{"id":53359,"date":"2024-06-25T10:40:21","date_gmt":"2024-06-25T06:40:21","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/?post_type=articles&p=254843"},"modified":"2024-06-25T10:40:21","modified_gmt":"2024-06-25T06:40:21","slug":"schiaparelli-fall-winter-2024-haute-couture-show","status":"publish","type":"articles","link":"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/me\/articles\/schiaparelli-fall-winter-2024-haute-couture-show\/","title":{"rendered":"At Schiaparelli\u2019s Fall\/Winter 2024 Haute Couture Runway Show, Birds Of A Feather Seek New Beginnings"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"Schiaparelli
Credit: Courtesy of Schiaparelli.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\u201c<\/span>C\u00e9zanne started with all the tricks and then he broke the whole thing down and built the real thing. It was hell to do.\u201d<\/span> \u2014 Ernest Hemingway<\/em><\/p>\n

American novelist and Caf\u00e9 Society<\/a> veteran, Ernest Hemingway, only crossed paths with Elsa Schiaparelli in Paris for a year in the late 1920s. But almost a century later, incumbent creative director, Daniel Roseberry, resonated with the author\u2019s unsung musings on the French impressionist painter (featured in his short story \u201cBig Two-Hearted River\u201d) so much that he selected it as the thesis statement for his Fall\/Winter 2024 Haute Couture collection.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Perhaps, in part, it\u2019s because Roseberry himself has been through hell. Figuratively, of course, as he wove a thread through the nine circles posited by Italian poet Dante Alighieri<\/a>\u2018s epic <\/span>Divine Comedy<\/span><\/i> for the Maison\u2019s Spring\/Summer 2023 Haute Couture collection<\/a>. It was a presentation that saw him grapple with his own version of <\/span>Inferno<\/span><\/i> with unwonted criticism<\/a> from animal activism groups and an inaccurate label for peddling gimmicks<\/a>.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Cut to his current outing, \u201cThe Phoenix\u201d, and Roseberry is firmly centred on the concept of rebirth; the gesture of scorching a trail to rebuild yourself from the ashes. <\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cSchiaparelli was a phoenix, a magical creature whose power lay in her ceaseless ability to reinvent\u2014not only herself, but fashion, too,\u201d Roseberry writes<\/a> of his predecessor in his show notes. <\/span>On June 24, over 31 resolute looks debuted in the basement of the H\u00f4tel Salomon de Rothschild in Paris. In keeping with the show\u2019s theme, Roseberry took a flame to the act of theatrical runway presentations and aligned himself to the staging of yore.<\/p>\n

This process was clear from the moment his celebrity clientele\u2014Kylie Jenner<\/a>, Doja Cat<\/a> and Selma Blair<\/a>\u2014arrived on the front row. Each proficient in reshaping their image, these women were a signal of the menagerie Roseberry elicited in his performance of renewal. The collection opened with the orchestral repose of Bruno Alexiu\u2019s \u201cA Bucolic Scene\u201d. <\/span>To the swells of strings, Schiaparelli\u2019s first model emerged in a black velvet cap swaddled by gilded feathers. Take a look:<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/blockquote><\/div>\n
<\/div>\n

The Phoenix-winged shoulders adorned with a 3D chrome trompe l\u2019oeil plumed embroidery paid homage to Russian prima ballerina Anna Pavlova, whose performance of \u201cThe Dying Swan<\/a>\u201d served as inspiration for Schiaparelli in the early 1930s, too. Yes, this avian motif set the scene, but the stagnation combined with the intentional sauntering of the model\u2019s movement across the hall bore more resemblance to Icarus preparing to take flight from his crest, especially given Roseberry\u2019s interest in mythology and meditations on rebirth.<\/span><\/p>\n

In this way, concepts from Schiaparelli\u2019s archives underwent a renaissance as well, as Roseberry breathed new life and ideas into them for the contemporary age. Such was the case for <\/span>a black velvet short-sleeved top embroidered with silver metal and sequins inspired by the design of the iconic Schiaparelli \u201cApollo of Versailles\u201d cape from the 1938 Zodiac collection<\/a>. Or, the dress in pink silk satin duchesse made of layers of hand-cut ribbons and enhanced with protruding vintage heels inspired by Schiaparelli and Salvador Dal\u00ed\u2019s surrealist shoe hat from 1937.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Even simple silhouettes, be it the cocoon dress designed in 1951 or organza feathered jacket, and matching ushanka hat modelled by Karlie Kloss, were reimagined with as much care as the voluminous tulle skirts that closed the collection.<\/p>\n

Elsewhere, black cocktail dresses exposed an underside of tights which were embellished with rusted pink sequins. An absinthe-hued satin skirt was wrapped like a bow flowed into a sheer black mesh and lace bustier. Yes, it\u2019s apparent \u201cThe Phoenix\u201d isn\u2019t just about reinvention, but the act of women revealing new facets of themselves in the everyday.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cIt\u2019s an expression of my vision for the Maison today, one free from marketing and merchandising,\u201d Roseberry writes. \u201cBut it\u2019s also something else: a way for me to honour that relationship, one of the most intimate ones in the world\u2014the one in which I give women the power to be reborn, again and again and again.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Schiaparelli-FW24\"
Credit: Courtesy of Schiaparelli.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Schiaparelli-FW24\"
Credit: Courtesy of Schiaparelli.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Schiaparelli-FW24\"
Credit: Courtesy of Schiaparelli.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
Credit: Courtesy of Schiaparelli<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Schiaparelli-FW24\"
Credit: Courtesy of Schiaparelli.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Schiaparelli-FW24\"
Credit: Courtesy of Schiaparelli.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Schiaparelli-FW24\"
Credit: Courtesy of Schiaparelli.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Schiaparelli-FW24\"
Credit: Courtesy of Schiaparelli.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Schiaparelli-FW24\"
Credit: Courtesy of Schiaparelli.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Schiaparelli-FW24\"
Credit: Courtesy of Schiaparelli.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Schiaparelli-FW24\"
Credit: Courtesy of Schiaparelli.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Schiaparelli-FW24\"
Credit: Courtesy of Schiaparelli.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Schiaparelli-FW24\"
Credit: Courtesy of Schiaparelli.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Schiaparelli-FW24\"
Credit: Courtesy of Schiaparelli.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"author":42674,"featured_media":53366,"template":"","format":"standard","categories":[65,35],"yoast_head":"\nSchiaparelli Haute Couture Fall\/Winter 2024: "The Phoneix"<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Schiaparelli presented its Fall\/Winter 2024 Haute Couture collection at Paris. 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