{"id":72253,"date":"2023-02-27T12:15:18","date_gmt":"2023-02-27T12:15:18","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/?post_type=articles&p=228309"},"modified":"2023-02-27T14:52:56","modified_gmt":"2023-02-27T14:52:56","slug":"mfw-gucci-goes-to-the-archives-for-fall-winter-23","status":"publish","type":"articles","link":"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/us\/articles\/mfw-gucci-goes-to-the-archives-for-fall-winter-23\/","title":{"rendered":"MFW: Gucci Goes to the Archives for Fall\/Winter 23"},"content":{"rendered":"
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MILAN, ITALY \u2013 FEBRUARY 24: A model walks the runway during the Gucci Ready to Wear Fall\/Winter 2023-2024 fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on February 24, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE\/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Though the cries from Alessandro Michele<\/a> devotees can \\be still heard, after his departure in November last year, at Gucci HQ the show had to go on. Incoming creative director Sabato de Sarno<\/a> is due to begin with the Spring 2024 collection in September and until then remains on the books at Valentino. So, for Fall\/Winter 2023 we were delivered an in-betweener, one created by the team of Michele\u2019s tenure.<\/p>\n

It was homage-like in the sense that it stayed true to Michele\u2019s vintage aesthetic, pieces eclectic and jarring, however it didn\u2019t fall into a particular pocket of narrative or emotion that Michle\u2019s collections always did. Throughout, there were moments of ’90s rave-club, moments of a feather-coated Margot Tenenbaum and even moments of (I guess ironic) classicism with the use of side-hooped pannier skirts. It also included at least two Slimane-esque ensembles dedicated to pre-millenia jeans worn with a white shirt and and oversized jacket.<\/p>\n

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MILAN, ITALY – FEBRUARY 24: A model walks the runway during the Gucci Ready to Wear Fall\/Winter 2023-2024 fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on February 24, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE\/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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MILAN, ITALY – FEBRUARY 24: A model walks the runway during the Gucci Ready to Wear Fall\/Winter 2023-2024 fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on February 24, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE\/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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MILAN, ITALY – FEBRUARY 24: A model walks the runway during the Gucci Ready to Wear Fall\/Winter 2023-2024 fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on February 24, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE\/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The midi skirts worn with mesh tube tops and lilac stockings as well as the long, double-breasted blazers worn over split-ankle trousers were all familiar looks from previous collections, as were the plentiful bralettes and the unsparing use of fluffy Yeti shoes. Evening wear was a dip into fashion era archives, but it didn\u2019t pick just one. A ping-ponging timeline from romanticism to flapper to ’80s prom made finding cohesion all the more difficult. Bags were bigger, more practical and there was a distinct featuring of GG insignia leather belts that, when hot, are unstoppably popular. Novelty mohair and faux-fur coats in shades of Cookie Monster again saluted Michele, its ilk probably due to be big sellers this winter season.<\/p>\n

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MILAN, ITALY – FEBRUARY 24: A model walks the runway during the Gucci Ready to Wear Fall\/Winter 2023-2024 fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on February 24, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE\/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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MILAN, ITALY – FEBRUARY 24: A model walks the runway during the Gucci Ready to Wear Fall\/Winter 2023-2024 fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on February 24, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE\/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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MILAN, ITALY – FEBRUARY 24: A model walks the runway during the Gucci Ready to Wear Fall\/Winter 2023-2024 fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on February 24, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE\/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

There has been a lot of talk about the return to wearability this season. That collections have been less of an artistic spectacle and more a latest in nice clothes. Perhaps this has to do with the bottom line, or perhaps it\u2019s a just trend like anything else \u2014 a kind of ironic-irony where a return to basics in itself becomes anti-basic. It\u2019s hard to keep up.<\/p>\n

However, it’s unlikely Gucci was intentionally deviating towards practicality. Perhaps this was more a case of keeping it all together until the next leader arrives. It will be interesting to see where de Sarno takes the label, a few steps back from Michele\u2019s archival patchwork style might be just what the doctor ordered. An order for a new time, a new artist, a new look. We\u2019re ready.<\/p>\n

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MILAN, ITALY – FEBRUARY 24: A model walks the runway during the Gucci Ready to Wear Fall\/Winter 2023-2024 fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on February 24, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE\/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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MILAN, ITALY – FEBRUARY 24: Julia Nobis walks the runway during the Gucci Ready to Wear Fall\/Winter 2023-2024 fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on February 24, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE\/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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MILAN, ITALY – FEBRUARY 24: A model walks the runway during the Gucci Ready to Wear Fall\/Winter 2023-2024 fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on February 24, 2023 in Milan, Italy. 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