{"id":48994,"date":"2024-03-05T09:01:09","date_gmt":"2024-03-05T05:01:09","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/?post_type=articles&p=248671"},"modified":"2024-03-05T09:47:45","modified_gmt":"2024-03-05T05:47:45","slug":"pfw-savage-energy-from-outsiders-the-new-alexander-mcqueen-is-divisive","status":"publish","type":"articles","link":"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/me\/articles\/pfw-savage-energy-from-outsiders-the-new-alexander-mcqueen-is-divisive\/","title":{"rendered":"PFW: Savage Energy From Outsiders. The New Alexander McQueen Is Divisive"},"content":{"rendered":"
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PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 02: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY – For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Alexander McQueen Womenswear Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 02, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Yanshan Zhang\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

It can\u2019t be easy stepping into a creative directorship whose predecessors were widely revered. Sarah Burton\u2019s 13-year tenure (and 26 years with the company) was an exercise in modernised traditionalism with refined detailing. She was adored and her niche extended to make the label her own. Then, of course, there was founder Lee Alexander McQueen who remains one of the most venerated designers in history. His blend of art, sculpture and costumery saw him wow the world with over 17 years worth of avant garde sartorial theatrics – most now in museums for further historical poignancy.<\/p>\n

So when JW Anderson alum Se\u00e1n McGirr took over following Burton\u2019s exit last year, it was always going to divide the die-hards. And his first collection, Fall\/Winter \u201924, presented in Paris on Sunday, did exactly that. If one was to go by the backlash on social media (which, of course, one would not), the reaction was bleak. Waving their Armadillo shoes around, this is a group difficult to please. But, as McGirr put it he was he not in the mindset of filling anyone\u2019s shoes and was instead focused on \u201cbring[ing] new energy\u201d to the brand.<\/p>\n

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PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 02: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY – For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Alexander McQueen Womenswear Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 02, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Yanshan Zhang\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 02: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY – For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Alexander McQueen Womenswear Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 02, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Yanshan Zhang\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Model on the runway at Alexander McQueen RTW Fall 2024 as part of Paris Ready to Wear Fashion Week held on March 2, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Giovanni Giannoni\/WWD via Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Energy indeed, this collection ignited a wave of interest be it good or bad. McGirr\u2019s arc is certainly more pointed towards the McQueen part of the story, with appropriations of the late designer’s mid-90s London grunge narrative and more debaucherous eras to form an \u201cOutsiders\u201d theme. Inspired by the “rough glamour” you might see walking the streets of London, McGirr wanted to examine the individuality of looks beyond the regular. He did so with a conversion of exaggerated apparel (wacky macro-knit sweaters), turbulent leathers in a variety of 90s and 80s silhouettes (some that offered a \u2018Billie Jean\u2019 energy and some a shruggy David Lynch vibe) and non compis creations by way of repurposed pile carpet armour and a particularly hairy oversized bucket top.<\/p>\n

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PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 02: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY – For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Alexander McQueen Womenswear Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 02, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Yanshan Zhang\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 02: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY – For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Alexander McQueen Womenswear Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 02, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Yanshan Zhang\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 02: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY – For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Alexander McQueen Womenswear Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 02, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Yanshan Zhang\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Perhaps it was difficult to determine the cohesive decision behind the collection, in that a lot of it seemed separate – unlike McQueen whose collections usually centred on solid stories. McGirr’s moulded steel dresses in iridescent \u2018Aston Martin\u2019 blue and neon \u2018Lamborghini\u2019 yellow (worn with big Doc Martins) drew a kind of Moschino facetiousness but were inspired by his mechanic father. While rugged gowns and disco suits adorned with pointy collars and furry cuffs had a Nick Cave energy they were inspired by the \u201crough glamour of the East End\u201d. Impressively, the gargantuan cable knit sweaters and bulbous feathery coats were memorable – an inspired take on casualified couture. Overall, perhaps, character fidelity was missing. But maybe we were missing the point. Either way, it will be interesting to see what he does next.<\/p>\n

It has been a season of backlash in the fashion world, McGirr not the only one to cause a stir. At Vivienne Westwood, Sam Smith in a tartan diaper holding a tree branch became an instant meme, while Balenciaga\u2019s Demna Gvasalia<\/a> did a 180\u00b0 on his purported decision to \u201cdesign quality clothes [without] making image or buzz\u201d with a collection of, well, image and buzz. Once again irritating the masses he conversely remained inappropriately newsworthy. Perhaps this is what makes fashion fun, though, pressing the buttons of the industry, of consumers, and leaning out of the ordinary to leap into something fresh. Worth doing even if the leap turns into a stumble on occasion.<\/p>\n

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PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 02: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY – For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Alexander McQueen Womenswear Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 02, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Yanshan Zhang\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Model on the runway at Alexander McQueen RTW Fall 2024 as part of Paris Ready to Wear Fashion Week held on March 2, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Giovanni Giannoni\/WWD via Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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PARIS, FRANCE – MARCH 02: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY – For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Alexander McQueen Womenswear Fall\/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 02, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Yanshan Zhang\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"author":294,"featured_media":48995,"template":"","format":"standard","categories":[65,35],"yoast_head":"\nPFW: Savage Energy From Outsiders. The New Alexander McQueen Is Divisive - Grazia Middle East<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Taking on a beloved fashion house is like jumping into a pool of sharks. 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