{"id":87964,"date":"2024-03-04T12:08:06","date_gmt":"2024-03-04T01:08:06","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/?post_type=articles&p=248570"},"modified":"2024-03-04T12:08:06","modified_gmt":"2024-03-04T01:08:06","slug":"pfw-vivienne-westwood-fw24","status":"publish","type":"articles","link":"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/us\/articles\/pfw-vivienne-westwood-fw24\/","title":{"rendered":"PFW: Andreas Kronthaler Blends Renaissance Seduction With Sportswear For Vivienne Westwood FW24"},"content":{"rendered":"
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PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 02: Lila Moss walks the runway during the Vivienne Westwood Womenswear Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 02, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Arnold Jerocki\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

If the invite for Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood\u2019s Fall\/Winter 2024 collection didn\u2019t discernibly read the word \u201cFrance ”, onlookers mightn’t have believed the folklorish presentation<\/a> was staged during the closing end of Paris Fashion Week.<\/a><\/p>\n

Vivienne Westwood\u2019s designs have never been tethered to a singular place. Instead, the late designer’s body of work has served as manifestos of histories, with epochs and ideals fused by rebellion and innovation. Such was the case for Kronthaler\u2019s third season alone at the label’s helm. Unmoored by the time and place of the collection, the luxuriate presented 43 looks inspired by 16th Century Italianate artistry<\/a>, pagan performances and a Lord Of The Rings<\/em>-esque punk fantasy<\/a>. (The latter you\u2019ve no doubt seen making the rounds as modelled by musician Sam Smith<\/a>.) Indeed, a renaissance fitting for the new era of Westwood\u2019s anthology.<\/p>\n

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PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 02: Sam Smith walks the runway during the Vivienne Westwood Womenswear Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 02, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Don\u2019t let the lack of Savile Row suiting fool you, the collection\u2019s title \u201cThe Tailor\u201d was a fitting epithet for a collection inspired by historical reconstructions. The work of Mannerism painter Giovanni Battista Moroni, specifically a portrait of an outfitter titled ‘Il Tagliapanni’, served as a jumping-off point for Kronthaler to examine the wares of the 1500s and the place they hold in both his and Westwood\u2019s own narrative. (The pair first mentioned this work in a collection designed in the early 90s.)<\/p>\n

To the tunes of Austrian performance troupe Sons of Sissy\u2014which included the drone of horns and slapping of their bodies in the form of campy bottom percussion\u2014Kronthaler expertly married antiquities and mediaeval garments with a forward-thinking attitude. Similar to how science fiction presents a view of the world so ahead it\u2019s almost a reflection of the past, Kronthaler evoked a futurism not rooted in nostalgia, like his contemporaries are doing, but an era so far removed from the now it\u2019s ripe to be revived.<\/p>\n

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PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 02: A model walks the runway during the Vivienne Westwood Womenswear Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 02, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The personal adornments of yore saturated the collection through sculptural breastplates, unbuttoned doublets (a type of men’s jacket displayed in Moroni\u2019s aforementioned artwork), chevalier boots, and soft draping often exhibited in Renaissance artworks. Jacopo Pontormo\u2019s ‘The Deposition from the Cross’, which Jonothan Anderson also referenced for Loewe\u2019s SS22 collection<\/a>, calls to mind in the subtle suspension of nylon jackets and turquoise lace. (The latter worn by Lila Moss<\/a>).<\/p>\n

Other references to historical dress came in voluminous sleeves reflective of the Tudor period, Mediaeval tights and calls to Westwood\u2019s Anglomania era<\/a> in Harris Tweed coats and towering tartan footwear. Yet, none so omnipresent as the codpiece. (The precursor to the jockstrap which was designed as a piece of cloth worn to protect\u2014and perhaps draw attention to\u2014men\u2019s genitalia).<\/p>\n

These pieces weren\u2019t overtly grotesque, but rather a tongue-in-cheek addition to the collection\u2019s vocabulary, especially when fashioned into bum bags and fanny packs. This idea of reiterating function through fashion\u2019s past also played into the athleisure that was present in the collection, especially when these antique designs mingled with modern sportswear like lycra bike shorts. Elsewhere, knitted sweaters nicked at the abs evoked a body-conscious jock uniform.<\/p>\n

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PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 02: A model walks the runway during the Vivienne Westwood Womenswear Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 02, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Ultimately, this collection was about looking to the past and recontextualising conventional norms with a sense of humour and controversy. \u201cAt one point the men really let it all hang out,\u201d Kronthaler said backstage, as reported by WWD<\/em>. Though the tastes of today have certainly evolved past these shrewd attitudes, Vivienne Westwood finds its strength in subverting standards and archetypes, both now and forever. Back to the future, we go.<\/p>\n

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PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 02:\u00a0 A model walks the runway during the Vivienne Westwood Womenswear Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 02, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 02: A model walks the runway during the Vivienne Westwood Womenswear Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 02, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 02: Models walk the runway during the Vivienne Westwood Womenswear Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 02, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 02:\u00a0 A model walks the runway during the Vivienne Westwood Womenswear Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 02, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 02:\u00a0 A model walks the runway during the Vivienne Westwood Womenswear Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 02, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 02:\u00a0 A model walks the runway during the Vivienne Westwood Womenswear Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 02, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 02:\u00a0 A model walks the runway during the Vivienne Westwood Womenswear Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 02, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 2:\u00a0 A model walks the runway during the Vivienne Westwood Womenswear Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 2, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Estrop\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 2:\u00a0 A model walks the runway during the Vivienne Westwood Womenswear Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 2, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Estrop\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 02: A model walks the runway during the Vivienne Westwood Womenswear Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 02, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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British model Lila Moss presents a creation by Vivienne Westwood for the Women Ready-to-wear Fall-Winter 2024\/2025 collection as part of the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris on March 2, 2024. (Photo by Geoffroy VAN DER HASSELT \/ AFP) (Photo by GEOFFROY VAN DER HASSELT\/AFP via Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 02:\u00a0 A model walks the runway during the Vivienne Westwood Womenswear Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 02, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 02: A model walks the runway during the Vivienne Westwood Womenswear Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 02, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 02:\u00a0 Sam Smith walks the runway during the Vivienne Westwood Womenswear Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 02, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 02: Amelia Gray Hamlin walks the runway during the Vivienne Westwood Womenswear Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 02, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 02: A model walks the runway during the Vivienne Westwood Womenswear Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 02, 2024 in Paris, France. 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