Sometimes the fashion industry has a tendency to over-intellectualise their approach to design. Yes, it’s fantastic that your collection is inspired by a lesser-known art house film from the turn of the 20th century. But are the clothes the kind that women will fall over themselves to wear? Isabel Marant is a designer who has always fallen on the right side of that equation, creating clothes that are rooted in the reality of women’s lives.
At this moment in time, for instance, dreams of a month spent lounging around some steamy Ibiza resort, finding oneself on the dance floor into the early hours of the morning, are still tantalising—no matter which corner of the globe you find yourself in. And so Isabel Marant’s Spring/Summer 2022 collection was an ode to just that: an array of chic, beach-to-club party looks that blended brand staples with bold new silhouettes.
Presenting the collection at the Palais-Royal in Paris last night, Marant’s SS22 outing was pure Parisian fun. There were twists on usual Marant pieces, like the crystal-embellished denim, slouchy printed jumpsuits, and lacey crochet day dresses. But there were new additions too: a super-luxe take on the silk tracksuit, kitschy low-slung board shorts, tie-dyed overalls and metallic three quarter trousers. Marant even got in on the “new sexy” craze, creating metallic wrap-around bikini tops, styled over T-shirts and under shrunken embroidered waist coats. Men’s bomber jackets were dyed in ombre citrus hues to mirror the setting sun, and looks were finished off with oversized raffia tote bags (slung casually under the arm), oversized hoop earrings and chunky rope choker necklaces.
The collection felt like the quintessential European summer wardrobe mishmash—something picked up from a local artisan, a jokey purchase from a tourist shop—down to the sun-kissed tan and earnest grins models sported down the runway. “It’s full summer,” Marant said in an interview after the show. “I really wanted to have super healthy, sporty, beautiful women with a lot of skin and legs—like always.” An endless summer never looked so good.