{"id":53372,"date":"2024-06-25T10:14:46","date_gmt":"2024-06-25T06:14:46","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/?post_type=articles&p=254912"},"modified":"2024-06-25T10:59:25","modified_gmt":"2024-06-25T06:59:25","slug":"thom-browne-fall-winter-2024-haute-couture-show","status":"publish","type":"articles","link":"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/me\/articles\/thom-browne-fall-winter-2024-haute-couture-show\/","title":{"rendered":"True Grit: Thom Browne\u2019s Varsity Couture Focuses On The Very Foundation Of Craftmanship"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"Haute-Couture-FW24\"
PARIS, FRANCE – JUNE 24: A model walks the runway during the Thom Browne Haute Couture Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on June 24, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Estrop\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Thom Browne\u2019s sophomore Haute Couture collection, presented in Paris during the Fall\/Winter 2024 season<\/a>, had no markings of a novice. In fact, the 48-piece range could be viewed as one of Browne\u2019s most coveted as the intimate crowd gathered inside the Mus\u00e9e des Arts D\u00e9coratifs were predominantly clothed in the most accessible part of the collection: the show\u2019s invite. <\/span><\/p>\n

Indeed, Browne issued an exclusive number of atelier coats\u2014made from a neutral muslin and emblazoned with the presentation\u2019s location\u2014for guests to wear. Doing so, he turned the act of watching a new season debut into a compulsory bid for participation as they steamed, ironed and styled the garment just as those creating the show looks would. <\/span><\/p>\n

It\u2019s a fitting manoeuvre that recontextualizes the practice of \u201cspectator style<\/a>\u201d, particularly for a collection that fuses athleisure with the decorative arts set against the backdrop of the imminent Paris Olympics<\/a>. Similar to Dior\u2019s FW24 Haute Collection presentation<\/a>, Browne\u2019s sportif turn was apparent from the starting block: a pearlescent ivory coat and blazer hemmed with the luxuriate\u2019s tri-colour trim and a gilded olive tree leaf \u2018Stafana\u2019 crown that paid homage to the Ancient Greek roots of the games. <\/span><\/p>\n

\"Thom-Browne-Haute-Couture-FW24\"
PARIS, FRANCE – JUNE 24:\u00a0 A model walks the runway during the Thom Browne Haute Couture Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on June 24, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Estrop\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

In Browne\u2019s grey flannel universe of uniform dressing, it\u2019s only fitting that he explores the varsity personality found within his collegiate design paradigm. Especially now given the intersection between sport and style is at an all-time high. But given this is a Thom Browne collection, after all, it was nothing short of an epic procession set on his own playing field. As four-time Olympic gold medal holder, Serena Williams<\/a> watched on from the front row, a group of burley (and shirtless!) models played a game of tug-of-war. (Editor\u2019s Note: Williams did not wear the show invite, but rather a flirty take on tailoring with a pleated mini skirt and corset rendered with illustrations of Browne\u2019s dachshund mascot, Hector.) <\/span><\/p>\n

In this game of strength, it was the very foundation of craftsmanship, muslin, that proved the victor. In each unique character, Browne demonstrated the extent of fabric manipulation and the capabilities of the imagination. For the uninitiated, each couture garment first begins with a sample. A \u2018toiles\u2019 that provides the foundation of a silhouette. Here, Browne subverts the process of construction by supplanting the pattern as the end result. Tailoring was still a hallmark but softened with raw shoulder hems sliced from layers of fabric and pleated skirts that mimic lightweight chiffon. <\/span><\/p>\n

\"Haute-Couture-FW24\"
PARIS, FRANCE – JUNE 24:\u00a0 A model walks the runway during the Thom Browne Haute Couture Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on June 24, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Estrop\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Even corsetry and metallic threads were spun from the rudimentary fibre. There is also something to be said about the deconstructed motif<\/a> present throughout. In some looks, pieces appear to be unravelling from the body or cut off altogether, like in the boned mermaid skirt cascading down the legs in layers of undress. <\/span><\/p>\n

At a time when athletes at the zenith of their capabilities will soon perform on the world stage, there\u2019s a catharsis found in Browne acknowledging some things can remain incomplete. (Not very \u201c\u2018Till It\u2019s Done<\/a>\u201d of him, but an ethos we can embrace nonetheless.) <\/span><\/p>\n

Here, the blank palette became a canvas in and of itself. Of course, we can\u2019t acknowledge this collection without appreciating the work of the atelier, or \u201cLes petites mains\u201d as they\u2019re known in French. As this phrase translates to \u201cthe little hands\u201d, it\u2019s clear these works convert into big ideas. <\/span><\/p>\n

Their most stirring work was embroidering an anatomical muscular system on the side of a cinched coat and rendering muslin into jackets made of bronze, silver and gold. The models that presented the final trio of looks carried dog purses fixed with medals<\/a> around their necks, too. Where will Browne be come the opening ceremony in July? Perhaps not in the makeshift stands lining the Seine, but his collection will fit right at home in the crowd.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"
PARIS, FRANCE – JUNE 24: A model walks the runway during the Thom Browne Haute Couture Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on June 24, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Francois Durand\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Haute-Couture-FW24\"
PARIS, FRANCE – JUNE 24:\u00a0 A model walks the runway during the Thom Browne Haute Couture Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on June 24, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Estrop\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Haute-Couture-FW24\"
PARIS, FRANCE – JUNE 24: A model walks the runway during the Thom Browne Haute Couture Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on June 24, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Estrop\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Haute-Couture-FW24\"
PARIS, FRANCE – JUNE 24: A model walks the runway during the Thom Browne Haute Couture Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on June 24, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Estrop\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Haute-Couture-FW24\"
PARIS, FRANCE – JUNE 24:\u00a0 A model walks the runway during the Thom Browne Haute Couture Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on June 24, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Estrop\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Haute-Couture-FW24\"
PARIS, FRANCE – JUNE 24: A model walks the runway during the Thom Browne Haute Couture Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on June 24, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Estrop\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Haute-Couture-FW24\"
PARIS, FRANCE – JUNE 24:\u00a0 A model walks the runway during the Thom Browne Haute Couture Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on June 24, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Estrop\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Haute-Couture-FW24\"
PARIS, FRANCE – JUNE 24: A model walks the runway during the Thom Browne Haute Couture Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on June 24, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Estrop\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Haute-Couture-FW24\"
PARIS, FRANCE – JUNE 24:\u00a0 A model walks the runway during the Thom Browne Haute Couture Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on June 24, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Estrop\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Haute-Couture-FW24\"
PARIS, FRANCE – JUNE 24:\u00a0 A model walks the runway during the Thom Browne Haute Couture Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on June 24, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Estrop\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Haute-Couture-FW24\"
PARIS, FRANCE – JUNE 24: A model walks the runway during the Thom Browne Haute Couture Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on June 24, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Estrop\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Haute-Couture-FW24\"
PARIS, FRANCE – JUNE 24:\u00a0 A model walks the runway during the Thom Browne Haute Couture Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on June 24, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Estrop\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Haute-Couture-FW24\"
PARIS, FRANCE – JUNE 24:\u00a0 A model walks the runway during the Thom Browne Haute Couture Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on June 24, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Estrop\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Haute-Couture-FW24\"
PARIS, FRANCE – JUNE 24:\u00a0 A model walks the runway during the Thom Browne Haute Couture Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on June 24, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Estrop\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Haute-Couture-FW24\"
PARIS, FRANCE – JUNE 24: A model walks the runway during the Thom Browne Haute Couture Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on June 24, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Estrop\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Haute-Couture-FW24\"
PARIS, FRANCE – JUNE 24:\u00a0 A model walks the runway during the Thom Browne Haute Couture Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on June 24, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Estrop\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Haute-Couture-FW24\"
PARIS, FRANCE – JUNE 24: A model walks the runway during the Thom Browne Haute Couture Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on June 24, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Estrop\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Haute-Couture-FW24\"
PARIS, FRANCE – JUNE 24:\u00a0 A model walks the runway during the Thom Browne Haute Couture Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on June 24, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Estrop\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Haute-Couture-FW24\"
PARIS, FRANCE – JUNE 24: A model walks the runway during the Thom Browne Haute Couture Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on June 24, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Estrop\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Haute-Couture-FW24\"
PARIS, FRANCE – JUNE 24: A model walks the runway during the Thom Browne Haute Couture Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on June 24, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Estrop\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Haute-Couture-FW24\"
PARIS, FRANCE – JUNE 24:\u00a0 A model walks the runway during the Thom Browne Haute Couture Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on June 24, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Estrop\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Haute-Couture-FW24\"
PARIS, FRANCE – JUNE 24: A model walks the runway during the Thom Browne Haute Couture Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on June 24, 2024 in Paris, France. 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