{"id":89408,"date":"2024-04-02T17:28:42","date_gmt":"2024-04-02T17:28:42","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/us\/?post_type=articles&p=89408"},"modified":"2024-04-02T17:28:42","modified_gmt":"2024-04-02T17:28:42","slug":"my-moon-is-in-prada-fashion-astrology-grazia-usa-spring-2024","status":"publish","type":"articles","link":"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/us\/articles\/my-moon-is-in-prada-fashion-astrology-grazia-usa-spring-2024\/","title":{"rendered":"My Moon Is in Prada"},"content":{"rendered":"
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NETHERLANDS – CIRCA 1660: Andreas Cellarius (1596-1665) was a Dutch-German cartographer. He is best known for his Harmonia Macrocosmica of 1660, a major star atlas, published by Johannes Janssonius in Amsterdam. (Photo by Buyenlarge\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

At the start of the Spring 2024 runway shows, a calamity: Mercury was retrograde, and the cosmic effects of astrology\u2019s most dreaded season were proving their might. Among the casualties were a Paris robbery that swiped 50 Balmain showroom samples, a PETA catwalk crasher at Gucci in Milan, and a New York traffic jam so bad, it kept Marc Jacobs from arriving at the Proenza Schouler show before the lights dimmed. He watched the finale through a window outside.<\/p>\n

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L-R: Gucci\u2019s Cosmogonie show 2023, Madonna wearing Versace at the Met Gala 1997. Photos via Getty Images<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\u201cThat week, I was wearing a dress by a new designer I was so excited about,\u201d says Chloe King, the fashion market and editorial director at Neiman Marcus. \u201cBut as I was getting out of my car before a show, I heard a giant rip. The seam split right at my rear end, and I had to tie my blazer around my waist so I wouldn\u2019t flash the street-style photographers. \u2026 Now I check to see if Mercury is retrograde<\/a> during any of the big fashion weeks. Then I pack a backup dress in the car, just in case.\u201d<\/p>\n

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Backstage at Altuzarra RTW Fall 2024 as part of New York Ready to Wear Fashion Week held at the Woolworth Building on February 11, 2024 in New York, New York. (Photo by Nina Westervelt\/WWD via Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

King isn\u2019t the only one using the stars to guide her style, especially during crucial fashion moments. Designers like Joseph Altuzarra, Daniel Roseberry at Schiaparelli, and Kim Jones at Fendi have been astronomically astrological in recent collections, embroidering constellations into their knitwear and eveningwear the way Morgan le Fay stitched spells into King Arthur\u2019s scabbard before he hit the battlefield. \u201cFashion week is a kind of war, after all,\u201d winked writer Katharine Zarrella after emerging from the Fforme show in New York, where designer Paul Helbers instructed his models to circle the audience in a kind of cashmere-swathed mandala. \u201cAnd it\u2019s such a precarious business. We need all the mystical protection we can get.\u201d<\/p>\n

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L-R: Schiaparelli cape (1938), Nicole Kidman wearing Sarah Burton at the Met Gala 2016. Photos via Getty Images<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Fashion\u2019s reliance on magical energy goes back many moons<\/a>. In 1938, Elsa Schiaparelli created her famous Zodiac Collection, inspired by star signs on the ceiling of Versailles. By the late 1940s, Christian Dior counted a mysterious Parisian astrologer named Madame Delahaye as part of his atelier, consulting her for all major business and personal decisions. (The current Apple TV+ series The New Look <\/em>opens with a scene of Dior, played by Ben Mendelsohn, paralyzed with fear after peering at his tarot cards.) In 1946, Dior began his couture atelier after stepping on a metal star charm on the street outside his studio and taking it as a sign from the universe; star charms still famously dangle from Miss Lady Dior handbags today. As \u201cThe Age of Aquarius\u201d blared on pop radio stations in the \u201960s, actual Aquarian runes were scrawled across a Harper\u2019s Bazaar<\/em> \u201cCult of the Zodiac\u201d photo shoot by Hiro Wakabayashi. Yves Saint Laurent\u2019s printed horoscope dresses for his Rive Gauche line in 1976 and 1982 were so popular, they were eventually reincarnated in Saint Laurent\u2019s 2018 collection. The year 1998 brought Jean Paul Gaultier\u2019s famous zodiac knitwear collection, which transposed Art Nouveau astrology posters onto cardigans and slip dresses.<\/p>\n

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Paris, FRANCE: A model presents a creation by British designer John Galliano for Christian Dior during the Fall\/Winter 2006-07 Haute Couture collections, 05 July 2006 in Paris. AFP PHOTO FRANCOIS GUILLOT (Photo credit should read FRANCOIS GUILLOT\/AFP via Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

In 2006, John Galliano\u2019s couture show for Dior was entirely based on astrology signs, and featured Heidi Klum hauling an embroidered Leo tapestry down the runway along with Jessica Stam in a crab-claw crown (really) with a coral bodice cinching her waist. \u201cThe evolution of astrological art moves parallel with our own progressive growth as humans,\u201d writes Jessica Hundley in her book, The Library of Esoterica. \u201cEach generation finds its own connection to the cosmos within art and imagination, expressing individual experience through astrology\u2019s universal language.\u201d And in fashion, that language becomes a commercial selling point, too.<\/p>\n

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L-R: Lingua Franca crewneck, Zimmermann dress Fall 2022. Photos via Getty Images<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Take Lingua Franca\u2019s spring zodiac embroidery crewnecks, starting at $520, which sold out in every colorway before designer Rachel Hruska was able to restock. (Though if you\u2019re craving a moss green Pisces sweater, tough luck\u2014that one\u2019s gone for good.) Fendi\u2019s silk astrology trousers, $1,100, disappeared so fast from Cettire that $69 dupes now crowd the fast-fashion racks. And unlike almost every other contemporary fashion collection, Zimmermann\u2019s Celestial Zodiac collection of 2022 is actually more<\/em> expensive via resale sites than it was in stores, with the starry lace dress that closed the show commanding over $3,500 on Poshmark and $2,000 via eBay. (It originally retailed for $1,400.)<\/p>\n

“I will say that the Uranus in Taurus transit has inspired me to think more deeply about my style, my appearance.” \u2014Chrissy Rutherford<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

But just adorning oneself with astrological symbols is not the same as protecting oneself from cosmic throes, says astrologer Ophira Edut of the AstroTwins, who forecasts regularly for ELLE.com. \u201cIf there\u2019s an astrological event like Mercury Retrograde<\/a>, you want to think about what it means,\u201d she told me, when I asked if my fashion choices should be steered by the heavens. \u201cThat period is all about reflection, so it seems like a great opportunity to go back into your closet, pull out some archival looks, or some great drop-waist tailoring that\u2019s an homage to the past.\u201d<\/p>\n

Writer and influencer Chrissy Rutherford, who works regularly with the astrologer Rebecca Gordon, agreed that she wasn\u2019t wearing Loewe\u2019s famous fish-print denim or even fishnet stockings from CVS, just because Pisces season is happening during the February runways. \u201cHowever, I will say that the Uranus in Taurus transit has inspired me to think more deeply about my style, my appearance, and how I’m presenting myself,\u201d she admits. \u201cTaurus is ruled by Venus, which is associated with beauty, romance, and luxury. \u2026 Also, Friday is the day of the week associated with Venus. I have an old C\u00e9line button-down shirt that has a rose on the chest, so I call it my Venus shirt, and it’s my favorite thing to wear on Fridays.\u201d<\/p>\n

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Milky Way in the Sagittarius region with meteor streak. The trail of a meteor is seen against the Milky Way galaxy that contains our Solar System. It is part of the Sagittarius constellation. Artist NASA. (Photo by Heritage Space\/Heritage Images\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Designer Karen Erickson of the jewelry line Erickson Beamon<\/a> doesn\u2019t choose her clothes according to the stars, but she does <\/em>curate her boardroom accordingly. \u201cI opened my business when I was really young,\u201d she explains. \u201cI kept noticing that the same people in the same positions made the same mistakes. I started asking people their zodiac signs, and I\u2019d realize different people did better work with different signs. For instance, a Cancer can\u2019t collect money; they\u2019re too emotional.\u201d In the \u201890s, Erickson would make her answering machine message a weekly zodiac forecast. She stopped after 9\/11, when her astrological advice included the phrase, \u201cTime is running out; you need to decide if you\u2019re an agent for good or you want to repeat the same mistakes and tragedies.\u201d<\/p>\n

“I started asking people their zodiac signs, and I\u2019d realize different people did better work with different signs. For instance, a Cancer can\u2019t collect money.” \u2014Karen Erickson<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

\u201cPeople freaked out, obviously,\u201d says Erickson, \u201cBut look, the moon can control tides. If the moon runs the ocean, why wouldn\u2019t it also run our bodies? We\u2019re made of water, even if we\u2019re not a water sign!\u201d (Erickson is an Aquarius, which is, she is quick to remind me, \u201cactually an air sign.\u201d)<\/p>\n

To align her body with celestial energies, Erickson says she uses metals, stones, and color vibrations as part of powerful dressing. \u201cI believe inanimate objects hold a tremendous amount of power. The energy we put into the things around us affects everything. If you go to court, you\u2019re supposed to wear navy blue. That\u2019s what my Kabbalistic astrology teacher told me, and I won my case.\u201d<\/p>\n

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Jennifer Meyer Evil Eye charm. Photo via Getty Images<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

California designer Jennifer Meyer, whose evil eye charms adorn the throats of stars like Jennifer Aniston and Meghan Markle, suggests harnessing the power of crystals, metals, and stones for energetic protection during tricky times. \u201cTurquoise is very protective while traveling,\u201d she says. \u201cLapis is great for revealing deeper inner truths, and diamonds are the ultimate for love and clarity.\u201d Meyer also cites numerology as a way to tap into mystical currents. \u201cI\u00a0particularly love the number 13,\u201d she says, \u201cTo show that anything you believe in can be lucky.\u201d<\/p>\n

“Lapis is great for revealing deeper inner truths, and diamonds are the ultimate for love and clarity.” \u2014Jennifer Meyer<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

Taylor Swift would doubtless agree\u2014as would Chrissie Miller. The Warby Parker creative director and co-founder of beloved Naughty Aughties line Sophomore NYC is also the daughter of renowned astrologer Susan Miller. \u201cGrowing up, I\u2019d watch my mom advise so many designers about when to do runway shows and release new collections based on their charts,\u201d she says. \u201cBut when it\u2019s your mom, you don\u2019t always listen. You kind of rebel. I remember one fashion week, I was wearing these huge Prada heels, and my mom said, \u2018Chrissy, be careful with your ankles, it\u2019s not a good time for balance in your chart<\/a>.\u2019 Of course I ignored her, and of course I fell and twisted my ankle. \u2026 But I skipped a party to go out to dinner that night, because I wasn\u2019t feeling great, and that\u2019s how I ended up hanging out with my now-husband. So sometimes, when you think you\u2019ve been cursed by the stars, it\u2019s actually the opposite!\u201d<\/p>\n

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Star cloud in Sagittarius constellation. Artist NASA. (Photo by Heritage Space\/Heritage Images\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

And then there are those who think astrology is a lot like a Jonathan Anderson stint at Louis Vuitton: Fun to discuss, but totally imaginary. \u201cI\u2019ve had a lot of great luck this year and I\u2019ve never looked at a horoscope,\u201d says Lauren Chan, the model who sold her womenswear company Hening and landed a Sports Illustrated <\/em>swimsuit spread, all in the span of six months. \u201cI get it,\u201d she shrugged at the 3.1 Phillip Lim show during New York Fashion Week. \u201cBut as far as I\u2019m concerned, Mercury is in Gatorade.\u201d<\/p>\n

Read GRAZIA USA<\/em>\u2019s Spring Issue featuring cover star Kacey Musgraves<\/a>:<\/strong><\/h4>\n
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