{"id":73107,"date":"2026-09-28T11:13:08","date_gmt":"2026-09-28T07:13:08","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/me\/?post_type=articles&p=73107"},"modified":"2026-09-28T11:14:23","modified_gmt":"2026-09-28T07:14:23","slug":"gucci-ss27-milan-fashion-week","status":"publish","type":"articles","link":"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/me\/articles\/gucci-ss27-milan-fashion-week\/","title":{"rendered":"Cash Or Card? Demna\u2019s Gucci Store Is Officially Open, And Everyone Is Welcome"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"GUCCI<\/p>\n

Come one, come all\u2014Demna\u2019s Gucci store is open for business, and they don\u2019t discriminate. The house presented its Spring\/Summer 2027 show on a set mimicking \u201cthe Gucci stores of the future\u201d, replete with marble accents, clothing racks against the walls, and accessories arranged on display shelves. The premise was so simple it felt radical: why not design for the people who actually buy the clothes?<\/p>\n

The set treated a Gucci store as a meeting of the minds\u2014a gathering space for all the personalities that buy into the house, from the \u201cRebellious Aristocrat\u201d to \u201cThe Snob\u201d and \u201cThe Eccentric\u201d. And the collection, for its part, posited that every one of these many personalities is worthy of the runway. \u201cGucci\u2019s history is carried by personalities, identities, and lifestyles, not purely by design codes,\u201d wrote Demna ahead of the show. \u201cIt moves easily between aristocracy and pop culture, Florence and Hollywood, good taste and bad taste (whatever that means), heritage and mass desire, belonging and rebellion.\u201d<\/p>\n

The womenswear offering for the season began with so-called good taste, and aristocracy\u2014the icy, aloof type with multiple unpronounceable last names. The dress codes swung between tailored hacking jackets, knee-length riding boots, and sweaters tied preppily over the shoulders. Demna\u2019s commitment to the bit extended into casting, too. The show\u2019s first half was populated by older models with perfectly coiffed hair and preternaturally unwrinkled faces\u2014exactly the kind of woman who is a mainstay in a Gucci store, and rarely, if ever, seen on a runway.<\/p>\n

In another nod to the house\u2019s equestrian roots, the iconic horsebit motif was peppered throughout the collection, appearing on jacket collars and tightly wrapped cummerbund belts. Off the runway, the house\u2019s Horsebit bag is having an it-girl moment of its own, which hasn\u2019t escaped Demna\u2019s keen eye. The show put the silhouette front and centre, featuring the hardware both in its original form and on sleek totes and slim party bags.<\/p>\n

As the collection unfolded, even more Gucci characters joined the ensemble, skirting between the house\u2019s patrician origins and modern provocation. When the bourgeoisie had taken their lap, the show moved to the eccentrics: the eclectic types who wouldn\u2019t think twice about combining Scottish tweed and tartan with stacked jewellery and oversized, puffy outerwear. There were even echoes of Tom Ford-era sensuality in a parade of all-black looks, featuring cropped trousers and sharp pagoda shoulders. Meanwhile, eveningwear felt like a second skin\u2014the pi\u00e8ce de resistance was a nude, barely-there \u201cgravity\u201d gown, secured to the torso only by a teardrop counterweight hanging over the shoulder.<\/p>\n

To capture the essence of Gucci\u2019s more rebellious clientele, Demna once again looked to makeup artist Sam Visser, who created the messy, provocative looks from the Cruise 2027 and Fall\/Winter 2026 shows. For this season, Visser created \u201csuper sexy pop makeup\u201d featuring bright swipes of eyeshadow, dramatically smudged-out eyeliner, and overlined lips.<\/p>\n

That each look felt lifted from its own distinct world was precisely the point\u2014it carried on the conversation started by Demna\u2019s debut collection for Gucci, La Famiglia, where the house\u2019s various archetypes were presented in a series of family portraits. As he expounded in his statement, the creative director continues to present the modern Gucci as an amalgamation of its past, present, and future\u2014\u201ca place where those who may appear to have nothing in common can meet, connect and inspire one another.\u201d<\/p>\n

Ahead, see the standout looks from Gucci\u2019s Spring\/Summer 2027 collection.<\/p>\n

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