{"id":81702,"date":"2023-09-30T08:42:34","date_gmt":"2023-09-29T22:42:34","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/?post_type=articles&p=240645"},"modified":"2023-10-03T08:14:26","modified_gmt":"2023-10-03T08:14:26","slug":"schiaparelli-spring-summer-2024-show","status":"publish","type":"articles","link":"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/us\/articles\/schiaparelli-spring-summer-2024-show\/","title":{"rendered":"PFW: The Lobster Returns For Schiaparelli Spring\/Summer 2024"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"schiaparelli-spring-summer-2024\"
PARIS, FRANCE – SEPTEMBER 28:\u00a0 A model walks the runway during the Schiaparelli Womenswear Spring\/Summer 2024 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on September 28, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Estrop\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Since Elsa Schiaparelli hit the fashion scene almost a century ago, the maison has held a distinct role in bringing life to surrealism and surrealism to life. Now in the proficient hands of Daniel Roseberry<\/a>, the house of Schiaparelli is now one of the highlights of every fashion month calendar, with the American designer building a punchy and whimsical identity for the brand’s ready-to-wear<\/a> offerings. Not only does Roseberry’s reverence for Schiaparelli sing in each collection, but his ability to push her “madness” forward has turned a generation of new fans onto the legacy of his predecessor. And with Spring\/Summer 2024, he continues this assignment with just as much gaiety and skill as we’ve come to expect.<\/p>\n

At the H\u00f4tel de Boisgelin, an Italian embassy on Paris\u2019s Rue de Varenne, Shalom Harlow<\/a> opened in a structural blazer dress with measuring tape embroidery down one side of the neckline. The venue may have been a nod to the founder’s roots, but even if not, there was plenty of Elsa<\/a> in the madcap ideas Roseberry brought to the runway.<\/p>\n

The body once again featured as the ultimate muse, with anatomical ribcages teased on a two-piece knit set giving a whole new meaning to ‘ribbed knits’. Anatomical toes returned this season in sneakers and satin ballet pumps or a youthful edge, while eyes and ear pieces showed up sporadically, too. Gilded nipples on a red mini were an exercise in subtlety, while a feather-light black leather one-piece traced a skeletal figure.<\/p>\n

As many might know, Elsa Schiaparelli created a dress featuring a Salvador Dal\u00ed-painted lobster<\/a> that was famously worn by the Duchess of Windsor\u2014its suggestiveness causing quite a stir in 1930s England. Though Roseberry once thought it too obvious as a reference to touch, he now proudly boasts crustacean totems with a three-dimensional canvas lobster placed on the front of an ivory skirt, giant gold lobsters and crabs hanging from necks, and as a stretch, the fish motifs. It’s even in the bright blood orange that peppers the collection.<\/p>\n

Towards the end, a dress of chaotic genius makes its way down the runway. Redolent of the communal table at a bustling soiree, a figure-hugging canvas gown is affixed with loose cigarettes, nail polish spilling out to spell out ‘Schiaparelli’ and jewels strewn across the surface alongside a zippo lighter.<\/p>\n

Nowhere do we see ready-to-wear receive such high-concept treatment, but that’s not to mislabel these clothes as overindulgent. Instead, the purity of Roseberry’s creativity is vividly laid out for us, and for a moment, we’re compelled to question why the magic of couture can’t spill over into the everyday. After all, couldn’t we all use a bit of this madness in the humdrum of life?<\/p>\n

\"\" \"schiaparelli-spring-summer-2024\" \"schiaparelli-spring-summer-2024\" \"\" \"schiaparelli-spring-summer-2024\" \"schiaparelli-spring-summer-2024\" \"\" \"schiaparelli-spring-summer-2024\" \"schiaparelli-spring-summer-2024\" \"\" \"schiaparelli-spring-summer-2024\" \"schiaparelli-spring-summer-2024\" \"\" \"schiaparelli-spring-summer-2024\" \"schiaparelli-spring-summer-2024\"<\/p>\n

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