{"id":27554,"date":"2022-09-19T23:44:20","date_gmt":"2022-09-19T13:44:20","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/?post_type=articles&p=220658"},"modified":"2022-09-19T23:54:18","modified_gmt":"2022-09-19T13:54:18","slug":"erdem-spring-summer-2023","status":"publish","type":"articles","link":"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/me\/articles\/erdem-spring-summer-2023\/","title":{"rendered":"Erdem’s Wearable Works Of Art"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"Erdem
LONDON, ENGLAND – SEPTEMBER 18: A model walks the runway at the Erdem show during London Fashion Week September 2022 on September 18, 2022 in London, England. (Photo by Tristan Fewings\/BFC\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

This London Fashion Week is shrouded by a reverence for Queen Elizabeth II, whose state funeral is being held today<\/a>. For a designer like <\/span>Erdem Moral\u0131o\u011flu<\/a>, showing on the eve of such a momentous event presented a unique challenge. Moral\u0131o\u011flu is much loved by the royal family, Kate Middleton, the new Princess of Wales<\/a>, Meghan Markle, the Duchess of Sussex<\/a>, and Sophie, Countess of Wessex, are among his fans. How to strike a tone of solemn respect while also showing a collection that was designed months ago?<\/span><\/p>\n

As expected, Erdem hit the balance perfectly. Spring\/Summer 2023 itself was inspired by museum conservators, a less-discussed but nonetheless fascinating aspect of the art world. <\/span>\u201cI was thinking about obsession and the boundless pursuit of preservation,\u201d he told <\/span>Vogue UK<\/span><\/i> before the show. \u201cLooking at the team restoring an 18th-century gown, I became obsessed with the complex under-structures built in order to save the garment. There was something so interesting about the scientific, almost forensic intervention.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

Moral\u0131o\u011flu spent long periods of time working with the conservators at the British Museum, so it was fitting that he presented the collection in the Museum’s courtyard. It was a moving, slightly eerie setting\u2014models walked through the stone columns to a haunting orchestral soundtrack, as the sun was beginning to set. The gowns were quintessential Erdem\u2014beautifully draped, some affixed with structured bodice detailing, others with delicate floral embroidery. The hair and makeup was inspired by royal portraits.<\/span><\/p>\n

Erdem himself said he was particularly moved by the remarkable final trio of dresses, which were inspired by the tulle structures of 18th century gowns that he watched being restored by the conservators at the Victoria & Albert Museum. The delicate overlays of tulle, including cascading veils in sombre black and white tones, felt like an intentional homage to Her Majesty\u2014and yet this was entirely accidental. Erdem is a brand with a visible and loving reverence for the past, so perhaps it\u2019s no surprise that Moral\u0131o\u011flu designed the perfect clothing to mark this pivotal moment in British history. <\/span><\/p>\n

\"Erdem
LONDON, ENGLAND – SEPTEMBER 18: A model walks the runway at the Erdem show during London Fashion Week September 2022 on September 18, 2022 in London, England. (Photo by Tristan Fewings\/BFC\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Erdem
LONDON, ENGLAND – SEPTEMBER 18: A model walks the runway at the Erdem show during London Fashion Week September 2022 on September 18, 2022 in London, England. (Photo by Tristan Fewings\/BFC\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Erdem
LONDON, ENGLAND – SEPTEMBER 18: A model walks the runway at the Erdem show during London Fashion Week September 2022 on September 18, 2022 in London, England. (Photo by Tristan Fewings\/BFC\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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