{"id":95802,"date":"2024-10-08T09:11:58","date_gmt":"2024-10-08T09:11:58","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/us\/?post_type=articles&p=95802"},"modified":"2024-10-11T16:54:15","modified_gmt":"2024-10-11T16:54:15","slug":"annie-hall-diane-keaton-style-grazia-usa-fall-2024","status":"publish","type":"articles","link":"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/us\/articles\/annie-hall-diane-keaton-style-grazia-usa-fall-2024\/","title":{"rendered":"The Enduring Appeal of Annie Hall Style"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Diane Keaton in Annie Hall, 1977. Photo Credit: \u00a9 Ronald Grant\/Rollins-Joffe Productions\/Alamy Stock Photo, used with permission of Rizzoli New York<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

When we\u2019re introduced to Diane Keaton\u2019s defining character Annie Hall, the protagonist of the Woody Allen film of the same name for which she won the 1978 Academy Award for Best Actress, she\u2019s dressed androgynously in a tailored vest, dress shirt, wide-leg trousers, and an even wider blue and white polka dot silk tie, with her shoulder-length brown hair tucked into a bowler hat. Her love interest tells her he loves what she\u2019s wearing, and she responds with one of her charming non sequiturs, \u201cOh you do? Yeah? Well this tie is a present from Grammy Hall,\u201d referring to a grandmother who lives in Wisconsin. It\u2019s hard to overstate the influence that scene has had on fashion at the time, helping popularize traditionally menswear-coded attire for a female market and making Keaton an enduring style icon.<\/p>\n

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Diane Keaton in 1977, 2014, and 2023. Photo Credit: Bettman\/Getty Images, Theo Wargo\/NBC\/Getty Images for The Tonight Show Starring Jimmy Fallon, Pierre Suu\/Getty Images<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

In Keaton\u2019s photo album-like personal style memoir, Fashion First<\/a>, <\/i>out this month from Rizzoli, the actor born Diane Hall and nicknamed Annie showcases her remarkably consistent look through hand-annotated red carpet moments, magazine editorials, street-style shots, and even a bowler hat baby photo. At 78, Keaton still favors the same silhouettes she wore nearly five decades ago as Annie Hall (these days from Ralph Lauren, Thom Browne, Louis Vuitton, and Gucci). TikTok loves her for it. Annie Hall stans offer how-to-tie-a-tie tutorials on the social media platform as Gen Z discovers the joys of la-di-da style. And famous necks from Zendaya<\/a> and Anne Hathaway to Janet Jackson and Selma Blair have sported ties in recent months.<\/p>\n

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Anne Hathaway in Ralph Lauren Collection, Janet Jackson in Thom Browne, Selma Blair in Schiaparelli haute couture. Photo Credit: Jamie McCarthy\/Getty Images, Gilbert Carrasquillo\/GC Images, Jacopo Raule\/Getty Images<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Windsor knots were also all over the Fall\/Winter 2024 runways. At Loewe, Jonathan Anderson sent out a trio of Annie Hall look-alikes in striped silk ties, pastel shirts, cashmere vests, and balloon trousers. \u201cDiane is so uniquely herself, an icon, and a true individual,\u201d says Thom Browne, who showed ties with half of his layered tailored looks. \u201cThe fact that when we see women in ties on the catwalk today, the first thing that comes to mind is Annie Hall <\/i>is a testament to the film\u2019s lasting impact,\u201d says Marta Franceschini, an fashion historian and curator who worked on the Victoria & Albert Museum\u2019s Fashioning Masculinities <\/a><\/i>exhibit. For Franceschini, they also recall the Regency-era trendsetter Beau Brummell, the father of dandyism widely credited with being a pioneer of the necktie. \u201cIn the early 19th century there was this satirical pamphlet called Neckclothitania <\/i>that explained to men the many myriad of ways in which they could style their neck,\u201d she says.<\/p>\n

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Loewe, Thom Browne, Moshino. Photo Credit: Courtesy of Loewe, JP Yim\/Getty Images, Justin Shin\/Getty Images<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Now, it appears, designers are proposing inventive ways for women to style themselves. Ties are a must-have accessory for Fall\/Winter 2024, both at tailoring-centric labels like Giorgio Armani and Ralph Lauren, where they were they were given a Western spin with fringed suede pants and cowboy hats, and in rather less expected quarters such as purveyor of catsuits and other high-wattage evening looks LaQuan Smith. \u201cWhile updating the iconic Annie Hall <\/i>look, I aimed to infuse contemporary elements that resonate with today\u2019s fashion while maintaining the classic charm that Diane Keaton so effortlessly embodied in the film,\u201d says Smith of his pinstripe vest minidress worn with a tie and glossy knee-high boots.<\/p>\n

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Giorgio Armani, Ralph Lauren Collection, LaQuan Smith. Photo Credit: Estrop\/Getty Images, Courtesy of Ralph Lauren Collection, Victor Virgile\/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Other designers freed ties from the association with tailoring tradition. They were shown with twisted riffs on sweats at Ottolinger, a leopard padded shrug and wide-leg jeans at Vaquera, and a mini-dress made from upcycled leather trousers at Hodakova. At Noir Kei Ninomiya, a wool jumpsuit sprouted five tie-shaped faux leather protuberances.<\/p>\n

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Ottolinger, Vaquera, Hodakova. Photo Credit: Courtesy of Ottolinger, Natalie Ivanova\/BFA.com, R\u00e9mi Procureur, courtesy of Hodakova<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

It\u2019s been said that Ralph Lauren invented the Annie Hall <\/i>look, but in the foreword to Fashion First <\/i>he attempts to set the record straight. \u201cI am often credited with dressing Diane in her Oscar-winning role as Annie Hall. Not so,\u201d he demures. \u201cAnnie\u2019s style was Diane\u2019s style. Very eclectic. She loved floppy hats and oversized men\u2019s jackets. She loved dangly neckties.\u201d Lauren did design a tuxedo jacket for Keaton, plus several of the tweedy blazers worn by Allen. But the rest of Keaton\u2019s costumes largely comprised Goodwill menswear finds she pulled from her own closet. The famous polka dot tie was the same one she had previously worn with a white Richard Tyler suit to present at the 1976 Academy Awards. \u201cIt was not the norm back then for a woman to wear a suit in general, let alone to the Oscars,\u201d Keaton recalls of her dapper getup. \u201cI am not sure how I gathered the courage but, to be honest, I think I just didn\u2019t care. I wanted to feel like myself, and wearing a suit was the only way.\u201d<\/p>\n

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Diane Keaton presenting in Richard Tyler at the Academy Awards, 1976. Photo Credit: Michael Montfort\/Michael Ochs Archives\/Getty Images<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Although Keaton didn\u2019t wear many Ralph Lauren garments in Annie Hall, <\/i>what is clear is that she and the designer were stylistically simpatico. \u201cI remember in the 1970s going into Ralph Lauren\u2019s store,\u201d says Keaton. \u201cI couldn\u2019t believe what I was seeing. It was the beginning of women\u2019s clothes being slightly more masculine\u2014but not too masculine that you couldn\u2019t pull it off.\u201d Lauren, who first made his name with a line of four-inch wide ties called Polo, put women in tailored separates beginning with his debut women\u2019s collection for Spring\/Summer 1973. \u201cEver since she came to my early fashion shows \u2026 we just clicked,\u201d recalls Lauren. \u201cI liked her style, and she liked mine.\u201d In a review of his Fall\/Winter 1978 show held three weeks after Keaton won her Oscar, former New York Times fashion critic Bernadine Morris remarked on the abundance of \u201cman-tailored suits\u201d and ties in the lineup and noted that \u201cDiane Keaton, Annie Hall herself, leaned forward in her front-row seat at this one, clapped happily and murmured \u2018perfect.\u2019\u201d<\/p>\n

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Alberta Ferretti, Elisabetta Franchi, Noir Kei Ninomiya. Photo Credit: Courtesy of Alberta Ferretti, Pietro D’Aprano\/Getty Images, Courtesy of Noir Kei Ninomiya<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Today, tailoring telegraphs ease and polish for people of all genders and women\u2019s wear designers have adapted each piece of the classic Saville Row three-piece suit and made it their own. See: Democratic presidential nominee Vice President Kamala Harris\u2019s custom Chlo\u00e9 pantsuit and former first lady Michelle Obama\u2019s Monse deconstructed vest with crisscross lapels for their speeches at the Democratic National Convention.<\/p>\n

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Ella Emhoff in Thom Browne at the Democratic National Convention. Photo credit: Chip Somodevilla\/Getty Images<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Interestingly the one bit of haberdashery that hasn\u2019t quite gone mainstream for women in the halls of power\u2014 yet\u2014is the tie. Early adopters at Chicago\u2019s United Center included Harris\u2019s step-daughter Ella Emhoff, who wore one with a Thom Browne shrunken plaid suit, and stylist and influencer Tina Leung, who styled a Max Mara herringbone double-breasted jacket and high-slit midi skirt with a tie in the same fabric. \u201cA tie just brings a look up a notch and pulls it all together,\u201d says Leung.<\/p>\n

Read GRAZIA USA’<\/em>s Fall Issue featuring cover star Demi Lovato<\/a>:<\/strong><\/h4>\n