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For Spring/Summer 2027, Burberry went back to basics. Though, in Daniel Lee’s hands, “basics” proved anything but.
“To something instinctive. To something felt. Something true,” the Chief Creative Officer said of the collection, which found the House’s familiar codes loosened, softened and rendered more joyful through a creative collaboration with British textile artist Celia Birtwell.
At Chelsea College of Arts, Birtwell’s aristic hand was everywhere. Burberry’s signature check became gingham, then stripe, with faces and florals interrupting its orderly geometry. Her prints appeared across printed, woven and embroidered fabrics, while sketches of belts, epaulettes and cargo pockets were conceived in trompe l’oeil embroidery. “You can really feel the human hand in it,” Lee said.
The clothes followed suit. Washed silk and cotton gave womenswear a softened, lived-in quality perfect for the season, while lightweight trench coats were ruched into parachute-like volumes. Both mini and maxi silhouettes played off one another, with cropped trenches and nappa shorts bringing a fresh energy to the Maison’s famously practical wardrobe. Matelassé leather, tufting, sequins and hand-finished florals also brought texture without sacrificing ease or lightness.
Elsewhere, menswear borrowed the relaxed proportions of a well-loved inherited wardrobe: boxy blazers, cropped trousers, washed Harringtons and loose tailoring. Across both collections, nothing felt too pressed or pristine, with pieces lifted by a soft yet vibrant colour palete.
“There’s an intentional imperfection,” Lee said, “the idea of owning a piece, living in it.”
That sense of individuality extended to the casting, which included rapper Central Cee, while David Bowie’s music provided the soundtrack. Against the stripped-back white space, the tactility of the clothing was front and centre, bringing fashion back to something refreshingly grounded and human.
