Marc Jacobs is undoubtably the jewel in the New York Fashion Week crown. The American designer has traditionally closed the week for years now, never failing to put together a show that delivers fashion, beauty and big model moments in spades. Backstage this year was no different to last season (albeit much colder), with Pat McGrath on makeup and Guido Palau for Redken heading up hair. With 90 models and dancers (plus one Miley Cyrus), each individual had their very own look. But the two common threads that wove it all together? Red lipstick and black eyeliner.
Backstage, McGrath stood in the centre of the room while journalists crowded like bees to honey, iPhones outstretched trying to capture each and every word as if it were gospel (because as far as beauty is concerned, it is). With GRAZIA among the hoards, McGrath told us the show was a “exploration of individuality”, using two timeless products to create a melange of beauty looks. Some girls had a strong, opaque red, whereas others had soft, blurred colour. As for liner, there were thick cat-like wings (read: Bella), sooty black rings of smudged Marc Jacobs Beauty Highliner Gel Eye Crayon, or geometric-futuristic shapes like the above.
For Jacobs, the show was a dedication to women he admired – both past, present and future – so it made sense that for McGrath, it was paramount that beauty hit all of the same touch points. As McGrath put it, “when you think of black eyeliner and red lipstick, you think of all time periods.” From the powdery red lips of Marie Antoinette to the slept-in black liner of an early ’00s Kate Moss, there really is no beginning and end when it comes to the above.
For Palau, hair was similarly a celebration of all that is different. We saw gritty texture, winding braids, deep side parts, sky high blow-outs and brilliant bouffants on Bella Hadid. It was a mix of “richness and realness” to use Palau’s words. And true to the Marc Jacobs DNA, there were elements of uptown girls and downtown girls in the mix. “we’re doing a lot,” Palau also told the crowd. “Every girl looks different. There’s a lot to be done.”
Palau used a mix of Redken products to finish all 90 models, including favourite Redken Triple Dry Texture Finish Spray. Hair aside, we saw weighty headbands, feathery big bird hats and shaggy lengths peeping out from underneath headscarves. And who could forget Miley, who stormed the runway with abs that could grate a block of cheese and a shaggy yellow mullet? Not us, that’s for sure.
In true Marc Jacobs style, it was the greatest way to wrap up New York Fashion Week: with style, glamour, skill and grand excess. Now excuse us all while we sleep for a week ahead of Milan and Paris!