Down Alice’s opulent rabbit hole we went, with a souped-up, saccharine affair at Alice McCall Resort 18.
A delicious juxtaposition of diaphanous tinsel, faded brocades, shirred lamés, spidery laces and flocked tulles – it was a candied and colourful eruption with a subversive undercurrent. She plays nice, but has that flicker in her eye. “Like a lovely rose in its last days, it’s about to wilt but it smells so heady,” says Alice.
“There is no sugar without spice.”
Such was the case with makeup, as M.A.C Senior Artist, Nicole Thompson conjured up delicious confections of berry, tea rose, aubergine – and “messed it up”.
Canvassing an artful rendition of chunky lashes, tea-stained lids and untouched skin, Alice’s girls took us to a faraway land of damsels and disco balls. Here, the takeaway trends to take heed of, naughty or nice.
Takeaway Trend #1: Chunky lashes
“It’s all about the eyes; smudgy, mushroom-y, aubergine, chunky, chunky lashes. Some individual lashes popped in haphazardly; you don’t notice that they’re there but they’re adding just a bit more volume and they’re all placed in in weird angles. We’ve made the lash a really great aubergine colour – you get them really chunky, really heavy but not dark – so it’s not making them too grungy and still has a bit of femininity about it.”
Takeaway Trend #2: Pink Eye
“Get the pink eye – this one’s not contagious! All these tones of reds and pink, that’s not going to stop for a while. And those pink colours work underneath, too. When you look forward and you see that colour straight away, it brings out your eye colour, more than wearing it on top. You see underneath first.”
Takeaway Trend #3: Untouched Skin
“Skin we’re trying to leave it as untouched as we possibly can. I’m having a Face and Body renaissance. So Face and Body with hands all over, then moisturiser on hands afterwards and pressing it on top. It takes off the top layer of the foundation so you reveal any freckles or nice imperfections you want to see. Tying to not touch the skin as much as possible is a complete theme throughout the week. How little can you put on the face – it’s all about the statements of makeup.”
The Hero: M.A.C Driftwood
“The base colour for both looks is a lipstick called Driftwood, which is kind of a grey mauve. I’ve used that on the eyes and rubbed that into the lips. It’s our base tone that we’re working from, so even if they have different looks, it’s all the same tone. It’s a tonal continuity.”
“The main tool for application is your finger – your pinky finger! We’re using our hands mostly for application because it stops it going on too heavy and you actually build up the coverage.”
Fashion Week Forecast: Individuality
“I think you’re going to hear a lot of the word ‘individuality’ this week. The casting is very much like that, they’re not casting the same girl which is so cool – it’s not one type of girl, it’s not ‘The Aussie Girl’, the girls can be anyone, which is why we’re going to play around with the makeup looks. If they’re really blonde or really pale, we’re going to mess them up even more, really rub it in so it doesn’t look too dolly. If they’ve got darker hair, we might not need to do as much. So kind of pushing and pulling depending on the look of the girl and what suits their face.”