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Nancy Wake – aka ‘The White Mouse’ – had these fabulous raven pin curls which sat beneath her titled beret. She had razor-sharp brows and wore a slick of rich red lipstick everywhere she went. She was proudly glamorous; bold, brassy and brazen when it came to her beauty look. So proud, in fact, she never went anywhere “without her Chanel lipstick.” As legend has it, she even jumped out of plane with it, along with a handgun and her favourite red satin cushion in tow.
Today in New York, just as Nancy Wake inspired Nicky Zimmermann, Wake’s strong, stylish aesthetic also inspired Renya Xydis and Jodie Boland. The Hair and Makeup Director for Zimmermann’s Fall 19 show tapped the tough femininity of Wake and her women, creating a beauty look that riffed on the revolutionaries of yesteryear: unashamedly glamorous, bold and provocative, much like their muse. The girls were not afraid to show their colours; they wore their graphic eye like a badge of honour, their berets like armour. Both beauty directors were intent on translating this point, as the coiffure told a tale of espionage (with the beret a nod to Nancy’s) and the makeup strong and structured.
Like its utilitarian trenches and bonded drill bombers, the beauty look was a resilient one, evoking this mood of subterfuge and sabotage. But it also sat with softness. A sensual confidence transpired; beneath her hooded anorak she wore billowing antique florals and tiered satin. Her hair was raked gently with fingers. Her lips soft and stained. A woman who knows the power of her femininity and how to transform it on a whim; this was Nicky Zimmermann’s army, her modern day Nancy Wake. She wears what she wants, she does as she pleases, and most importantly, she fights for what she believes in. We think The White Mouse, in her red Chanel lipstick, would be proud.
Here, we chat exclusively to Xydis and Boland about the hair and makeup looks, who inspires them and what really makes the Zimmermann girl tick (when it comes to beauty).
Renya Xydis for Wella
What is the hair look?
It is sexy and provocative, with a French Spy, It-Girl feel. It has a finger wave through it. The hair covers one eye giving it an edge and making it quite cool.
What has inspired you?
Nicky and the collection. She is the one who has the eye and she translates that to me. There is always that Zimmermann texture and vibe, which is sexy and represents the Zimmermann girl who is independent, strong, and feminine. I always try to bring that to the show styles, and this season the hair is a little cheeky as well.
When arriving at these looks, how is Nicky involved in the creative process for makeup and hair at all?
She is involved in it a lot but it is also a collaboration with the wider team. We start talking in Sydney and then I come and look at the collection for inspiration. There is a lot of discussion back and forth between everyone involved. Then when I come to New York we spend days together perfecting the look.
What are the key products?
Perfect Me, Perfect Setting, Glam Mist and Mistify me life – all Wella Professional products.
How can we achieve this look at-home? And what is one trick we can use to try this look?
Go to Valonz! You have to part your hair on the left hand side and put Wella Professionals Perfect Setting at the crown. With your comb do an s bend and pop bobby pins in the curves of the hair. Put a dryer or diffuser on it and then just come back and take it out.
To you, who is the Zimmermann girl? What are her signature hair / beauty moves? What defines her?
Effortless, sexy, beautiful, independent and strong. She is a cool girl.
If she could only pick one product, what would she use?
Perfect setting and Perfect Me – I don’t have just one!
Jodie Boland for bobbi brown
What is the makeup look?
The makeup look is a very cool, flawless, feminine look with strength and structure. We’re doing a very cool graphic eye that works with the collection.
What has inspired you?
The collection of course inspires me and Nicky’s vision.
When arriving at these looks, how is Nicky involved in the creative process for makeup and hair at all?
Nicky is involved with all of the process, we could not do our creations without her vision or amazing eye to detail.
What are the key products?
My key products are all Bobbi brown.
Skin – long wear weightless foundation.
Skin highlighter – illuminating moisture balm.
Eye- long wear gel eyeliner and smokey eye mascara.
Lips – crushed liquid lipstick.
Eyebrows – perfectly defined eyebrow pencil.
Contour – Bronzing powder lightly.
How can we achieve this look at-home? And what is one trick we can use to try this look?
The eye would be the strongest look! Use the Bobbi Brown long wear gel eyeliner and first create the graphic line at outer edge of both eyes, then work the liner towards the inner eye and fill in. Use an angled brush to create the look. Have pointed cue tips and a non oily toner to clean up where you make mistakes.
To you, who is the Zimmermann girl? What are her signature hair / beauty moves? What defines her?
What defines a Zimmermann girl is a strong, confident, brave, cool woman that knows who she is. Inside and out!
If she could only pick one product, what would she use?
I can’t say one product, I’ll give 3 Bobbi Brown products I love! But there are so many more!
Illuminating moisture balm, Bronzing powder, Crushed liquid lips & Mascara
Skin always seems imperative to the Zimmermann girl, what skin prep is involved?
Moisturising Face sheets if we have time but always a good moisturiser, highlighter and body sheen.
Even in winter, Zimmermann always seems to capture an eternal summer, with healthy glowing girls. How?
Nicky’s collections are always so unbelievably beautiful, every piece is cool with an edge! So we feel like the girl wearing Zimmerman is always confident, powerful, looking healthy, fresh and glowing. Skin is so important to the Zimmermann girl, inside and out!
