Off-White—the disruptive, avant-garde streetwear brand founded by the late Virgil Abloh in 2015—has taken many forms. Of course, there are the literal arrow shapes and quote marks that permeated the zeitgeist at the pinnacle of the brand’s cultural chokehold. But as a whole, it’s hard to ignore the malleability of a label that can seamlessly fuse with its surroundings be it the Le Carrousel du Louvre or, most recently, Brooklyn Bridge Park’s Pier 2. 

Indeed, Off-White has marked its first show on New York soil for the Spring/Summer 2025 season. Flanked by the East River and surrounded by basketball courts, creative director Ib Kamara fused community spirit and a global outlook for a collection titled ‘Duty Free’. As the 41-piece range signals, Off-White is more sexy, sportif and subversive than ever. The title evokes the image of transitory spheres like airports, however, the ensembles aren’t intended for the journey but for the destination.

The first three offerings emulate something some stylish Parisian would’ve worn while wandering through the French capital amid the Olympic games. Body-conscious zip-up jackets with boned lining and varsity detailing, including the one worn by Australian model Lily Vander Meeden, are references to the international event yet refuse to be defined by them. The subtle nod to the premiere athletic tournament and the brand’s former show locale transpires in the tricolour blue, white and red outfits that open the show.

Elsewhere, references to performance wares were seen in mermaid skirts predominantly made from the netting seen on sneakers. Yet in Off-White’s world, these pieces are adorned with feathers and feature a celestial shape accented with shimmering discs. Yes, she’s a runner, she’s a track star. Still, silhouettes never go too far to be overtly obvious of their origins. Perhaps like the eclectic trinkets you pick up along your travels, the standout looks are the ones that mix references and textures.

Take the asymmetrical belt skirt made from thick brands with sequin embroidery and finish with cascading sheer fabric. Depending on how it’s styled—the midi is layered with a leotard-esque top that plummets below the belly button and a souped-up jacket made from ecru camo and denim epaulettes—pieces can take on a whole new walk of life. Elsewhere, more traditional items like indigo-wash denim jeans were rendered with the Off-White touch with exposed high-octane thread or tailored leather vests designed with utility-style pockets.

If the front row, which included appearances from former One Direction member Zayn Malik, Mary J Blige, and Camila Cabello, is a testament to the ethos behind the range, it’s that Off-White’s new season has the potential to show up anywhere; on stage, in transit or in situ. Kamara is certainly progressing on the right path.

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