{"id":38352,"date":"2023-07-04T10:16:06","date_gmt":"2023-07-04T06:16:06","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/?post_type=articles&p=235554"},"modified":"2023-07-04T10:18:43","modified_gmt":"2023-07-04T06:18:43","slug":"iris-van-herpen-fall-2023-couture","status":"publish","type":"articles","link":"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/me\/articles\/iris-van-herpen-fall-2023-couture\/","title":{"rendered":"Inspired By Aquatic Architecture, Iris Van Herpen\u2019s Fall 2023 Couture Collection Looks To The Undertow For A Hybrid Fantasy"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"Iris-Van-Herpen\"
Backstage at the Iris Van Herpen Fall 2023 Couture Collection Runway Show on July 3, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Vanni Bassetti\/WWD via Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Iris Van Herpen chose the terrestrial setting of a small garden in Paris to unveil her Haute Couture Fall\/Winter 2023 collection; a 16-piece interchange between aquatic architecture and bionic innovations set against sumptuous sartorial techniques that reinforce the Dutch couturier as the pinnacle of experimentation and exploration. <\/span><\/p>\n

Fluidity and fantasy are synonymous with Van Herpen\u2019s offerings yet, unfittingly for these precarious times, this collection doesn\u2019t revel in providing an ethereal reprieve from the ecological ephialtes we\u2019re currently enduring but rather offers an anything-but-quotidian uniform for those threatened by expeditious rising sea levels. <\/span><\/p>\n

Van Herpen\u2019s own home, the Netherlands, is perpetually vulnerable to the impacts of climate change with the unprecedented sea change one day likely to engulf the \u201clow country\u201d in water. <\/span>Yet, rather than use the Haute Couture Fall\/Winter 2023\u00a0 season<\/a> as a medium for espousing Van Herpen\u2019s climate politics, she\u2019s used this platform as a vessel to extrapolate what this new hybrid form of living would look like. Or, more importantly, what an amalgam of tellurian and marine dressing would look like. <\/span><\/p>\n

\"Iris-Van-Herpen-FW23\"
PARIS, FRANCE \u2013 JULY 3: Iris Van Herpen Haute Couture Fall\/Winter 2023\/2024 (Photo by Estrop\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

On a theoretical level, Van Herpen quotes projects like Oceanix\u2014a sustainable floating shelter dubbed as the \u201cnext frontier for human habitation\u201d with a prototype being built in South Korea\u2019s port city Busan\u2014or the evocative buildings conjured by\u00a0 French underwater architect and oceanographer Jacques Rougerie as inspiration. <\/span><\/p>\n

On a conceptual level, Van Herpen applies her distinctly futuristic and technological design methodology<\/a> to appropriate the geometric structures envisioned for littoral cityscapes into sartorial marvels. An apt thesis for a collection entitled \u201cArchitectonic\u201d. <\/span><\/p>\n

Just as Oceanix and Rougerie\u2019s designs strike a harmonious balance between referencing and influencing the oceanic environs, Van Herpen\u2019s otherworldly silhouettes bridge the gap between wearable and functional designs in acclimatising to your surroundings. <\/span>\u201cI wanted to bring the structural element of architecture in a very fluid way,\u201d Van Herpen explained backstage at the show. \u201cI wanted the garments to live, move, and breathe.\u201d <\/span><\/p>\n

\"Iris-Van-Herpen-Fall23-Couture\"
PARIS, FRANCE \u2013 JULY 3: Iris Van Herpen Haute Couture Fall\/Winter 2023\/2024\u00a0 (Photo by Estrop\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

It\u2019s not difficult to draw parallels between this collection and conceptual marine life itself, especially in a landscape proliferated by an obsession with #mermaidcore and aquatic adjacent motifs<\/a>, but Van Herpen\u2019s collection takes a more cerebral approach to explore the science of architecture through a pelagic lens. Indeed, avant-garde gowns rival the underwater wardrobes of the inhabitants of Atlantis. <\/span><\/p>\n

Amongst the laser-cut geometry and embroidered mandala-esque configurations that adorns diaphanous dresses, Van Herpen has forged her dialogue and pioneered her design techniques. The iridescent seashell motifs are a trompe-l\u2019\u0153il, with this high-shine exoskeleton a result of injecting marble-textured silicone into bonded moulds, giving the appearance of an abalone shell. A process Van Herpen calls \u201cBiophilic\u201d. <\/span><\/p>\n

\"Iris-Van-Herpen-Fall23-Couture\"
PARIS, FRANCE \u2013 JULY 3: Iris Van Herpen Haute Couture Fall\/Winter 2023\/2024. (Photo by Estrop\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The \u201cOceanix\u201d technique sees graphic polygon patterns protrude from the wave-esque body. Elsewhere, liquid silk fabric in hues ranging from metallic seafoam to glistening pearls were either pleated or softly draped to evoke the sensation of light glistening upon the horizon at golden hour. This oceanic movement is well within Van Herpen\u2019s wheelhouse and her id\u00e9e fixe, with both her Spring 2021 and Spring 2023 couture collections underpinned by marine influences. <\/a><\/span><\/p>\n

However, for this Fall season, the themes become more pertinent by Van Herpen\u2019s eschewing a far-flung or inconceivable world for something more pertinent. A reality likely realised within our lifespan with these designs reached for when descending to our submerged cities rather than exclusive to the red carpet.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Iris-Van-Herpen-Fall23-Couture\"
PARIS, FRANCE \u2013 JULY 3: Iris Van Herpen Haute Couture Fall\/Winter 2023\/2024. (Photo by Estrop\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Iris-Van-Herpen-Fall23-Couture\"
PARIS, FRANCE \u2013 JULY 3: Iris Van Herpen Haute Couture Fall\/Winter 2023\/2024. (Photo by Estrop\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Iris-Van-Herpen-Fall23-Couture\"
PARIS, FRANCE \u2013 JULY 3: Iris Van Herpen Haute Couture Fall\/Winter 2023\/2024. (Photo by Estrop\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Iris-Van-Herpen-Fall23-Couture\"
PARIS, FRANCE \u2013 JULY 3: Iris Van Herpen Haute Couture Fall\/Winter 2023\/2024. (Photo by Estrop\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Iris-Van-Herpen-Fall23-Couture\"
PARIS, FRANCE \u2013 JULY 3: Iris Van Herpen Haute Couture Fall\/Winter 2023\/2024. (Photo by Estrop\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Iris-Van-Herpen-Fall23-Couture\"
PARIS, FRANCE \u2013 JULY 3: Iris Van Herpen Haute Couture Fall\/Winter 2023\/2024. (Photo by Estrop\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"author":42674,"featured_media":38358,"template":"","format":"standard","categories":[65,35],"yoast_head":"\nIris Van Herpen Looks To Aquatic Cities For Fall 2023 Couture<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Iris Van Herpen unveiled her Fall 2023 couture collection during Paris Couture week. 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