Bella Hadid backstage at DIOR Cruise 2017
Credit: Courtesy of DIOR

Of all the makeup conundrums, is there any one more mysterious than the smoky eye? Every eye shape requires their own specific shade relationship, set of shadow placement-placement requirements and every expert has a different list of smoky eye questions: Where should each shade go? How far out do you blend? And let us not get into the matte or shimmery debate. 


Thankfully we can trust make-up artist Peter Philips and Dior to shed light on the smokey eye labyrinth. The Creative and Image Director for Dior Make Up did away with the meticulously mapped-out eye rules at the Cruise 2017 show, showing us that magic can be made with just one shade.

“I used the deep bronze shade from the 5 Couleurs palette Parisian Sky, which I applied as a colour-block in a single sweep over the entire eyelid, from the lash root to the eyebrows. This extreme look was chosen to contrast with the Baroque beauty of the décor.”

While such rich, colour-blocked lids might be slightly tricky to pull off away from the grand rooms of Blenheim Palace, Philips’ modern message of using a single shade to make a serious impact, is one that can easily translate to real life. Essentially the same eye make-up rule applies no matter the number of shades; simply blend up and out to lift and widen the eyes, concentrate the darkest point along the lash line for added definition and drama, and blend out the edges with a clean brush to ensure there are no harsh lines. 

Backstage at Dior Cruise 2017
Credit: Courtesy of Dior

Pay particular attention to your base too, as stronger eyes will always highlight any imperfections. Take a cue from Philips who added structure to Bella and the model’s faces with a little subtle contouring.


“After evening out the complexion with Diorskin Forever Fluid Foundation, I created shape by gently contouring with the DiorBlush Light & Contour jumbo stick. Applied to the hollows of the cheeks as well as the parts of the face that catch the light, its two shades enabled us to emphasize the architecture of the face in a nuanced and transparent way,” he explained. “As a finishing touch, I applied just a hint of iridescent Diorskin Nude Air Luminizer. This make-up, blended gradually in a “pointillist” style, provided a natural and luminous result.”

Philips used products from Dior’s Fall 2016 make-up collection, which will be on-counter and online July 25th.

Cruise 2017, Dior show Backstage
Dior Make-up created and styled by Peter Philips.
Photography: Vincent Lappartient for Christian Dior Parfums