{"id":36319,"date":"2021-09-27T03:11:35","date_gmt":"2021-09-26T17:11:35","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/?post_type=articles&p=201792"},"modified":"2021-09-27T08:23:17","modified_gmt":"2021-09-27T08:23:17","slug":"salvatore-ferragamo-spring-summer-22","status":"publish","type":"articles","link":"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/us\/articles\/salvatore-ferragamo-spring-summer-22\/","title":{"rendered":"Salvatore Ferragamo Raid The Archives For Spring\/Summer 2022"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"Salvatore
MILAN, ITALY – SEPTEMBER 25: A model walks the runway at the Salvatore Ferragamo fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week – Spring \/ Summer 2022 on September 25, 2021 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Pietro S. D’Aprano\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

It was a slightly unlucky season for Salvatore Ferragamo<\/a> to return to the runway after an 18-month absence, if only because the brand will be so much better placed for a grand re-entry to Milan Fashion Week in another six months’ time. The brand is currently undergoing a major structural transition. They\u2019re still awaiting the arrival of their new CEO Marco Gobbetti, who will remain in his role as CEO of Burberry until the end of the year, and are currently relying on an in-house team to design womenswear collections following the exit of Paul Andrew in April. Speculation is rife as to who Gobbetti will appoint as creative director once he begins the role. Some have suggested Riccardo Tisci, who he has worked with successively at Givenchy and Burberry, but the final decision remains to be seen.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

All of which is to say that Spring\/Summer 2022 was always going to be one of those ‘in-between’ collections\u2014a pre-cursor to the main event. Guillame Meilland, Ferragamo\u2019s design director of menswear, was tasked with crafting SS22, his first womenswear outing for the brand. It\u2019s an intimidating task for any designer\u2014the rules of womenswear and menswear are markedly different\u2014and so Meilland dove into the brand’s extensive archive for inspiration. He sourced one of the brand\u2019s vintage floral prints, which was blown up and embroidered onto an oversized silk shirt, and referenced \u201870s era scarves printed with tiger stripe and poppy motifs.<\/span><\/p>\n

Meilland also drew on the 1977 Luis Bu\u00f1uel film <\/span>That Obscure Object of Desire<\/span><\/i>\u2014which sees Carole Bouquet and \u00c0ngela Molina play the same role\u2014for inspiration, citing the film\u2019s exploration of fragmented personal identity. The clothes themselves were safe but well-crafted: soft cotton day apron dresses, structured leather coats, ribbed jersey sets. Draped evening dresses with seductive cut-outs were eye-grabbing, as was a fresh color palette\u2014mustards, tans, sky blues, and limoncello yellows\u2014that felt decidedly Italian. It wasn\u2019t a collection that presented a strong, post-Paul Andrew visual identity for Ferragamo going forward, but then it was never intended to. The arrival of Gobbetti is likely to initiate a flurry of changes, all of which we’ll be earnestly tuning into. But until then, it’s always a pleasure to see Ferragamo’s distinctive brand of easy Italian glamour up close.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Salvatore
MILAN, ITALY – SEPTEMBER 25: A model walks the runway at the Salvatore Ferragamo fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week – Spring \/ Summer 2022 on September 25, 2021 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Daniele Venturelli\/WireImage)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Salvatore
MILAN, ITALY – SEPTEMBER 25: A model walks the runway at the Salvatore Ferragamo fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week – Spring \/ Summer 2022 on September 25, 2021 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Daniele Venturelli\/WireImage)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Salvatore
MILAN, ITALY – SEPTEMBER 25: A model walks the runway at the Salvatore Ferragamo fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week – Spring \/ Summer 2022 on September 25, 2021 in Milan, Italy. 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