{"id":87166,"date":"2024-02-20T10:30:22","date_gmt":"2024-02-19T23:30:22","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/?post_type=articles&p=247511"},"modified":"2024-02-20T01:31:18","modified_gmt":"2024-02-20T01:31:18","slug":"marquesalmeida-fw24","status":"publish","type":"articles","link":"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/us\/articles\/marquesalmeida-fw24\/","title":{"rendered":"LFW: Home Is Where The Heart Is For Marques\u2019Almeida"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Model on the runway at Marques’Almeida RTW Fall 2024 as part of London Ready to Wear Fashion Week held at The Truman Brewery on February 19, 2024, in London, England. (Photo by Giovanni Giannoni\/WWD via Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

It\u2019s often posited that London is the centre of its own universe. And for two respective weeks in February and September, colloquially known as London Fashion Week<\/a>, it is. In an abandoned brewery converted into a creative space on the proceeding\u2019s fifth day, an even more condensed microcosm was unveiled. Here, maximalist womenswear label Marques\u2019Almeida returned to the LFW schedule to stage their Fall\/Winter 2024 show. <\/span><\/p>\n

The Portuguese husband-wife design duo, Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida, delivered a sartorial procession that felt part homecoming and part renegade renaissance. After relocating to their hometown of Porto during the COVID-19 pandemic, the brand has once again placed their high-octane stamp on the city in the place it all began: East London. Not only was this a geographical homage to their burgeoning years, but an ode to their time in the pioneering emerging designer incubator Fashion East. (A decision that helped them take home the prestigious LVMH Prize in the award\u2019s sophomore year in 2015.)<\/span><\/p>\n

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Model on the runway at Marques’Almeida RTW Fall 2024 as part of London Ready to Wear Fashion Week held at The Truman Brewery on February 19, 2024, in London, England. (Photo by Giovanni Giannoni\/WWD via Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

As a result, the past, present and future collided in a clash of textures and tones against the backdrop of their first-ever runway show. Rather rebellious, the brand took a circular mode to unveil its new collection, tapping friends of the brand who had been there since the beginning to model the presentation. (These adherents are fondly known as \u201cM\u2019A girls\u201d and include i-D\u2019s<\/a> international editor, Frankie Dunn.) <\/span><\/p>\n

Given that upcycling<\/a> is a core part of the brand, it was only fitting that reworking the past<\/a> was included. But rather than this feel like a trite rehashing of tried-and-tested silhouettes, the brand expanded on its origins with unwavering certainty. This unfolded through traffic-stopping ombre denim skirts<\/a> with raw hems and asymmetrical edges. (Perhaps something Britany Spears<\/a> would\u2019ve worn to the 2001 American Music Awards after-party.)<\/span><\/p>\n

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Model on the runway at Marques’Almeida RTW Fall 2024 as part of London Ready to Wear Fashion Week held at The Truman Brewery on February 19, 2024, in London, England. (Photo by Giovanni Giannoni\/WWD via Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Metallics, one of the brand\u2019s hallmarks, emerged in liquid olive sets and a peachy aviator jacket lined with sumptuous shearling. Even floral jacquard fabrics\u2014which perhaps in any other context could seem matronly\u2014appeared like they were dipped in a liquid gloss. This sense of lamination continued across peplum-style vinyl outerwear and a series of satin gowns that protruded from the bodice. <\/span><\/p>\n

Marques\u2019 Almeida\u2019s return brought a sense of the unpolished maximalism Portuguese style has become revered for (and emulated) on social media<\/a>. But make no mistake, this collection doesn\u2019t pander to the trend cycle or TikTok algorithms. This was clear in the joy seen on the children\u2019s faces who walked hand-in-hand with some models on the runway. If we were to take a guess, this discernable jubilation was coming from a place of knowing these designs would soon be handed down to them. In converging the old and new, Marques\u2019 Almeida unleashed a cosmos of imagination. Will we see these pieces line the front row of their next show come September? Only time will tell.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Model on the runway at Marques’Almeida RTW Fall 2024 as part of London Ready to Wear Fashion Week held at The Truman Brewery on February 19, 2024, in London, England. (Photo by Giovanni Giannoni\/WWD via Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Model on the runway at Marques’Almeida RTW Fall 2024 as part of London Ready to Wear Fashion Week held at The Truman Brewery on February 19, 2024, in London, England. (Photo by Giovanni Giannoni\/WWD via Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Model on the runway at Marques’Almeida RTW Fall 2024 as part of London Ready to Wear Fashion Week held at The Truman Brewery on February 19, 2024, in London, England. (Photo by Giovanni Giannoni\/WWD via Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Model on the runway at Marques’Almeida RTW Fall 2024 as part of London Ready to Wear Fashion Week held at The Truman Brewery on February 19, 2024, in London, England. (Photo by Giovanni Giannoni\/WWD via Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Model on the runway at Marques’Almeida RTW Fall 2024 as part of London Ready to Wear Fashion Week held at The Truman Brewery on February 19, 2024, in London, England. (Photo by Giovanni Giannoni\/WWD via Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Model on the runway at Marques’Almeida RTW Fall 2024 as part of London Ready to Wear Fashion Week held at The Truman Brewery on February 19, 2024, in London, England. (Photo by Giovanni Giannoni\/WWD via Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Model on the runway at Marques’Almeida RTW Fall 2024 as part of London Ready to Wear Fashion Week held at The Truman Brewery on February 19, 2024, in London, England. (Photo by Giovanni Giannoni\/WWD via Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Model on the runway at Marques’Almeida RTW Fall 2024 as part of London Ready to Wear Fashion Week held at The Truman Brewery on February 19, 2024, in London, England. (Photo by Giovanni Giannoni\/WWD via Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Model on the runway at Marques’Almeida RTW Fall 2024 as part of London Ready to Wear Fashion Week held at The Truman Brewery on February 19, 2024, in London, England. (Photo by Giovanni Giannoni\/WWD via Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Model on the runway at Marques’Almeida RTW Fall 2024 as part of London Ready to Wear Fashion Week held at The Truman Brewery on February 19, 2024, in London, England. (Photo by Giovanni Giannoni\/WWD via Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Model on the runway at Marques’Almeida RTW Fall 2024 as part of London Ready to Wear Fashion Week held at The Truman Brewery on February 19, 2024, in London, England. (Photo by Giovanni Giannoni\/WWD via Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Model on the runway at Marques’Almeida RTW Fall 2024 as part of London Ready to Wear Fashion Week held at The Truman Brewery on February 19, 2024, in London, England. 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