It may have been grey and wet in New York, but inside the Proenza Schouler show the sartorial sun was shining, as the designer launched its colourful new collaboration with Lancôme via a very apt canvas – the beautiful faces of icons both old and new (Karen Elson, Amber Valletta, Kaia Gerber).
Making their return to New York Fashion Week following a 2-year hiatus in Paris, designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez celebrated the homecoming with news of their new limited-edition beauty line, which features a 4-in-1 kajal, a beautiful cushion highlighter and a pretty epic eye palette.
“Like art supplies for your face,” the limited-edition Chroma collection is a strong tilt at the Proenza aesthetic, with abstraction and art keynote, both in the branding and the colour way. On the outside, swoops of striking magenta, electric orange and bold cobalt are spliced artfully, whilst inside, ultra-pigmented colour makes for some clever beauty colour-blocking. Even Lancôme’s iconic lipstick, L’Absolu Rouge, has been given the Proenza treatment – bold, graphic and directional.
Yet, on yesterday’s runway, colour was contained, as raw skin reigned – a signature beauty trope of the brand. Makeup artist Lisa Eldridge simply took to model faces with dabs of the new Cushion Highigher and Lip Kajal in a soft, juicy pink. For the designers who are “anti-foundation,” skin remained clean and almost untouched, with sculpted brows the strongest part of the look. It was New York beauty personified, that downtown irreverence immortalised on the runway.
A little teaser of what’s to come, the Proenza Schouler x Lancôme Chroma Collection launches in Australia this October.