{"id":38350,"date":"2023-07-04T11:21:27","date_gmt":"2023-07-04T01:21:27","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/?post_type=articles&p=235508"},"modified":"2023-07-04T10:19:29","modified_gmt":"2023-07-04T06:19:29","slug":"schiaparelli-haute-couture-fall-2023","status":"publish","type":"articles","link":"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/me\/articles\/schiaparelli-haute-couture-fall-2023\/","title":{"rendered":"Daniel Roseberry Finds A World Of Wonder Beyond Boundaries At Schiaparelli Haute Couture Fall\/Winter 23\/24"},"content":{"rendered":"
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PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 3: A model walks the runway during the Schiaparelli Haute Couture Fall\/Winter 2023\/2024 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on July 3, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Estrop\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

After a more habitual approach last season<\/a>, Daniel Roseberry takes flight with Schiaparelli\u2019s Fall\/Winter 2023\/2024 show. Entitled ‘And the artists’, the collection is heavily inspired by artists, but not just their work or their messages. Just as Roseberry, a creative director with an unmatched capacity for exploration and humour, relishes in the creative journey as a whole, he goes beyond the usual references and finds inspiration that would fly by the heads of many.<\/p>\n

From the moment Danish model Mona Tougaard slinks onto the runway, physics undoubtedly plays on everyone’s mind. Then, a winter white melton coat rendered with Venus’ likeness and the kind of draping that could have taken months to perfect. But notably, all the looks we see were intentionally pulled together just days before the show. In a process most would find inconceivable, Roseberry<\/a> credits as a “revelation”.<\/p>\n

Unbound by the pressure to work within the codes of the maison’s founder, Elsa Schiaparelli, Rosberry\u2014who has more than earned the right to steer his own ship\u2014finds “freedom” in separates. “I wanted to make an impossible wardrobe\u2014impossible not because it\u2019s not wearable, but because it\u2019s so extraordinary,” he said of his approach, “a Surrealist\u2019s interpretation of a woman\u2019s essential closet.”<\/p>\n

‘Impossible’ is an apt word to apply to the collection. Each piece references an artist of no specific era or school, but somehow, the curation is there, and the flow is mesmerising. A dress that came about by hand painting a model’s body in brushwork inspired by Lucian Freud<\/a>, which was then transferred to a stretch silk body stocking, is flanked by a woolly tubular coat with wooden arms crossed over the front and a faux fur coat that mimics the palm fronds at the H\u00f4tel R\u00e9gina that housed Matisse’s studio.<\/p>\n

Elsewhere, sculptor Jack Whitten\u2019s mirrored mosaic pieces find their way in a broken-mirror stretch cardigan and skirt set. A leather cigarette box that trims a ball gown skirt is a homage to Sarah Lucas, and the deep blue pebble-like beads and powder that cover a multitude of surfaces\u2014including the necks and torsos of models\u2014are a nod to Yves Klein, but also to Miro\u2019s illustrations for children. Even the walls of artist Lucian Freud\u2019s London studio inspired the dramatic chaos of painterly brushwork on an oversized white laminated puffer.<\/p>\n

This collection has been so heavily inspired by disparate worlds of creation, coming together in a blurred amalgam that finds focus only if we tap into a primal sense of wonder. This is the “creative innocence” we hear Roseberry talking about in the face of a very serious world, and it’s awfully captivating.<\/p>\n

Bodies are not lost in these big ideas, either. Silhouettes are built to flatter in retro feminine shapes, and craft-like accessories never overwhelm the wearer. Trademark anatomical toes reappear, as did gilded ears in the form of a coat clasp, but it’s the pearl-encrusted capped pumps and slit peep toe shapes that, though more streamlined than we’re used to from Roseberry, stir excitement.<\/p>\n

It’s undeniable the gruelling levels of effort that the atelier behind Schiaparelli’s looks would employ to bring Roseberry’s vision to life, but the team possess an ineffable ability to leave this out of the final product. There are no remnants of the painstaking labour in the mood of the clothes, despite the hours and resources that would have been undertaken to pull off such a feat in the time allocated. Instead, each look, each accessory and every detail exudes a joy and passion for creation.<\/p>\n

Entering into a new territory of progressive separates, structural silhouettes and otherworldly outerwear in prints and fabrics that make us look again\u2014if you can peel your eyes off of the pieces the first time\u2014Roseberry<\/a> invites us to reimagine what is possible with clothing. His vision is grand and ambitious but exacted with a compelling sense of wit and an ability to see the lightness in the artist\u2019s process.<\/p>\n

Fashion is often grounded by the world, rebuked into humility, as we saw with Schiaparelli’s last collection<\/a>. Luckily for us, we have artists still willing to play.<\/p>\n

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Schiaparelli Haute Couture Fall\/Winter 2023\/2024<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Schiaparelli
Schiaparelli Haute Couture Fall\/Winter 2023\/2024<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"author":42672,"featured_media":38351,"template":"","format":"standard","categories":[65,35],"yoast_head":"\nSchiaparelli Haute Couture Fall\/Winter 2023\/24: A World Of Wonder<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"At Schiaparelli, Daniel Roseberry immerses us into a world of wonder, inspired by artists and crafted with awe-inspiring precision.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/me\/articles\/schiaparelli-haute-couture-fall-2023\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Daniel Roseberry Finds A World Of Wonder Beyond Boundaries At Schiaparelli Haute Couture Fall\/Winter 23\/24\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" 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