique to join in. “I’ve created this collection for people who think outside of the box. People that appreciate handmade, one-of-a-kind pieces that will make them feel (and look) truly individual and unique,” says Youkhana.
Though his journey hasn’t been completely orthodox—Youkhana never undertook any formal schooling in design—his success is no fluke. With a natural instinct for form and affintiy for processes, this is one designer whose potential knows no limits. Couple that with an ambition to be constantly innovating and the end result is a feast for our eyes. “My creative process has always been rooted in a desire to surpass my previous accomplishments and to create designs that are truly exceptional,” he says. “Everything that I make now is mainly by hand, and very thought out.”
Below, some of our favourite looks from the Youkhana ‘One of’ collection that debuted at Afterpay Australian Fashion Week 2023.
This year, the GRAZIA Australia team travelled between AAFW shows in the refined style of Toyota’s new RAV4 GXL. With its modern and spacious interior, privacy glass, and fast charging portals for our phones, it was the perfect mode of travel for zipping across Sydney town. To find out more, visit toyota.com.au
