{"id":87956,"date":"2024-03-04T17:42:18","date_gmt":"2024-03-04T06:42:18","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/?post_type=articles&p=248648"},"modified":"2024-03-04T17:42:18","modified_gmt":"2024-03-04T06:42:18","slug":"pfw-mugler-fw24","status":"publish","type":"articles","link":"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/us\/articles\/pfw-mugler-fw24\/","title":{"rendered":"PFW: A Delicate Balance Of Performance And Poetry At Mugler"},"content":{"rendered":"
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PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 03: Irina Shayk walks the runway during the Mugler Womenswear Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week at Lycee Carnot on March 03, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Taylor Hill\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Where his contemporaries seek a quieter approach to luxury under the veil of \u2018stealth wealth\u2019, Casey Cadwallader has continued to cement Mugler\u2019s catwalk as a superfluous spectacle during the Fall\/Winter 2024 season of Paris Fashion Week.<\/p>\n

Theirry Mugler\u2014the enfant terrible<\/em>, grand couture and great showman behind the eponymous French fashion house\u2014was the master of spectacle. His performances, because dubbing his collection presentations as mere runway shows would be an insult to his legacy, were a parade unrivalled. Yet, when Zendaya<\/a> stepped onto the Dune 2 <\/em>red carpet<\/a> in the archival Mugler \u201cGynoid\u201d fembot robot suit from Fall\/Winter 1995<\/a>\u2014arguably the most legendary vintage fashion moment in history\u2014it was clear the fashion set piqued an appetite for pageantry.<\/p>\n

It wasn\u2019t the hour-long Vegas-style extravaganzas that Cadawaller emulated\u2014perhaps that level of drama<\/a> will be a reward for our patience\u2014but rather a more confident act of theatre<\/a> that proved we\u2019ve exited from the era of lycra cut-out bodysuits. (Though these will always have their place in popular culture, just relegated to Dua Lipa performances and the small screen of Real Housewives<\/em> confessionals.)<\/p>\n

Without an overreliance on sculpture, though the collection had no shortage of decisively shaped evening wear, the American designer unfolded his collection over three acts. Toying with the archetypes of silhouette and vignette, curtains dropped from centre stage to progressively unveil the new season offering. Models sauntered down a darkened room, spotlights illuminating the slinky collection as they stepped through dry ice to reach the media pit and posing for flashing lights.<\/p>\n

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PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 03:\u00a0 A model walks the runway during the Mugler Womenswear Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 03, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Marc Piasecki\/WireImage)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

This overcast reverence adhered to Cadwaller\u2019s methodology for the collection: \u201cI really want a more glamorous, dressed-up, decadent, textural creation.\u201d (As reported by VOGUE<\/em> Runway.) This meant that the body-conscious denim pieces and sporty jersey fabrics of the past were absent here in favour of a seductive, vamped-up approach to after-hours dressing.<\/p>\n

The collection opened with musing on revealing form, with layers of undress explored through sheer corsetry, moulded leather and garments designed to appear like they were melting off the models. Some were rendered in sumptuous velvet fabrics that acted like an invitation to come close to the form and explore the plush textile\u2013no doubt a deliberate homage to the debauchery that unfolds in the Parisian booths at haunts like Le Grand V\u00e9four.<\/p>\n

Next came a line of printed pieces designed in tandem with Canadian surrealist painter Ambera Wellmann. In asymmetrical skirts with satin trims and lacquered trousers, these pieces evoked a sort of Renaissance romanticism not typically exhibited in the brand. (And no, we\u2019re not excluding the instantly besotted Bee helmet and suit from Beyonc\u00e9\u2019s Renaissance tour.)<\/p>\n

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PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 03:\u00a0 A model walks the runway during the Mugler Womenswear Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 03, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

With draping, instinctual tiering and a suite of feathers, Cadawaller dared to achieve the fanfare realised by his precursor. \u201cI\u2019m interested in the ideals and goals of performance and transformation\u2013the idea of clothing that allows you to become a different version of yourself or one of the many versions of yourself that you like to inhabit,\u201d Cadawaller told GRAZIA of the bravado and artistry embedded in both his and Mugler\u2019s design methodology.<\/p>\n

\u201cIt\u2019s not just about how it feels for the audience to watch a good show, but instead about how the garments shape and provoke and inspire the person wearing them. Who they become when in them. It\u2019s really about the power of clothing, the impact of fashion.\u201d<\/p>\n

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PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 03:\u00a0 A model walks the runway during the Mugler Womenswear Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 03, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Marc Piasecki\/WireImage)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 03: A model walks the runway during the Mugler Womenswear Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 03, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 03: A model walks the runway during the Mugler Womenswear Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 03, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 03: Natasha Poly walks the runway during the Mugler Womenswear Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 03, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 03: A model walks the runway during the Mugler Womenswear Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 03, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 03: A model walks the runway during the Mugler Womenswear Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 03, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 03:\u00a0 A model walks the runway during the Mugler Womenswear Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 03, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 03:\u00a0 A model walks the runway during the Mugler Womenswear Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 03, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 03: A model walks the runway during the Mugler Womenswear Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 03, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 03: A model walks the runway during the Mugler Womenswear Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 03, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 03:\u00a0 Irina Shayk walks the runway during the Mugler Womenswear Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 03, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 03: A model walks the runway during the Mugler Womenswear Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 03, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 03: A model walks the runway during the Mugler Womenswear Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 03, 2024 in Paris, France. 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