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If anyone knows how to put on a good runway show its Simon Porte Jacquemus, the visionary wunderkind behind the beloved French label Jacquemus. The designer has staged Instagram-breaking runway shows in fields of lavender and rolling hills filled with wheat, so when he announced his Spring Summer ’23 collection would debut as a love letter to raffia, the internet was justifiably excited. Staged in Le Bourget, a suburb in the northeast of Paris, ‘LE RAPHIA’ saw models stomp down a muted beige runway while a soft smattering of raffia “rain” fell around them. It was quintessential Jacquemus showmanship: schtick done chic.
The clothes were an extension of the brand’s well-established design signatures: elevated resortwear in soft linens, tailoring with sexy cut-outs, sheer shrunken cardigans, and flirty beachside prints on artfully wrapped dresses and flirt micro mini skirts. There were chic printed capri trousers worn with open blazers that tied delicately at the bust, coats were oversized and deconstructed, Margiela-style, and oversized woven motifs appeared on cute vest and short sets. Jacquemus has always been a master of accessories, and this season saw the revival of his iconic super-sized sunhat silhouette, this time bigger than ever and paired with giant sunflower earrings and ludicrously oversized fluffy top handle totes.
Having garnered a cult following over the last decade, Jacquemus attracted a predictably buzzy front row. The who’s who of Parisian It-girls were there, including Jeanne Damas, Adèle Exarchopoulos, Tina Kunakey, and Sophie Marceau, as were internet favourites like Emma Chamberlain, Iris Law and Christine Quinn. The most unexpected addition was a resplendent Pamela Anderson in a figure-hugging white gown, sheer gloves, and a dramatic oversized sun hat. It had shades of Marilyn Manroe in all the right (read: high camp) ways, and was the perfect reminder of just how fabulous Jacquemus continues to be.
