{"id":35664,"date":"2021-09-21T06:01:57","date_gmt":"2021-09-21T06:01:57","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/?post_type=articles&p=201307"},"modified":"2021-09-21T18:34:18","modified_gmt":"2021-09-21T18:34:18","slug":"emilia-wickstead-spring-summer-22","status":"publish","type":"articles","link":"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/us\/articles\/emilia-wickstead-spring-summer-22\/","title":{"rendered":"Emilia Wickstead Gives French New Wave A Modern Twist"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"Emilia
Image: Edd Horder; Courtesy of Emilia Wickstead<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Emilia Wickstead<\/a> is a highly referential designer, her collections are often inspired by obscure or lesser-known references from the worlds of art and cinema. For Spring\/Summer 2022<\/a>, that reference was <\/span>Last Year at Marienbad<\/span><\/i>, the 1961 French New Wave film directed by Alain Resnais. Filmed in Cinemascope and lit with moody black and white chiaroscuro lighting, <\/span>Last Year at Marienbad<\/span><\/i> is a tale of romance, seduction and betrayal, where the enigmatic \u2018X\u2019 becomes convinced he has had a love affair with the enthralling \u2018A\u2019 (played by Delphine Seyrig) who claims she cannot remember him. <\/span><\/p>\n

Wickstead wanted to explore the film\u2019s themes for SS22, dubbing the collection \u201ca melding of old-world and modern proportions”. But <\/span>French New Wave cinema also inspired the medium through which she unveiled the collection. Rather than return to the traditional London Fashion Week runway, Wickstead chose to reveal her latest season <\/span>via a short film<\/span><\/a> situated in the gardens of the Badminton Estate in Gloucestershire, shot by filmmaker Robin Mellor in a way that evokes the surrealism and sense of compelling unease that made <\/span>Marienbad<\/span><\/i> a classic of its genre. The film\u2019s influence even extended to the hair and makeup\u2014models rocked a \u201860s-style coiffed updo and heavy black eyeliner, inspired by Seybrig\u2019s look in the original film.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

As for the fashion, it was \u201860s nostalgia done right. Wickstead is far too clever a designer to get overly-bogged down in her references, which meant her nods to <\/span>Marienbad<\/span><\/i> felt subtle and fresh. Tailored trousers were finished in a creamy textured jacquard, androgynous shirting made of raw cotton was paired with large, oversized shawls, diaphanous skirts were balanced with sleek jersey knits, reminiscent of one-piece swimsuits. Then there were the low-slung pencil skirts\u2014Wickstead noted that the collection celebrated the waist as \u201can erogenous zone\u201d\u2014worn with super-cropped shirting, knits, and shrunken jackets. The stand-out looks featured blood orange and blue prints that were hand-painted in Wickstead\u2019s atelier, featuring motifs of birds and fish. As we patiently await our next summer holiday, we already know precisely what we\u2019ll be wearing. <\/span><\/p>\n

\"Emilia
Image: Edd Horder; Courtesy of Emilia Wickstead<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Emilia
Image: Edd Horder; Courtesy of Emilia Wickstead<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Emilia
Image: Edd Horder; Courtesy of Emilia Wickstead<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"author":26240,"featured_media":35665,"template":"","format":"standard","categories":[17,16],"yoast_head":"\nEmilia Wickstead Gives French New Wave A Modern Twist<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"The New Zealand born, London-based designer Emilia Wickstead gave French New Wave a modern twist for her brand's spring summer '22 collection, which was inspired by the cult 1961 film 'Last Year at Marienbad'.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/us\/articles\/emilia-wickstead-spring-summer-22\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Emilia Wickstead Gives French New Wave A Modern Twist\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" 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