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It would be a miss to underplay the inextricable connection between fashion and film.
While the most apparent link comes in the form of memorable on-screen costuming or even masterful sartorial displays on the red carpet from movie stars themselves, it seems that more than ever designers themselves are looking to these iconic pop culture moments for inspiration.
Of course, referencing a film in one’s collection is an enduring trope explored by everyone from Alessandro Michele for Gucci’s Stanley Kubrick-inspired Exquisite Gucci campaign to emerging designer Conner Ives who recreated the iconic Elizabeth James wedding dress from Nancy Meyer’s The Parent Trap in his Fall/Winter 2023 collection.
Now, one of the most pertinent symbols of fashion’s relationship with film, Julia Roberts’ red dress from Pretty Woman, has undergone this same treatment, with the crimson-hued ball gown making its debut at Paris Fashion Week.
In Vetements’ 78-piece Spring/Summer 2024 collection, creative director Guram Gvasalia offered a moment of reprieve amongst his avant-garde and streetwear-coded offering by recreating the iconic gown.
Everything, from the bicep grazing white opera gloves to the billowing train and even the red heart necklace adorning Roberts’ neck in the film, served as a complete homage.
As if painstakingly recreated from rewatching Pretty Woman for hours, Gvasalia didn’t miss a single detail, however, made a few contemporary adjustments including moving the knotted and draped waist wrap to the side and ruching the material along the bodice of the dress to create a cascading effect.
Sadly, Vetements did prevent us from the opportunity of seeing Roberts recreate the moment on the runway, with the collection presented on mannequins in lieu of models. Big mistake, huge.
In the original 1990s romcom, Roberts dons this dress for a date night with Richard Gere’s Edward, marking her ascent from escort to bona fide love interest.
The scene between Roberts and Gere, especially the improvised moment of Roberts’ hand getting shut in the necklace case, has garnered its cult following partly due to the cultural impact of the gown itself.
While the gown’s designer, Marilyn Vance, didn’t win any awards (though she was nominated for a BAFTA in 1990), the dress has transcended the film in its own way, leading to countless interpretations.
With Vetements memorialising it in their SS24 collection, it’s clear that Vivienne’s impact is far from over. We didn’t need another excuse to rewatch Pretty Woman, but Gvasalia handed us one on a silver platter anyway.
