{"id":19610,"date":"2022-03-03T07:57:45","date_gmt":"2022-03-02T20:57:45","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/?post_type=articles&#038;p=210339"},"modified":"2022-03-03T10:19:23","modified_gmt":"2022-03-03T06:19:23","slug":"saint-laurent-fall-winter-2022","status":"publish","type":"articles","link":"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/me\/articles\/saint-laurent-fall-winter-2022\/","title":{"rendered":"Anthony Vaccarello Switches Sensuality For Sophistication At Saint Laurent"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><iframe loading=\"lazy\" title=\"SAINT LAURENT - WOMEN&#039;S WINTER 22 SHOW\" width=\"500\" height=\"281\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/ELOW5lHywvI?feature=oembed\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" allowfullscreen><\/iframe><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Anthony Vaccarello is a designer who does things on his own terms. When he took the helm at <a href=\"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/search\/?search=saint+laurent\">Saint Laurent<\/a> in 2016, he began showing collections that were brazen\u2014scandalous, occasionally\u2014in their overt sensual appeal. Razor-short mini skirts, sky-high stilettos, corsets with daring cut-out details, vinyl PVC trousers that stuck to the leg as if they\u2019d been painted on\u2026 It was an interpretation of the Saint Laurent legacy that leaned heavily on skin and seduction. So what does the king of sexy do when the rest of the fashion industry follows suit, obsessing over all things mini, midriff-baring, and low-cut? He pares it back and turns down the heat.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">For <a href=\"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/search\/?search=fall+winter+2022\">autumn winter 2022<\/a>, a collection that the fashion critic Sarah Mower <a href=\"https:\/\/www.vogue.com\/fashion-shows\/fall-2022-ready-to-wear\/saint-laurent\" target=\"_blank\">glowingly<\/a> dubbed \u201cthe most lingeringly memorable of Anthony Vaccarello\u2019s career,\u201d the Belgian designer offered an interpretation of the YSL woman that married \u2018seduction\u2019 with a sense of understated Parisian elegance. The shift was apparent from the first look: a long cream gown styled with an oversized pea coat, and high lace-up sandals. It told a story\u2014the woman who left the party at the exact right time, threw on a trusted old coat and made her way into the Parisian night with her hands in her pockets, revealing flashes of diamonds hanging at the wrist.<\/span><\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_210340\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-210340\" style=\"width: 1024px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-210340\" src=\"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/GettyImages-1375437059.jpg\" alt=\"Saint Laurent Fall Winter 2022\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1536\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-210340\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">PARIS, FRANCE &#8211; MARCH 01: A model walks the runway during the Saint Laurent Ready to Wear Fall\/Winter 2022-2023 fashion show as part of the Paris Fashion Week on March 1, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE\/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">It was a sensibility that continued throughout the 55-look collection: oversized leather trench coats slung over sheer tulle skirts, simple cashmere rollnecks fashioned into a floor-skimming day dress (styled with layers of acrylic bangles, an homage to the British publisher <\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Nancy Cunard, who inspired the collection) <\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">and glamorous oversized faux fur coats. Of course, the perfectly-cut Le Smoking suit featured in a series of closing looks\u2014it\u2019s a long-time brand staple and still the reigning embodiment of after dark Parisian cool. The palette was an understated gradation of ivorys, silvers, and greys\u2014but the YSL girl will always reach for black, whatever the season.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The key word that sprang to mind was \u201csophistication\u201d and it did, indeed, feel as if Vaccarello had levelled up on his vision for the brand. With so many designers cloying to dress the sex-positive Gen Z-ers as they venture back into the world post-Covid, Vaccarello is making a play for a different audience. It\u2019s no coincidence that his casting featured supermodels of different ages: including his long-time muse Anja Rubik, who turns 40 next year. In a runway season that is so often awash with 20-year-old supers, this vision of quiet elegance felt refreshing. <\/span><\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_210341\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-210341\" style=\"width: 1024px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-210341\" src=\"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/GettyImages-1375486415.jpg\" alt=\"Saint Laurent Fall Winter 2022\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1537\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-210341\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">PARIS, FRANCE &#8211; MARCH 01: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY &#8211; For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Saint Laurent Womenswear Fall\/Winter 2022-2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 01, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Stephane Cardinale &#8211; Corbis\/Corbis via Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_210342\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-210342\" style=\"width: 1024px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-210342\" src=\"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/GettyImages-1375384537.jpg\" alt=\"Saint Laurent Fall Winter 2022\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1537\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-210342\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">PARIS, FRANCE &#8211; MARCH 01: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY &#8211; For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Saint Laurent Womenswear Fall\/Winter 2022-2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 01, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Peter White\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_210343\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-210343\" style=\"width: 1024px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-210343\" src=\"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/GettyImages-1375382971.jpg\" alt=\"Saint Laurent Fall Winter 2022\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1537\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-210343\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">PARIS, FRANCE &#8211; MARCH 01: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY &#8211; For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Saint Laurent Womenswear Fall\/Winter 2022-2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 01, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Peter White\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_210344\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-210344\" style=\"width: 1024px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-210344\" src=\"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/GettyImages-1375154348.jpg\" alt=\"Saint Laurent Fall Winter 2022\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1536\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-210344\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">PARIS, FRANCE &#8211; MARCH 01: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY &#8211; For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Saint Laurent Womenswear Fall\/Winter 2022-2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 01, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Francois Durand\/Getty Images)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"author":26240,"featured_media":19612,"template":"","format":"standard","categories":[65,35],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO Premium plugin v18.5 (Yoast SEO v20.4) - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Anthony Vaccarello Switches Sex For Sophistication At Saint Laurent<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"At Saint Laurent&#039;s fall winter 2022 show in Paris, creative director Anthony Vaccarello switched sex appeal for understated sophistication, in a collection heralded as one of the best of his career.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/graziamagazine.com\/me\/articles\/saint-laurent-fall-winter-2022\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" 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