Wearable, living art and moveable sculpture – Jonathan Anderson continues to blur the boundaries between creative disciplines with the Loewe Spring-Summer 2023 pre-collection campaign lensed by the inimitable Juergen Teller.
Taking the idea of art-is-fashion-is-art to a meta level, the campaign also features artists and creatives from multiple disciplines, including Call Me By Your Name and Bones And All (starring Timothée Chalamet and Michael Stuhlbarg) director Luca Guadagnino, Chloë Sevigny and actresses Taylor Russell and Tang Wei. It’s a merger of talent that share the same ideals that Anderson has explored during his tenure at Loewe: how art, in all its expressions, is a thing of beauty in itself.
Through Teller’s lens, the humour that Anderson has been known to bring to his runways – from the deliberate warping of silhouettes to the surreal reinvisioning of everyday items into something to be adorned with – is given a sense of humanity. Runways are one thing, but the fashion works best in-situ and Teller is the master of the sparse reality and of getting his models to interact with their clothing and surroundings in a raw, humanistic manner.
It provides the perfect balance to the fantasy that Anderson explores. It’s not many photographers who could make LED screens displaying Polaroids look like something you can wear to grab the milk. Or the pleasure of a dress festooned with balloon-like proportions.
The campaign also features items from Chinese Monochrome collection which takes for its inspiration the ancient ceramic techniques of China’s Ming and Qing dynasties. These ceramics, prized among art collectors and historians, were known for their precise elegance and represent centuries of persistent refinement of the craft from generations of artisans. Some of these ancient pieces appear on ready-to-wear garments such as t-shirts and sweaters alongside bags that replicate the delicate colours used in the ceramics.
Since joining Loewe back in 2013, Anderson has brought a sense of surrealness to the world of fashion, playfully fusing silhouettes with objects and reframing the way we perceive fashion to work. All of it, from Anderson’s collections to his collaborations, are an expansion of Loewe’s connection to art, from the Loewe Art Collection to the Loewe Foundation Craft Prize.