{"id":33015,"date":"2023-02-25T10:53:18","date_gmt":"2023-02-24T23:53:18","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/?post_type=articles&p=228309"},"modified":"2023-02-25T16:27:57","modified_gmt":"2023-02-25T05:27:57","slug":"mfw-gucci-goes-to-the-archives-for-fall-winter-23","status":"publish","type":"articles","link":"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/me\/articles\/mfw-gucci-goes-to-the-archives-for-fall-winter-23\/","title":{"rendered":"MFW: Gucci Goes To The Archives For Fall\/Winter 23"},"content":{"rendered":"
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MILAN, ITALY – FEBRUARY 24: A model walks the runway during the Gucci Ready to Wear Fall\/Winter 2023-2024 fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on February 24, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE\/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Though the cries from Alessandro Michele devotees can be still heard, after his departure in November last year, at Gucci HQ the show had to go on. Incoming creative director Sabato de Sarno is due to begin with the Spring 2024 collection in September and until then remains on the books at Valentino. So, for fall\/winter 2023 we were delivered an in-betweener, one created by the team of Michele\u2019s tenure.<\/p>\n

It was homage-like in the sense that it stayed true to Michele\u2019s vintage aesthetic, pieces eclectic and jarring, however it didn\u2019t fall into a particular pocket of narrative or emotion that Michle\u2019s collections always did. Throughtout, there were moments of 90s rave-club, moments of a feather-coated Margot Tenenbaum and even moments of (I guess ironic) classicism with the use of side-hooped pannier skirts. It also included at least two Slimane-esque ensembles dedicated to pre-millenia jeans worn with a white shirt and and oversized jacket.<\/p>\n

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MILAN, ITALY – FEBRUARY 24: A model walks the runway during the Gucci Ready to Wear Fall\/Winter 2023-2024 fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on February 24, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE\/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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MILAN, ITALY – FEBRUARY 24: A model walks the runway during the Gucci Ready to Wear Fall\/Winter 2023-2024 fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on February 24, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE\/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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MILAN, ITALY – FEBRUARY 24: A model walks the runway during the Gucci Ready to Wear Fall\/Winter 2023-2024 fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on February 24, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE\/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The midi skirts worn with mesh tube tops and lilac stockings as well as the long, double-breasted blazers worn over split-ankle trousers were all familiar looks from previous collections, as were the plentiful bralettes and the unsparing use of fluffy Yeti shoes. Evening wear was a dip into fashion era archives, but it didn\u2019t pick just one. A ping-ponging timeline from romanticism to flapper to eighties prom made finding cohesion all the more difficult. Bags were bigger, more practical and there was a distinct featuring of GG insignia leather belts that, when hot, are unstoppably popular. Novelty mohair and faux-fur coats in shades of Cookie Monster again saluted Michele, its ilk probably due to be big sellers this winter season.<\/p>\n

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MILAN, ITALY – FEBRUARY 24: A model walks the runway during the Gucci Ready to Wear Fall\/Winter 2023-2024 fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on February 24, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE\/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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MILAN, ITALY – FEBRUARY 24: A model walks the runway during the Gucci Ready to Wear Fall\/Winter 2023-2024 fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on February 24, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE\/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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MILAN, ITALY – FEBRUARY 24: A model walks the runway during the Gucci Ready to Wear Fall\/Winter 2023-2024 fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on February 24, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE\/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

There has been a lot of talk about the return to wearability this season. That collections have been less of an artistic spectacle and more a latest in nice clothes. Perhaps this has to do with the bottom line, or perhaps it\u2019s a just trend like anything else – a kind of ironic-irony where a return to basics in itself becomes anti-basic. It\u2019s hard to keep up.<\/p>\n

However, its unlikely Gucci was intentionally deviating towards practicality. Perhaps this was more a case of keeping it all together until the next leader arrives. It will be interesting to see where de Sarno takes the label, a few steps back from Michele\u2019s archival patchwork style might be just what the doctor ordered. An order for a new time, a new artist, a new look. We\u2019re ready.<\/p>\n

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MILAN, ITALY – FEBRUARY 24: A model walks the runway during the Gucci Ready to Wear Fall\/Winter 2023-2024 fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on February 24, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE\/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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MILAN, ITALY – FEBRUARY 24: Julia Nobis walks the runway during the Gucci Ready to Wear Fall\/Winter 2023-2024 fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on February 24, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE\/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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MILAN, ITALY – FEBRUARY 24: A model walks the runway during the Gucci Ready to Wear Fall\/Winter 2023-2024 fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on February 24, 2023 in Milan, Italy. 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