{"id":48356,"date":"2024-02-20T06:00:38","date_gmt":"2024-02-20T02:00:38","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/?post_type=articles&p=247404"},"modified":"2024-02-20T06:54:45","modified_gmt":"2024-02-20T02:54:45","slug":"lfw-an-erdem-ovation-for-honouring-la-davina","status":"publish","type":"articles","link":"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/me\/articles\/lfw-an-erdem-ovation-for-honouring-la-davina\/","title":{"rendered":"LFW: An Erdem Ovation For Honouring \u201cLa Davina\u201d"},"content":{"rendered":"
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LONDON, ENGLAND – FEBRUARY 17: A model walks the runway at the ERDEM show during London Fashion Week February 2024 at The British Museum on February 17, 2024 in London, England. (Photo by Jeff Spicer\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The musing of Maria Callas by Erdem Moral\u0131o\u011flu for his Fall\/Winter 2024 collection, revealed a palpable creative synergy. Callas, the Greek-American soprano whose legend remains not only within operatic history but within the fundamentals of strong female pioneers, curated a career and persona that imposed an exceptional level of style.<\/p>\n

Moral\u0131o\u011flu\u2019s collections are of the same aptitude. Feminine architecture crafted with exquisite fabrications and the most decadent of appliqu\u00e9 – pieces celebratory, powerful and exultant in their reverie for great art and design. As an art history major, the connection to historical culture goes with the territory for Moral\u0131o\u011flu. His prints often sample the works of master creatives and honour their aesthetic nuances. However, it was not generically the life and style of Callas that brought inspiration to Moral\u0131o\u011flu this time, but rather her singular, 1969 film Medea<\/em>.<\/p>\n

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ERDEM Autumn Winter 2024 Collection – Jason Lloyd Evans – 9<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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ERDEM Autumn Winter 2024 Collection – Jason Lloyd Evans – 9<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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ERDEM Autumn Winter 2024 Collection – Jason Lloyd Evans – 9<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

A cinematic take on Euripides’ play The Medea<\/em>, the stoic image created by Callas in the film became almost as heroic as the heroine she embodied. Costumed in delicate brocades with rich embroidered tunics, the look transferred to Callas\u2019 own life, a time in which she began to reject her operatic past.<\/p>\n

This collection is an inspired homage, with a convincing coolness that will translate into the season\u2019s obsession with the 1960\u2019s well-dressed woman (more crassly referred to as the ‘Mob Wife’ aesthetic). Exaggerated shawls in boucl\u00e9 wool, cape-sleeved herringbone gowns and square-collared jackets (that resembled Callas\u2019 iconic silk stoles) created a fabulously harmonious Erdem season. Each look played flawlessly into the next, much like the haunting arias, sung by Callas, that filled the room around them.<\/p>\n

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ERDEM Autumn Winter 2024 Collection – Jason Lloyd Evans – 9<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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ERDEM Autumn Winter 2024 Collection – Jason Lloyd Evans – 9<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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ERDEM Autumn Winter 2024 Collection – Jason Lloyd Evans – 9<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Fabric is an integral part of Moral\u0131o\u011flu\u2019s designs, and his use of merino jacquards, crushed metallised satin and organza trimmed with guipure lace (many framed with wispy ostrich feathers) summoned both the beauty and pain of Medea<\/em>\u2019s tragical dramaturgy. Each look strong in its own characterisation, either draped in asymmetrical lines or cut large to build valorous silhouettes, one could imagine any of them as sartorial sopranos.<\/p>\n

Certainly the use of texture – both rugged and fragile – played perfectly into the contrasting life of Callas. A woman who was often referred to as \u201cLa Davina\u201d (the divine one), her all-encompassing performances blurred the line between reality and escapism. She became her character so undeniably there was often difficulty separating the truth from fiction. Perhaps that\u2019s what makes Moral\u0131o\u011flu\u2019s assiduity for artistic expression so timelessly intoxicating – his ability to create a dress for the moment that then wholeheartedly becomes it.<\/p>\n

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ERDEM Autumn Winter 2024 Collection – Jason Lloyd Evans – 9<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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ERDEM Autumn Winter 2024 Collection – Jason Lloyd Evans – 9<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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ERDEM Autumn Winter 2024 Collection – Jason Lloyd Evans – 9<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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ERDEM Autumn Winter 2024 Collection – Jason Lloyd Evans – 9<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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ERDEM Autumn Winter 2024 Collection – Jason Lloyd Evans – 9<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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ERDEM Autumn Winter 2024 Collection – Jason Lloyd Evans – 9<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"author":294,"featured_media":48357,"template":"","format":"standard","categories":[65,35],"yoast_head":"\nLFW: An Erdem Ovation For Honouring \u201cLa Davina\u201d - Grazia Middle East<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Playing to the unbridled class of opera singer Maria Callas, Erdem Moral\u0131o\u011flu creates an aria of empowering elegance for Fall\/Winter 2024\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/me\/articles\/lfw-an-erdem-ovation-for-honouring-la-davina\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"LFW: An Erdem Ovation For Honouring \u201cLa Davina\u201d\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Playing to the unbridled class of opera singer Maria Callas, Erdem Moral\u0131o\u011flu creates an aria of empowering elegance for Fall\/Winter 2024\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/me\/articles\/lfw-an-erdem-ovation-for-honouring-la-davina\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Grazia Middle East\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2024-02-20T02:54:45+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/me\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/16\/2024\/02\/ERDEM-Autumn-Winter-2024-Collection-Jason-Lloyd-Evans-45-Cropped-scaled-1.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"2560\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"1440\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"6 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/me\/articles\/lfw-an-erdem-ovation-for-honouring-la-davina\/\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/me\/articles\/lfw-an-erdem-ovation-for-honouring-la-davina\/\",\"name\":\"LFW: An Erdem Ovation For Honouring \u201cLa Davina\u201d - 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