Model Bella Hadid backstage at NYFW. Image credit: Getty Images

Nobody forgets their first Biologique Recherche P50 experience. For starters, it has many defining characteristics: the tell-tale tingle, the onion-meets-vinegar scent. And of course, there’s the fact that it yields enough power to take lifeless skin and turn it into something wonderful. But devout user or otherwise, it’s a skincare product that’s shrouded in mystery. Sure, we know it’s a potent blend of AHAs and BHAs but what’s the P50 secret sauce that sets it apart from other chemical exfoliants? And more importantly, what’s the difference between the four varieties within the franchise?

To help shed some light, we’ve enlisted US General Manager of Biologique Recherche Laura Gerchik to talk us through the P50 backstory, the differences between formulas and how to find your perfect match.

Keep reading for details. 

GRAZIA: What is the condensed backstory of the P50 lotion franchise?

LAURA: In 1970, founder Yvan Allouche created the first Lotion P50: a progressive, purifying, reconditioning exfoliating treatment with a unique formula to help the epidermis regain and express its original regenerating properties. The result of much research in epidermal reconditioning, Lotion P50 became the cornerstone of the Biologique Recherche methodology and by far its most famous product.

GRAZIA: Why do you think it’s reached cult status? 

LAURA: Biologique Recherche Lotion P50 is a do-all skincare product that delivers undeniable results. It’s not just an exfoliator. The vitamin-enriched formula gently purifies, hydrates, tones, moisturises, controls sebum and balances skin, while visibly improving many common conditions including balancing your skin’s pH, regulating oil production and acne, brightening dark spots and evening skin texture.

Many exfoliants on the market are harsh and are recommended to be used twice a week only, whereas P50 is mild with added skincare benefits, and can be used up to twice a day.

The formulas are effective due to their unique combination of hydroxyl acids. They offer exfoliating ingredients like lactic acid and cider vinegar to remove dead cells and promote an even skin tone. Plus salicylic acid, which makes the product great for combating acne and keeping skin clear of blemishes. It also contains ingredients like Vitamin B3 that improves the strength of the epidermis, balance the surface pH of the skin, all while enhancing epidermal renewal.

THE P50 FAMILY

P50

Who’S IT FOR? 

For those new to Lotion P50, we recommend using it once a day by applying the formula to a cotton ball and diluting it with water. Once your tolerance builds, you can stop diluting the formula and graduate to applying twice a day (morning and night). It’s a bit like a workout, you have to be consistent to see results. The original P50 is recommended for seborrheic and/or keratinised skin types.

What makes it unique in terms of ingredients?

Sorrell, Extract of Myrrh, Myrtle, Extract of Onion.

And how do they work?

As with all of the Lotion P50s, the formula removes dead cells and impurities. With its exfoliating and regulating action, it fortifies and stimulates the epidermal functions, purifies the skin, promotes epidermis renewal, increases the resistance and quality of the epidermis and balances pH on the skin’s surface.

BIOLOGIQUE RECHERCHE P50, SHOP NOW.

P50V

Who’S IT FOR? 

Lotion P50V is recommended for less toned or devitalised complexions.

What makes it unique in terms of ingredients?

Extract of Myrrh, Myrtle, Extract of Onion, Plankton, Brewer’s Yeast.

And how do they work?

With its enriched exfoliating and regulating action, it tones, fortifies and stimulates the epidermal functions, purifies the skin, promotes epidermis renewal, increases the resistance and quality of the epidermis and balances pH on the skin’s surface.

Biologique Recherche P50v, shop now. 

P50W

Who’S IT FOR? 

It’s recommended for thin and reactive skin types.

What makes it unique in terms of ingredients?

Panama Wood Bark, Burdock.

And how do they work?

The ingredients have a soft, exfoliating and regulating action on the skin.

Biologique Recherche P50W, ShOP now.

P50 PIGM 400

Who’S IT FOR? 

PIGM 400 is ideal for dull complexions and those suffering from hyperpigmentation.

What makes it unique in terms of ingredients?

Magnesium Chloride, Magnesium Sulfate, Meadowsweet Extract, Dulse Extract, Fruit complex made of Peach, Apple and Raspberries

And how do they work?

It brightens skin, reduces the size of pigment spots and prevents their appearance. The formula also inhibits the synthesis of melanin, and unifies and illuminates the complexion.

Biologique Recherche P50 pigm 400, SHOP NOW.

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