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Without being too on the nose, REMAIN’s Spring/Summer 2024 runway show was a chance for poignant reflection. Of course, when you stage your collection presentation in a hall of mirrors, this parallel of personal introspection is bound to be drawn.
Fitting out the marbled checkerboard floors and clinical white gallery space of O—Overgaden, one of Denmark’s leading non-profit art institutes, REMAIN matched the paired-back space with their minimally streamlined collection of sleek tailored staples, subverted corporate essentials and boxy silhouettes that blurs the line between women and men’s wear.
Given that Copenhagen Fashion Week is ubiquitously the most sustainable fashion week in the world—every participating designer must adhere to 18 stringent sustainable requirements—the nuanced display of new suiting through a muted colour palette and refined simplicity proved to provide a moment of contemplation.
This sartorial blank canvas, which when presented in front of a mirror with your reflection staring back at yourself, made you consider the extravagance consumption of the industry.
More so than ever, designers are operating under a modus operandi of grandiosity. Often relying on theatrics and virality, Remain’s decisively curated edit of anything-but-basic pieces highlighted the need for a touch of respite in a busy week.
Away from the frills and cheap thrills, all that remained at REMAIN, was a workwear redux rooted in clever details and hidden moments.
Eschewing the bombastic spectacles often seen on the runway, REMAIN sought solace in the everyday minutia.
These are pieces that can be worn from the boardroom to the bar and beyond, but are rooted in subversive twists like ruched waists, elongated flared trousers, boned outerwear, delicate embroidery or soft, playful pleating.
It’s in each of these elements that REMAIN invites the wearer to embrace their innate individualism, encouraging a state of expression through unexpected pairing and layering.
In seeking a fresh start, REMAIN—a brand hailing from Copenhagen’s oldest fashion house, Briger Christensen—has made maximalist Scandi fashion anew.
