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I have Lorde’s psychedelic and summer-fuelled third album Solar Power on in the background as I’m writing this introduction to my conversation with Maggie Marilyn’s founder and creative director Maggie Hewitt.
The parallels between the themes of boundless optimism and the light-filled liberation creativity can provide both explored by the New Zealand natives aren’t lost on me. In fact, I’d go so far to argue the methodology of Maggie Marilyn has always been to provide an “Oceanic Feeling”—track twelve on the album—with the label a personification of the tender and personal moments only felt in the summer time.
I converse with Hewitt over email as the designer makes a proverbial voyage to Australia from her hometown in New Zealand’s balmy Bay of Islands. Her journey to supplant a piece of Maggie Marilyn in Australia is part of her timeless mission to forge a creative community on both sides of the Tasman. It’s not just a sartorial pursuit for the label, but a deeply personal endeavour to make a home away from home for her blissfully feminine ethical ready-to-wear label.
For adherents of MM—as Hewitt fondly has nicknamed her namesake label—this wanderlust or travelling spirit one of the most enchanting parts of the eco-conscious label. The brand forgoes labelling their collection by seasons, instead opting for a wider vocabulary that employs the terms “forever” and “somewhere” to serve as guides for the type of garment you wish to own.
But, if the brand was operating seasonally, the modus operandi of Maggie Marilyn would be designing in search of a never ending summer, much like the sun-kissed mornings and salt-filled evenings that call for MM’s pieces. Now, Hewitt is ready to encapsulate the dreamer’s disposition that her creations so masterfully evoke and present this escapist essence in a runway format—a first for the brand, and Australia.
Selecting Australia as opposed to Hewitt’s home country of New Zealand to unveil Maggie Marilyn’s first ever runway show is part of the label’s wider methodology to use fashion as a tool to create a better world. As Hewitt explains, Sydney is a sentimental location fuelled by the harbour-cities resemblance to her own coastal childhood town of Kerikeri. But, it’s also the space where Maggie Marilyn took its tender first steps to become the globally-lauded, pioneering and sustainably stylish brand it’s now recognised as.
Unlike other brands, whose runway show’s may be measured by dollar figures or Instagram hashtags, Hewitt is using the show as a space to educate, grow, and inspire. Employing old friends and new silhouettes, Maggie Marilyn’s AAFW 23 show will be a history-making moment for the brand. One that is set to change the trajectory of this friendly and familiar label forever.
It’s not so often that we get to see brands of this calibre return to their roots, but here, Hewitt explains the importance of interconnection, feel-good fashion and how clothing can help to create a better world.
As Lorde said herself on track two, come on and let the bliss begin.
GRAZIA: Last year, you put your roots down in Australia by opening your first Aussie boutique, what role has Australia played in your path to international domination?
MAGGIE HEWITT: We opened Maggie Marilyn’s first international Home in Sydney last August, but we’ve felt incredible support and camaraderie from our Australian community since the beginning. And Australian Fashion Week is particularly close to my heart as it’s where we debuted Maggie Marilyn’s first collection six years ago and it became the platform where we caught the eye of Net-a-Porter and were ultimately picked up by them – something typically unheard of for a brand in its first season.
GRAZIA: The DNA of your brand is rooted in ethical and sustainable design. What do you think is still missing from the conversation around considered fashion?
HEWITT: It’s such a nuanced conversation, and the challenges of re-calibrating the fashion industry to one that puts the planet and its people first are ongoing, but I think a lot of customers remain unaware that the word “sustainable” is unregulated, which means its susceptible to greenwashing and misinterpretation.
The lack of regulation means a brand can deem itself “sustainable” simply by isolating and achieving one KPI that improves the health or wellbeing of people or the planet, but the reality is that we’re in a climate and biodiversity crisis.
Businesses should reflect that at every tier of their operations – from where and how they source their raw materials, to the conditions those materials are processed in, to garment production and dispatch. At MM we’re by no means perfect, and our pursuit of a business model that allows our people and the planet to thrive will be a lifelong commitment but I’ve never been more hopeful that it’s possible.
GRAZIA: Your look books are always so evocative and rooted in community. How are you translating that to an IRL experience?
HEWITT: Without giving too much away, the venue for our show is a space rooted in the importance of community, and is known for being a melting pot of people, so this was a very conscious decision. I’m excited for our friends and peers to see the show, connect with each other, and then join the dots as to why we chose this place! But venue aside, the decision to show at fashion week in any capacity reflects MM’s belief in community and mission to use fashion to create a better world. At this point in our journey it felt like the right time to present a runway show.
GRAZIA: What does having your brand showcase at AAFW mean to you as a designer?
HEWITT: We’re so honoured to be presenting at AAFW and representing our New Zealand roots which we’re so proud of. To be one of only two New Zealand designers feels like such a privilege, and the other Kiwi designer is Wynn Hamlyn who is a dear friend of mine.
GRAZIA: How is this year’s iteration of fashion week different from previous years?
HEWITT: In 2021, we showcased our collection through a film, A Brave New World, directed by Duc Thinh Dong and shot at The Range in Byron Bay. So I’m excited to be showcasing our first runway show at AAFW and it’s even more special that we’ve been able to collaborate again with some of the creatives who were a part of A Brave New World like Duc and stylist Emma Kalfus.
GRAZIA: What rituals have you implemented into your routine in the lead-up to AAFW?
HEWITT: I’d love to say “more sleep”! But inevitably this time is always lacking in much rest or adequate sleep. I’m a nature baby at heart, so I never compromise on getting onto the beach every single morning for a walk or swim – regardless of the weather. I feel so lucky to live in North Bondi so I can swim in the ocean most days. I’ve made getting into nature a high priority in the lead up to fashion week to ensure I stay grounded and connected to my purpose.
GRAZIA: What’s on your pre-AFW playlist
HEWITT: A lot of Van Morrison, Otis Redding and Tom Petty. The kinds of songs that play on loop in your head at the end of a perfect summer’s day.
GRAZIA: What’s more important: the location of the show or the timeslot of the show?
HEWITT: I think both can work to your favour or detriment, but at the end of the day it’s the clothes that hold the power!
The garments are what will evoke the right feeling or mood in the crowd – I believe in clothing as a passport.
That being said, we’re particularly excited about the location of our show this year; it’s a place steeped in nostalgia and immediately returns its patrons to those familiar modes of comfort afforded to us in summer.
GRAZIA: How does your Australian customer embody your brand’s DNA in a way international customers don’t?
HEWITT: MM has always found a kindred spirit in our Australian customer. I think Aussies share MM’s optimism – despite the challenges we collectively face – and belief in the power of community. But most of all I think MM’s love of Mother Nature is what resonates with Australians. No matter where you live in Australia or what kind of nature you’re closest to – red-sand deserts or white-sand beaches – the beauty and fragility of nature is right on your doorstep, and this gives the Australian customer context for MM’s commitment to treading lightly on the planet.
GRAZIA: What do you think your brand brings to the Australian fashion landscape?
HEWITT: I think the optimism and joy infused in my designs is something the Australian customer gravitates towards. Maggie Marilyn is unapologetically hopeful and I’m always looking to communicate that, whether through vibrant, playful, feminine silhouettes or elevated wardrobe essentials that make the wearer stand a little taller.
GRAZIA: Without giving too much away, what are the three words you’d use to describe the vibe of your show?
HEWITT: Optimism, joy and summer nostalgia.
Read more in-depth interviews with designers showcasing at AAFW 23, including ALÉMAIS, BEC + BRIDGE and Caroline Reznik in GRAZIA’s pre-fashion week series: ‘In Focus’.
