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Universally touted as the ultimate powerhouse anti-ageing ingredient by skin experts, retinol has the power to smooth fine lines, plump sagging skin, reverse sun damage and clear acne. 

“Retinol really is the ‘it’ ingredient in skincare when it comes to getting amazing results for anyone concerned with ageing”

“A well-formulated retinol product is a powerful tool in your product arsenal if you want visible and tangible skin improvement” tells Emma Hobson from The Australian Dermal Institute. Retinol isn’t a one-serum-fits-all-skin product, though. Rub in the wrong strength and it can irritate. Use too little and it won’t make a significant difference at all. Cue confusion, which is why we’ve broken down the retinol basics so you can find the right one for your skin.

What exactly is retinol?
Working from the top, retinoic acid is a potent derivative of vitamin A, which you can only get with a prescription. Next there is retinol, which is readily found in off-the-shelf products and works in the same way as its more potent big sister, albeit a bit slower. Products containing pro-retinols and other less concentrated derivatives of vitamin A tend to be weaker and therefore less effective, but with regular use will still offer an array of great anti-ageing and skin-boosting benefits.

Think of retinol as your skin’s biggest cheerleader, boosting cell turnover and pepping up collagen production.

“Retinoids work by cell communication, which means they instruct living skin cells to ramp up the production of healthier, younger cells,” says Hobson. “This in turn speeds up the entire process of skin renewal. They also help reduce the breakdown of healthy collagen by UV exposure and stimulate the production of new collagen.”

Can retinol help with pigmentation and wrinkles at the same time?
Yes, it is a major multi-tasker and it doesn’t just treat one skin issue. It ticks off multiple at once. “Retinol also inhibits the production of the skin pigment melanin, which means it’s very effective on improving skin discolouration and lightening brown spots. Retinoids work from the deeper layers of the skin upwards, unlike Hydroxy Acid exfoliants. “The result of the action of retinoids is much denser, plumper, more hydrated skin with reduced wrinkle depth, improved skin tone and an overall healthier, luminous glow.”
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What’s the best way to begin a retinol regime? 
Start off using it once a week, building up from there. If you’re prone to redness, dial down the rest of your skincare to simple formulations that don’t contain any active ingredients as the combination might spark irritation.

When is the best time to use it?
Retinol is a very delicate molecule that can break down and degrade faster when exposed to heat and sunlight, so it’s best to save your retinol-based products for before bed. “Night time is the best time to apply this style of active product as this is when the skin in in its repair and regeneration mode,” explains Hobson. “It’s also important to know that you have to wear a sun screen minimum SPF30+ during the use of retinol as the skin can burn more readily in sunlight.”

Who should use retinol products?
No matter your skin type, it’s always recommended that you slowly build up retinol use over time to avoid irritation. That being said, if you have super sensitive skin, it’s safest to skip retinol all together. “Retinol is usually recommended to those with the tell-tale signs of ageing and it’s also a fantastic ingredient for treating breakouts for those suffering from acne,” explains Hobson. “Since retinol is best suited for those with visible signs of ageing, it’s ideally used by anyone in their mid to late twenties upwards (unless you’re using it for acne). However, it should always be avoided by women who are pregnant or lactating.”

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