{"id":27415,"date":"2022-09-15T02:53:26","date_gmt":"2022-09-14T16:53:26","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/?post_type=articles&p=220483"},"modified":"2022-09-15T10:04:45","modified_gmt":"2022-09-15T06:04:45","slug":"gabriela-hearst-spring-summer-2023","status":"publish","type":"articles","link":"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/me\/articles\/gabriela-hearst-spring-summer-2023\/","title":{"rendered":"Gabriela Hearst’s Golden Girls"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"Gabriela
NEW YORK, NEW YORK – SEPTEMBER 13: A model walks the runway during the Gabriela Hearst show as part of New York Fashion Week on September 13, 2022 in New York City. (Photo by Kristy Sparow\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

There are some fashion names that engage with empty activism as a branding exercise, and then there are brands like Gabriela Hearst<\/a>. Since her eponymous label\u2019s inception in 2015, Hearst has made genuine, meaningful advocacy a core part of her label\u2019s identity, whether it\u2019s leading the charge on conversations about sustainability, or launching high-end \u2018merch\u2019 to raise money for Planned Parenthood.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

For Spring\/Summer 2023<\/a>, a collection she unveiled in Manhattan today, Hearst doubled down on her commitment to change. Alongside supermodels models Paloma Elsesser, Kirsty Hume, and Carolyn Murphy, Hearst cast former Planned Parenthood president Cecilie Richard, climate change activist Xiye Bastida, and model-turned-toxic shock syndrome awareness campaigner Lauren Wasser. Models walked down a runway surrounded by gospel singers from the Resistance Revival Chorus, who bill themselves as \u201c<\/span>a collective of women and non-binary singers, who join together to breathe joy and song into the resistance\u201d. That idea, of resistance through joy, was so prescient that the Chorus performed a song called \u201cThis Joy\u201d.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Gabriela
NEW YORK, NEW YORK – SEPTEMBER 13: Kirsty Hume walks the runway during the Gabriela Hearst show as part of New York Fashion Week on September 13, 2022 in New York City. (Photo by Kristy Sparow\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\u201cResistance through joy\u201d is actually an apt description for the clothes themselves, some of which felt as if they\u2019d been created for battle. The opening looks featured gold breast plates, affixed onto soft black knitted dresses. Gold was recurring throughout the collection, be it slinky slip dresses, strappy flat sandals, or delicate embroidery on sharp suiting. Gold is strong and solid but turns soft and malleable when held to the flame, and fire was another key motif for S\/S \u201823. <\/span><\/p>\n

Hearst\u2019s signature oversized knit ponchos (handsewn in her native Uruguay) came in orange, and yellow, pantsuits were bold red, and fiery patterns were hand-sewn onto full-length crochet and knit dresses. The latter design evoked the burning of incense, a shape Hearst began drawing when she became inspired reading about the poet Sappho. Labelled as \u201cthe Tenth Muse\u201d, Sappho\u2019s creative energy was clearly charging through Hearst as she pulled together her latest runway offering. The power of the divine feminine was palpable.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Gabriela
NEW YORK, NEW YORK – SEPTEMBER 13: A model walks the runway during the Gabriela Hearst show as part of New York Fashion Week on September 13, 2022 in New York City. 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