{"id":1394,"date":"2020-03-27T16:06:35","date_gmt":"2020-03-27T05:06:35","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/?post_type=articles&p=170546"},"modified":"2020-12-03T00:57:51","modified_gmt":"2020-12-03T00:57:51","slug":"the-world-according-to-thomas-de-kluyver","status":"publish","type":"articles","link":"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/us\/articles\/the-world-according-to-thomas-de-kluyver\/","title":{"rendered":"The World According To Thomas De Kluyver"},"content":{"rendered":"

GRAZIA<\/em> talks to Thomas de Kluyver, Global Makeup Artist at Gucci Beauty<\/strong><\/p>\n

There\u2019s not really any knowing what lies ahead. It\u2019s a new decade and there\u2019s a new mood. New thought patterns, new waves of expression, new guards and new norms. Beauty is one such industry that\u2019s driven by this newness, be it behaviors, technology, consumer habits or trends.<\/p>\n

Over the past ten years, beauty has been picked apart and stitched back together, emerging a more democratic, transparent and innovative version of itself. Some will say there\u2019s still work to be done (and they would be right), but there\u2019s no doubt the industry as it exists is in a constant state of flux. It ebbs and flows, peaks and troughs. But the one constant in all the chaos is a bold, unwavering, intrepid force of creativity. Society often codifies beauty as superfluous or vapid, but when you get to the crux of it, it\u2019s a platform for art, for expression and for creation.<\/p>\n

When it comes to dissecting this creativity, it\u2019s only through the far-reaching lens of certain visionaries that we might get a glimpse into the other side, both behind the scenes and beyond the present moment. Here, GRAZIA<\/em> explores future beauty through the eyes of one of the best: Thomas de Kluyver.<\/p>\n

\"\"
A custom face chart by Thomas de Kluyver for GRAZIA<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Products used: Gucci Rouge \u00e0 L\u00e8vres Satin in Kimberley Rose<\/a> (On Lips, Cheeks And Eye Lids), L\u2019OBSCUR MASCARA<\/a> (On Lashes).\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cBeauty for me is one of the most efficient and authentic ways of communicating with people,\u201d Thomas de Kluyver<\/a> tells GRAZIA<\/em>. \u201cWe resonate with faces so quickly and makeup is so accessible to work with. It really lends itself to experimentation, even more so than fashion in a way that there\u2019s not such a financial constraint to it.\u201d The Perth-born wunderkind is the Global Makeup Artist at Gucci Beauty<\/a> \u2013 a match made in Gucci\u2019s eccentric, ugly-beautiful version of heaven.<\/p>\n

From humble beginnings on Australia\u2019s West Coast, de Kluyver is now part of a new artistic wave redefining what it means \u2013 and what it is \u2013 to be creative. His portfolio is one that showcases the garish, imaginative best beauty has to offer: lurid color palettes, trenchant detail, lucid shapes and defiance toward convention. It might be a bubblegum blue and red-rimmed eye, lipstick-heavy looks, shocking pink blush washed high atop the cheekbone, a slick cherry lip just a little askew around the edges. But that\u2019s the thing with de Kluyver\u2019s work: when you see it, you know it belongs to him.<\/p>\n

It\u2019s this innate ability to refute expectations that saw his work with newly-minted Gucci Beauty \u2013 the subversion of what it means to be a glossy makeup luxuriate \u2013 one of the most poignant makeup-led moments of the past decade. \u201cWorking on my first Gucci fashion show was really special. Alessandro [Michele] is so inspiring and creative. He absolutely loves makeup and has such an incredible knowledge and insight about it,\u201d says de Kluyver. The brand\u2019s campaign<\/a> (ideated by Creative Director Alessandro Michele and art direction by Christopher Simmonds) for the initial lipstick launch was a brilliant display of where makeup is heading (or perhaps what it should always be). Rather than perfect veneers and immaculate skin, de Kluyver\u2019s work was a mash-up of toothy grins and textured lipstick. It was a wider nod to the fact that beauty is moving away from perfect ideals. \u201cBeauty feels so much more inclusive and experimental now. I think people really are starting to feel much more free with makeup and less afraid to try out new ideas and techniques,\u201d de Kluyver says.<\/p>\n

With such progression, it\u2019s a wonder where the industry-shifting ideas come from. De Kluyver\u2019s creative process is an interesting one, often involving references from past decades such as the 80s and early 90s. \u201cMy team and I spend a lot of our time researching, going over old fashion and art books, magazine archives, going to exhibitions and collecting lots of references,\u201d he explains, before adding, \u201cI gather everything and draw out my new ideas in sketchbooks that I refer back to over and over again.\u201d<\/p>\n

It almost feels like de Kluyver is writing the blueprint of future beauty in real time: a version of beauty that celebrates individuality, refutes outdated notions and pays tribute to its underlying purpose as a means for expression. \u201cStorytelling and identity are becoming ever more present in people\u2019s lives,\u201d he explains. \u201cBeing a makeup artist and creative is a chance to tell these stories.\u201d His gritty, decorative, dare-to-see-what-I-see ethos is encouragement for the rest of us to go as bold as we dare, to celebrate uneven shapes, asymmetry and a wide color spectrum. De Kluyver, and Gucci more broadly, are forging a path in beauty that\u2019s unique to the industry and rich in speculation. One that kind of begs the question, what will Gucci do next?<\/p>\n

The world got a teeny glimpse at Gucci\u2019s Fall 2020 show in Milan this year, where Michele opened up the chaos of backstage to the style set. Inside the Gucci Hub, models got ready in plain sight, surrounded by fold-out chairs, robes and the mess synonymous with back of house. The fly-on-the-wall experience, where de Kluyver painted melancholy tears and lavender eyelids, was perfectly Gucci: the realities of life through a high fashion lens.<\/p>\n

As for gazing forward, de Kluyver is pretty practical in terms of what we can expect to see in decades to come. \u201cNothing is stopping you using products however you like,\u201d he says. \u201cPeople expect and deserve a lot more in terms of diversity, innovation, color range, quality and campaigns that speak to them and make them feel inspired. I think this is actually a huge part of Gucci\u2019s initial success.\u201d An educated guess is we can expect more creativity, more storytelling, more quirk and more fun. De Kluyver\u2019s whole thing after all is not taking it all too seriously. \u201cI always say not to be afraid to try something out when it comes to makeup, because you can just take it off and start again.\u201d Ain\u2019t that the truth.<\/p>\n

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