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The design duo Eckhaus Latta are a kind of walking contradiction: they’re still touted as an ‘emerging brand to watch’ by fashion types (their designs often pop up on an off-duty Bella Hadid or an on-screen Euphoria character), and yet—after a decade in the business—they’re one of New York’s most established independent fashion labels. Designers Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta explored that tension point at their fall winter ‘22 show, a 10-year anniversary collection that charted new ground while also celebrating signature styles and silhouettes.
“It’s 10 years, but this wasn’t meant to be too self-reflective,” Eckhaus told WWD post show, with Latta adding: “We weren’t trying to nod to any one thing we’ve done, more so to our approach.” The show was staged at the now-abandoned Essex Street Market, a location choice that was riddled with symbolism. Once dubbed “New York City’s most historic public market”, Essex Street was a hub for the eclectic and diverse community of the Lower East Side for more than a century. Now, the remnants of the market are set to be demolished to make way for a block of luxury apartments. The Eckhaus Latta show may well be one of the last events ever staged there.
This idea, of celebrating the sacredness of community was a thread that existed throughout the presentation. Alongside traditional models, Eckhaus and Latta tapped long-time friends and muses to walk in the show, including the actress Hari Nef, the fashion designer Maryam Nassir Zadeh, and the model-turned-fashion supernova Paloma Elsesser. Each has a unique history with the brand. Nef was cast in one of Eckhaus Latta’s earliest runway shows, and was signed with a modelling agency soon after, while Nassir Zadeh has watched her own brand rise to the highest ranks of global acclaim on a similar trajectory, having also been one of the Eckhaus Latta’s earliest stockists.
As for the fashion, it was a potent mix of reworked staples from the Eckhaus Latta archives. Deconstructed denim and dip-dyed shirts have been EL’s cult-status pieces since their inception, and this time the tops appeared sheer and asymmetric and the denim was hyper-distressed (Noughties renaissance, eat your heart out) or baggy and low-slung. Knitwear was a stand-out, be it barely-there pieces made of thin yarn that resembled spider’s webs, or the clingy burgundy sets with statement fringing. And nothing says ‘post-pandemic party’ quite like the ‘chunky knits tucked into sheer sequin-embellished wrap skirts’ combination you’ve no doubt seen all over Instagram.
On the off-chance you weren’t convinced that Eckhaus Latta’s clothes are firmly rooted in the present (and future), the brand celebrated their milestone year with—what else?—an exclusive collection of NFTs. Unveiled at a buzzy post-show party, the collection is a partnership with the cryptocurrency Ponyo Impact and features 10 iconic looks from 10 different archival collections, illustrated by the artist Leeseongil. Proceeds from the sale of the Eckhaus Latta NFTs will go to Bottomless Closet, a charity that helps women of lesser means get access to professional clothes for job interviews. Granted, we may not yet fully understand what a high-fashion NFT actually is, but at least it’s going to a good cause.
