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VERONA, ITALY — It would be remiss to not begin a story about the fabled northeastern Italian town of Verona without paying tribute to the piece of literature that has given the fair city the most publicity. Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet follows two star-crossed lovers from quarrelling families as their romance wreaks havoc across the cobblestoned streets. Baz Luhrmann’s 1996 film adaptation paints Verona as a hallucinogenic concoction of Miami and Mexico. But actually, the medieval province, which is flanked by the serene Lake Garda, gritty Milan and glamorous Venice, is a place of languid ease with architecture so beautiful it feels like it’s pulled from a fairytale.
Yet, as the 16th Century tragedy harks on about two households both alike in dignity, it’s a pertinent tribute that a great maison-like property can be found in the centre of Citta Antica—the thriving neighbourhood that serves as Verona’s metropolis nucleus. It’s here, in a secluded corner tucked away from the marbled Via Mazzini or grand Piazza Bra, that you’ll find Vista Verona. Opened in 2022 after careful renovations, the luxurious hotel is worthy of its five-star standing but still imposes a distinguishable boutique feel thanks to its storybook-like charm.
As you round the corner from Verona’s best artisanal gelato shop Jurri, you’re faced with a lavish five-story abode (yes, one for each well-deserved star) nestled alongside Porta Leoni, a historic gate that dates back to the Roman Empire. Alongside these ancient and modern landmarks, Vista Verona’s decorative Juliet balconies, pediments, cornices and olive trees invite you in for a moment of respite. (Bikes parked outside of the property also make for an enchanting way to see the city, though walking on foot through the time-worn alleys, along the riverbed of Adige and up through the sprawling hill that soars above the horizon is arguably the best way to familiarise yourself with Verona.)
From the moment you step into the lobby, tranquillity washes over you, which is a savoured quality for weary travellers making the pilgrimage up to this secret gem. The smiling faces of the expertly knowledgeable staff are swift to welcome you and offer up their locals-only wisdom of the city—a recommendation for dinner, perhaps? Tickets for the opera? A bottle of acqua frizzante (sparkling water,) even?
The lobby itself is designed in the manner of a beguiling abode, with plush crimson and navy furnishings speckled over a jet-black marble floor. On one side, concealed by opulent sliding French doors is a library that feels like a private study transported from the Getty Villa or Hearst Castle. Elsewhere in the foyer is a staircase lined with a 2001: A Space Odyssey red carpet winding its way through the interior of the building.
The mezzanines of the spiral steps give access to one of the hotel’s sixteen residential-style accommodations. Comprising both grand rooms and spacious suites, these quarters are both expansive and intimate despite their small number. There’s a balance between polish and ease in each lodging. Dark grasscloth wallpaper cocoons the surroundings while mosaic wood parquet floorboards add lightness and relaxation.
These rooms are truly spectacular where no detail was left unconsidered. For the bibliophile, your requested newspaper is delivered to your room each morning and brass reading lamps curve like the necks of swans to create a soothing atmosphere. For the sartorialist, you’ll find a wardrobe stocked to the brim with essentials like suede brushes, lint rollers and on-site dry cleaner. For the pre-gamer, a bar stocked with fine champagne and a resplendent shower with an in-built speaker. The showpiece, however, is the cloud-soft king-sized bed perfected by a bespoke collection of pillows specifically chosen by you depending on preferences and sleep needs.
For a shortcut to calmness, a visit to the spa and wellness centre is paramount. In the basement level, a sheltered space has been meticulously crafted to restore your energy and enact a gesture of self-indulgence. The focus of the area is a heated twelve-foot pool. As the legend goes, construction exposed a well-maintained well on the perimeter. Accurately named the ‘Romeo Well’, builders completed the bath-style alcove with a hydromassage tub, waterfall and whirlpool. These comforting amenities might be hidden in the heart of Vista Verona, but they’re worth being sought out—especially for the Biologique Recherche facial and Finish sauna alone.
It’s almost a shame that the long-lived city must compete with a contemporary marvel like this. Unlike other destinations designed to reset and unwind like the Maldives or Bali, Verona is unique in its makeup. There’s the Arena di Verona, an amphitheatre actually older than the Colosseum that regularly hosts large-scale performances. Of course, the Casa di Giulietta, or Juliet’s House, which is said to be the former Capulet Mansion. (This has been debunked, but there’s something still delightful about sneaking a look at the site where “light through yonder window breaks”.) Those looking for a change in perspective will marvel at the funicular that takes you high above the city for the best views in town. For the best meals, try the rustic La Taverna di Via Stella or legendary Trattoria al Pompiere for the juiciest pasta and freshest Aperol Spritz. (Both are recommended by hotel employees and conveniently a stone’s throw from the front door).
Yet, at Vista Verona, there is almost something more tempting about eschewing that and staying in. Once you’ve had your fun roaming through the Piazza delle Erbe, or ‘market square’ and honouring your responsibility as a tourist at the Castelvecchio, spend the afternoon idling about at Vista Verona’s panoramic rooftop bar. As the sunsets over the clay tiles roofs and to the sound of evening church bells, bask in the magic of a region unspoiled. In Verona, pleasant delights really do have pleasant ends.
To discover more about the Vista Verona, click here.
