{"id":86987,"date":"2024-02-12T18:16:04","date_gmt":"2024-02-12T07:16:04","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/?post_type=articles&p=246991"},"modified":"2024-02-15T03:53:50","modified_gmt":"2024-02-15T03:53:50","slug":"nyfw-ludovic-de-saint-sernin-fw24","status":"publish","type":"articles","link":"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/us\/articles\/nyfw-ludovic-de-saint-sernin-fw24\/","title":{"rendered":"NYFW: Ludovic De Saint Sernin\u2019s Debut"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"Ludovic-De-Saint-Sernin\"
NEW YORK, NEW YORK – FEBRUARY 11: A model walks the runway at the Ludovic De Saint Sernin fashion show during New York Fashion Week: The Shows at Starrett-Lehigh Building on February 11, 2024 in New York City. (Photo by Arturo Holmes\/Getty Images for NYFW: The Shows)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\u201cWelcome To Fear City\u201d was the lede of a newspaper pamphlet titled \u2018A Survival Guide for Visitors to New York City<\/a>\u2019. It was distributed to intrepid travellers touring the island of Manhattan in the 70s\u2014a time when the boroughs were overrun by organised crime and leaving any neighbourhood outside of Midtown was strictly frowned upon.<\/p>\n

It was also a time when one stalwart photographer was disrupting the norm with his distinct black-and-white tone and penchant for shooting erotic subject matter. His name was Robert Mapplethorpe. You might have heard of him. You might be familiar with his body of work\u2014in all its transgressive and intimate carnal glory. You might even know his quotidian rhythms as documented in Patti Smith\u2019s 2010 memoir Just Kids<\/em>. French designer Ludovic De Saint Sernin is one such adherent, and for his debut New York Fashion Week collection, the Parisian creative drew inspiration from the late iconoclast\u2019s body of work. \u201cI relate to him on both a personal and artistic level, so this is kind of a pinnacle,\u201d he said backstage of his collaboration with the Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation.<\/p>\n

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NEW YORK, NEW YORK – FEBRUARY 11: A model walks the runway at the Ludovic De Saint Sernin fashion show during New York Fashion Week: The Shows at Starrett-Lehigh Building on February 11, 2024 in New York City. (Photo by Arturo Holmes\/Getty Images for NYFW: The Shows)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Paralleling Mapplethorpe\u2019s own fixation with form, de Saint Sernin<\/a> created sartorial codes for the context in which the photographer operated in and the motifs he shot\u2014both examining of BDSM subculture in New York\u2019s underground queer and kink scenes and the phallic seductiveness of unfurling flowers. Given de Sernin\u2019s designs are like stimulants for party girls (and gays), it\u2019s only fitting the 37-piece collection focused on the body. In some instances, it was revealed through apron-style crepe silk shirts and mesh skirts emblazoned with screen prints of Mapplethorpe\u2019s most recognisable silhouettes. (The latter was a look worn by burgeoning Australian supermodel Angelina Kendall with only a black bralette and a glint of \u2018up to no good\u2019 disobedience.)<\/p>\n

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A model presents a creation by Ludovic de Saint-Sernin during New York Fashion Week on February 11, 2024, in New York. (Photo by Charly TRIBALLEAU \/ AFP) (Photo by CHARLY TRIBALLEAU\/AFP via Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Elsewhere, chainmail dresses worn by the one custom designed for Olivia Rodrigo at the recent MTV VMAs were crafted into various shapes to show off the decolletage. Menswear and womenswear were cohesively presented in a cocktail of raucousness and sensuality, cumulating with a panoply of leather held together by studded eyelets and cross ties. Even gimp masks found their way onto the runway for the penultimate looks\u2014but given this is a collection inspired by Mapplethorpe\u2019s work there was a surprising lack of chains and ropes. These erotic elements not only excited Rihanna, Mapplethorpe and de Saint Sernin, but the upper echelon of New York\u2019s set, too, with Marc Jacobs and Jenna Lyon\u2019s skipping the Super Bowl in favour of his 8PM time slot. This is how a Frenchman should do New York Fashion Week.<\/p>\n

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NEW YORK, NEW YORK – FEBRUARY 11: A model walks the runway at the Ludovic De Saint Sernin fashion show during New York Fashion Week: The Shows at Starrett-Lehigh Building on February 11, 2024 in New York City. (Photo by Arturo Holmes\/Getty Images for NYFW: The Shows)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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NEW YORK, NEW YORK – FEBRUARY 11: A model walks the runway at the Ludovic De Saint Sernin fashion show during New York Fashion Week: The Shows at Starrett-Lehigh Building on February 11, 2024 in New York City. (Photo by Arturo Holmes\/Getty Images for NYFW: The Shows)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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NEW YORK, NEW YORK – FEBRUARY 11: A model walks the runway at the Ludovic De Saint Sernin fashion show during New York Fashion Week: The Shows at Starrett-Lehigh Building on February 11, 2024 in New York City. (Photo by Arturo Holmes\/Getty Images for NYFW: The Shows)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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NEW YORK, NEW YORK – FEBRUARY 11: Models walk the runway at the Ludovic De Saint Sernin fashion show during New York Fashion Week: The Shows at Starrett-Lehigh Building on February 11, 2024, in New York City. (Photo by Arturo Holmes\/Getty Images for NYFW: The Shows)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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A model presents a creation by Ludovic de Saint-Sernin during New York Fashion Week in New York on February 11, 2024. (Photo by Charly TRIBALLEAU \/ AFP) (Photo by CHARLY TRIBALLEAU\/AFP via Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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A model presents a creation by Ludovic de Saint-Sernin during New York Fashion Week on February 11, 2024, in New York. (Photo by Charly TRIBALLEAU \/ AFP) (Photo by CHARLY TRIBALLEAU\/AFP via Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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NEW YORK, NEW YORK – FEBRUARY 11: A model walks the runway at the Ludovic De Saint Sernin fashion show during New York Fashion Week: The Shows at Starrett-Lehigh Building on February 11, 2024 in New York City. (Photo by Arturo Holmes\/Getty Images for NYFW: The Shows)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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NEW YORK, NEW YORK – FEBRUARY 11: A model walks the runway at the Ludovic De Saint Sernin fashion show during New York Fashion Week: The Shows at Starrett-Lehigh Building on February 11, 2024 in New York City. (Photo by Arturo Holmes\/Getty Images for NYFW: The Shows)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"author":42674,"featured_media":86988,"template":"","format":"standard","categories":[17,16],"yoast_head":"\nNYFW: Inside Ludovic De Saint Sernin's Debut Show<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"French designer Ludovic De Saint Sernin has presented his first collection for New York Fashion Week. 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