There are few brands as poised for the Y2K renaissance as Dolce & Gabbana. They are, after all, the living, breathing embodiment of Noughties gauche-chic, their 00s designs synonymous with the fashion of the period, be it Paris Hilton wearing their colour-blocked dresses, or a young Gisele Bündchen taking to the runway in 2002. In 2021, the TikTok generation are suddenly rediscovering the brand’s archive, which sells like hot cakes on Depop, eBay and beyond. With Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana’s deft touch, leopard print layered over rose print, finished with thigh-high boots and lashings of crystal never felt so right. 

And so for Spring/Summer 22, a collection presented on a long mirrored runway at the Metropol in Milan this evening, the designers raided their Spring/Summer 2000 collection, updating archive pieces and reinventing old staples for the elusive Gen-Z. Those references came courtesy of exposed G-strings and bralettes, flirty embellished mini skirts, lingerie-style lace blouses, and camo cargo pants. This, mixed with embellished denim sets (the Canadian tuxedo by way of Milan), zebra-print shirts with outrageous architectural sleeves, and little sequin mini dresses. 

There was a welcome tribute to Jennifer Lopez, another icon who remains as relevant in 2021 as she did in 2000, courtesy of sequin-embellished and tie-dyed ‘band’ T-shirts. Lopez partnered with Dolce & Gabbana for a charity auction to raise money for Global Citizen on the same evening as the Milanese show. All up, the collection made a compelling case for the neo-sexy dressing that Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons revealed in their history-making collection for Prada.

As we stride into the second so-called ‘Roaring 20s’, Dolce & Gabbana’s unapologetically glamorous sensibility feels right for now. Criticisms that the show could have embraced a more diverse casting are certainly valid—Nicole Phelps asserted in Vogue that “sexy comes in all sizes”—although Dolce & Gabbana shouldn’t be singled out for this critique. The diversity of casting in almost all fashion shows at Milan this season has been found wanting. 

thoughts?