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There has been a renaissance of all things late ‘90s and early 2000s in fashion as of late. So it’s no surprise that on-the-rise London-based designer Priya Ahluwalia took inspiration from the music (and style) icons of that era for her eponymous label’s Fall/Winter 2023 show. Debuting as part of London Fashion Week this afternoon, Ahluwalia F/W ‘23 was a loving ode to Sade, Lauryn Hill, Tupac, 50 Cent, Luther Vandross and more—the artists who most influenced the designer’s childhood.
“Over the last two years, especially when I’ve been doing more films, and my first two runway shows, it’s made me really think about what Ahluwalia sounds like, and what music means for me as creative and for the brand,” the designer told press before the show. The end result was a co-ed fashion show chocked-full of looks that wouldn’t look out of place on an MTV red carpet circa 1999. Think: double denim, dresses with dramatic hoods, colour-blocked mini dresses with statement ruffle sleeves, and sportswear-inspired suiting. Wave prints—a brand staple—mirrored the sound waves of some of the designer’s favourite songs, and appeared on sporty shirts and casual day dresses.
The inspiration may have been nostalgic but the end result was anything but. Ahluwalia has built a reputation as one of London’s most exciting new names, thanks in large part to her ability to deftly weave references—including many to her own Nigerian-Indian heritage—into clothing that feels modern and fresh. For F/W ‘23 her empire expanded ever further, including the debut of Ahluwalia footwear. ‘A’ logos appeared on shoes, belt buckles, and as charms dangling from some of the dresses. It’s is a move that showcases the designer’s ambition for her brand, but F/W ‘23 was the latest signifier that her plans for global domination are well-founded.
