{"id":1028,"date":"2020-05-14T11:56:46","date_gmt":"2020-05-14T01:56:46","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/?post_type=articles&#038;p=172709"},"modified":"2020-11-16T02:05:19","modified_gmt":"2020-11-16T02:05:19","slug":"is-the-fashion-calendar-redundant","status":"publish","type":"articles","link":"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/us\/articles\/is-the-fashion-calendar-redundant\/","title":{"rendered":"Is The Fashion Calendar Redundant? Dries Van Noten Thinks So"},"content":{"rendered":"<figure id=\"attachment_172719\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-172719\" style=\"width: 1024px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-172719\" src=\"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/05\/GettyImages-1217681485.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1024\" height=\"646\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-172719\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">PARIS, FRANCE &#8211; MARCH 03: Model Cosima Fritz is surrounded by photographers after the Chanel show during Paris Fashion Week Fall\/Winter 2020 on March 03, 2020 in Paris, France. (Photo by Melodie Jeng\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>The fashion landscape has been in a state of flux for the last 18 months, subject to the push\/pull of old systems up against new ones. But no factor has been quite so monumental as COVID-19, a global health pandemic that has essentially brought the multi-billion dollar industry to its knees.<\/p>\n<p>In essence, it&#8217;s been dire &#8211; jobs have been lost and entire empires have collapsed. But it&#8217;s also proved itself as the eye of a sartorial storm. A moment whereby those in the thick of it (designers, creatives and commentators) have had time to pause and <em>really<\/em> consider the workings of the fashion machine. One such issue is the concept of seasons &#8211; or the fashion calendar &#8211; and discounting schedules. The constant commercial vortex of season-show-sale that threatens not only creativity but the planet, as we&#8217;ve come to learn in recent years.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_172720\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-172720\" style=\"width: 1024px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-172720\" src=\"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/05\/GettyImages-1217682087.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1536\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-172720\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">PARIS, FRANCE &#8211; MARCH 03: Model Qin Lei wears a red coat, black pants, and black combat boots after the LaCoste show during Paris Fashion Week Fall\/Winter 2020 on March 03, 2020 in Paris, France. (Photo by Melodie Jeng\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>In a report by <a href=\"https:\/\/www.businessoffashion.com\/articles\/professional\/dries-van-noten-proposes-reset-to-fashions-deliveries-and-discounting-calendar\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"><em>Business of Fashion<\/em><\/a>, designers have spoken up, signing <a href=\"https:\/\/forumletter.org\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">an open letter<\/a> seeking to reformat the industry\u2019s approach to fashion deliverables and the discounting calendar. Lead by Belgium native Dries Van Noten, the open letter begins with the following sentiment: <em>&#8220;We agreed that the current environment although challenging, presents an opportunity for a fundamental and welcome change that will simplify our businesses.&#8221;<\/em> The following points are succinct, proposing that both Autumn\/Winter and Spring\/Summer 2020 are pushed back to their actual respective seasons, and that discounting schedules are slowed to allow for more full price selling. It&#8217;s also noted that less product, travel and fabric be used, as well as reconsidering show formats with sustainability in mind.<\/p>\n<blockquote class=\"instagram-media\" data-instgrm-captioned data-instgrm-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/p\/CAF7Vsejnlh\/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading\" data-instgrm-version=\"13\" style=\" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:500px; min-width:326px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);\">\n<div style=\"padding:16px;\"> <a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/p\/CAF7Vsejnlh\/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading\" style=\" background:#FFFFFF; line-height:0; padding:0 0; text-align:center; text-decoration:none; width:100%;\" target=\"_blank\"> <\/p>\n<div style=\" display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;\">\n<div style=\"background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;\">\n<div style=\" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 100px;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 60px;\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div style=\"padding: 19% 0;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"display:block; height:50px; margin:0 auto 12px; width:50px;\"><svg width=\"50px\" height=\"50px\" viewBox=\"0 0 60 60\" version=\"1.1\" xmlns=\"https:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\" xmlns:xlink=\"https:\/\/www.w3.org\/1999\/xlink\"><g stroke=\"none\" stroke-width=\"1\" fill=\"none\" fill-rule=\"evenodd\"><g transform=\"translate(-511.000000, -20.000000)\" fill=\"#000000\"><g><path d=\"M556.869,30.41 C554.814,30.41 553.148,32.076 553.148,34.131 C553.148,36.186 554.814,37.852 556.869,37.852 C558.924,37.852 560.59,36.186 560.59,34.131 C560.59,32.076 558.924,30.41 556.869,30.41 M541,60.657 C535.114,60.657 530.342,55.887 530.342,50 C530.342,44.114 535.114,39.342 541,39.342 C546.887,39.342 551.658,44.114 551.658,50 C551.658,55.887 546.887,60.657 541,60.657 M541,33.886 C532.1,33.886 524.886,41.1 524.886,50 C524.886,58.899 532.1,66.113 541,66.113 C549.9,66.113 557.115,58.899 557.115,50 C557.115,41.1 549.9,33.886 541,33.886 M565.378,62.101 C565.244,65.022 564.756,66.606 564.346,67.663 C563.803,69.06 563.154,70.057 562.106,71.106 C561.058,72.155 560.06,72.803 558.662,73.347 C557.607,73.757 556.021,74.244 553.102,74.378 C549.944,74.521 548.997,74.552 541,74.552 C533.003,74.552 532.056,74.521 528.898,74.378 C525.979,74.244 524.393,73.757 523.338,73.347 C521.94,72.803 520.942,72.155 519.894,71.106 C518.846,70.057 518.197,69.06 517.654,67.663 C517.244,66.606 516.755,65.022 516.623,62.101 C516.479,58.943 516.448,57.996 516.448,50 C516.448,42.003 516.479,41.056 516.623,37.899 C516.755,34.978 517.244,33.391 517.654,32.338 C518.197,30.938 518.846,29.942 519.894,28.894 C520.942,27.846 521.94,27.196 523.338,26.654 C524.393,26.244 525.979,25.756 528.898,25.623 C532.057,25.479 533.004,25.448 541,25.448 C548.997,25.448 549.943,25.479 553.102,25.623 C556.021,25.756 557.607,26.244 558.662,26.654 C560.06,27.196 561.058,27.846 562.106,28.894 C563.154,29.942 563.803,30.938 564.346,32.338 C564.756,33.391 565.244,34.978 565.378,37.899 C565.522,41.056 565.552,42.003 565.552,50 C565.552,57.996 565.522,58.943 565.378,62.101 M570.82,37.631 C570.674,34.438 570.167,32.258 569.425,30.349 C568.659,28.377 567.633,26.702 565.965,25.035 C564.297,23.368 562.623,22.342 560.652,21.575 C558.743,20.834 556.562,20.326 553.369,20.18 C550.169,20.033 549.148,20 541,20 C532.853,20 531.831,20.033 528.631,20.18 C525.438,20.326 523.257,20.834 521.349,21.575 C519.376,22.342 517.703,23.368 516.035,25.035 C514.368,26.702 513.342,28.377 512.574,30.349 C511.834,32.258 511.326,34.438 511.181,37.631 C511.035,40.831 511,41.851 511,50 C511,58.147 511.035,59.17 511.181,62.369 C511.326,65.562 511.834,67.743 512.574,69.651 C513.342,71.625 514.368,73.296 516.035,74.965 C517.703,76.634 519.376,77.658 521.349,78.425 C523.257,79.167 525.438,79.673 528.631,79.82 C531.831,79.965 532.853,80.001 541,80.001 C549.148,80.001 550.169,79.965 553.369,79.82 C556.562,79.673 558.743,79.167 560.652,78.425 C562.623,77.658 564.297,76.634 565.965,74.965 C567.633,73.296 568.659,71.625 569.425,69.651 C570.167,67.743 570.674,65.562 570.82,62.369 C570.966,59.17 571,58.147 571,50 C571,41.851 570.966,40.831 570.82,37.631\"><\/path><\/g><\/g><\/g><\/svg><\/div>\n<div style=\"padding-top: 8px;\">\n<div style=\" color:#3897f0; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:550; line-height:18px;\"> View this post on Instagram<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div style=\"padding: 12.5% 0;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"display: flex; flex-direction: row; margin-bottom: 14px; align-items: center;\">\n<div>\n<div style=\"background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(0px) translateY(7px);\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"background-color: #F4F4F4; height: 12.5px; transform: rotate(-45deg) translateX(3px) translateY(1px); width: 12.5px; flex-grow: 0; margin-right: 14px; margin-left: 2px;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(9px) translateY(-18px);\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div style=\"margin-left: 8px;\">\n<div style=\" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 20px; width: 20px;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\" width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 2px solid transparent; border-left: 6px solid #f4f4f4; border-bottom: 2px solid transparent; transform: translateX(16px) translateY(-4px) rotate(30deg)\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div style=\"margin-left: auto;\">\n<div style=\" width: 0px; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-right: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(16px);\"><\/div>\n<div style=\" background-color: #F4F4F4; flex-grow: 0; height: 12px; width: 16px; transform: translateY(-4px);\"><\/div>\n<div style=\" width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-left: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(-4px) translateX(8px);\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div style=\"display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center; margin-bottom: 24px;\">\n<div style=\" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 224px;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 144px;\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<p><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/p\/CAF7Vsejnlh\/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading\" style=\" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none;\" target=\"_blank\" target=\"_blank\">A post shared by The Business of Fashion (@bof)<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/blockquote>\n<p><script async src=\"\/\/platform.instagram.com\/en_US\/embeds.js\"><\/script><\/p>\n<p>Van Noten, alongside Altuzarra CEO Shira Sue Carmi and Lane Crawford president Andrew Keith, have secured a vast quantity of signatures, including those of Acne Studios founder Mattias Magnusson, representatives from Thom Browne and Burberry, Eckhaus Latta, Tory Burch, Gabriella Hearst, Erdem Moralioglu and Proenza Schouler&#8217;s Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez.<\/p>\n<p>It&#8217;s not the first big piece of news on the matter either since the global pandemic choked the industry. Yves Saint Laurent creative director Anthony Vaccarello announced the <a href=\"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/articles\/saint-laurent-bows-out-of-paris-fashion-week\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">French house would be bowing out of Paris Fashion Week<\/a> this September, citing current circumstances and a newer, more intimate design strategy for the change.<\/p>\n<p>While it feels like the end, consider reframing it as a beginning. We know the industry has been broken for a while, and as awful as the last few months have been, it can at least act as the catalyst for change &#8211; the monumental kind.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":5526,"featured_media":1029,"template":"","format":"standard","categories":[17,16],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO Premium plugin v18.5 (Yoast SEO v20.4) - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Is The Fashion Calendar Redundant? 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