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Theatrics has always underscored flirty Italian label Blumarine—or at least the contemporary version as nascent fashion aficionados know it for. Indeed, despite the luxuriate originating in 1977 Modena, it’s the recent Y2K McBling-inspired collections designed by wunderkind Nicola Brognano that resulted in a renaissance for the brand–an upward trajectory which handent been seen since the late 90s and early 2000s themselves.
His butterfly-laden Spring/Summer 2022 collection, which was presented at the tail end of the COVID-19 pandemic, capsulated the earning for mall-culture nostalgia and resulted in a slew of Gen-Z acolytes. Subsequent collections, including the drape and denim-laded SS24 show that eschewed mermaidcore for deep water sirens, the fiery Joan of Arc range from FW23 and his finale angelic SS24 presentation, cemented his creations as catnip for the digital age.
But following the cliffhanger following his departure, it was newly-appointed creative director Walter Chiapponi, who had moved from Tod’s for the position, who resolved this scene. Chiapponi has deep roots with the label, cutting his teeth under founder Anna Molinari from 2001-2005. Returning to his scene, Chiaponni didn’t rely on novelty, but a type of drama sincere to the house’s original codes: romance. As opposed to anything too revealing, Chiapponi’s seduction was more earnest and bucolic. (Albeit of the Emilio Reggiano variety, which is inherently more cosmopolitan).
Under Chiapponi’s helm, the Belle of the Blumarine ball isn’t dripping in the delicious sleaze of yore. Now, the repertoire feels more sensitive, similar to the gentle luxury Chiapponi presented during his time at Tod’s, though far less austere. (No less dramatic though, as the sounds of Baz Luhrmann’s Romeo + Juliet echoed over the runway.)
The opening look evoked the indie sleaze coquettishness, à la Alexa Chung, that underpinned the range; a calf-length leopard-print coat made seemingly made from a short-length hair, a candy apple sequin long sleeve rendered in a varsity cut, satin floral boxers with a black lace trim and floral ballooned mules held together with a bowtie. This soft melange of femininity continued throughout—in the sumptuous leather shirt jackets, animal print stockings, mesh shirts embroidered with botanics and bubblegum pink pom poms hanging from knitted sets.
Lines were as clean and soft as the bubbly yellow cashmere shirts and baby blue onesies. A parade of satin shoes, classic tailoring punctuated by sequin gemstones and nouveau clout goggles will no doubt be in the closets of seasoned eccentric ‘It’ girls like Devon Lee Carlson, Emma Chamberlain and Mia Regan.
Yes, this is Blumarine all grown up; the TikTok algorithms may miss the viral bedazzled pieces, but these looks will no doubt soon by all over Pinterest boards. Preserving Blumarine’s cinematic universe was a Sleeping Beauty-inspired floral pyjama set styled with a bouquet and matching sleeping mask. As ‘The Bard’, the original dramaturgist, said: all’s well that ends well.
