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DISTRESSED DENIM BLAZER, INJURY, SHOP SIMILAR. SIMONE BROOCH, AGMES, SHOP NOW. RV PEARLS BROOCH, ROGER VIVIER, SHOP SIMILAR
Craftsmanship is at the heart of several designer collections this season. In a time of fast-tracking and accessibility, traditional artisanal techniques like appliqué, smocking and re-purposing fashion have been reinvigorated for the every day. Take a look.
LEFT: FACE CORSET, RUBY PEDDER, SHOP NOW. CARNELIAN 18K GOLD-FINISH STERLING SILVER EARRINGS, BOTTEGA VENETA, SHOP SIMILAR. RIGHT: DRESS, SHOP SIMILAR, BOOTS, SHOP SIMILAR, MINI BACKPACK, SHOP SIMILAR, PRADA
LOOK 1 & 2
The value of good craftsmanship in the hands of a skilled craftsperson is more precious than ever. In Europe, the element of craft has long been central to high fashion and couture. At Prada we saw patch-work, distressed leathers and deconstructed ribbons, the latter seen here in the form of a ballerina pink silk dress. Ruby Pedder, an emerging Australian designer and recent winner of the 2024 Ubank Feel-Good Fashion Fund prefers to channel couture with the spirit of modern punk. She takes the traditional techniques of corsetry and smocking, then screen-prints images to create contemporary chaos.
FACE CORSET, RUBY PEDDER, SHOP NOW
LOOK 3
Experimenting with fashion by way of old practices like embroidery and hand-printing and then also adopting a modern spin or “rave wear in an artisanal way” is what Pedder is all about, To her, it’s a form of respecting traditions while also celebrating creativity and diversity. Designer Weave Dibden Neck of By Weave Collection notes, “achieving quality takes time [and] creating something needs attention. The idea of tailoring is a harmony of where it came from, how much time goes into the recipe, where the fibres come from, who made it and the joy it will bring.”
LEFT: TWIST DRESS, SPEED, SHOP SIMILAR. LEATHER GLOVES, MIU MIU, SHOP SIMILAR. DRAGON HEELS, MATEA GLUSEVIC, SHOP NOW. JEWEL EFFLORESCENCE MINI BAG IN TWEED, ROGER VIVIER, SHOP SIMILAR. RIGHT: FACE CORSET, RUBY PEDDER, SHOP NOW. CARNELIAN 18K GOLD-FINISH STERLING SILVER EARRINGS, BOTTEGA VENETA, SHOP SIMILAR. BOOTS, FENDI, SHOP SIMILAR
LOOK 4 & 5
Perhaps the return to crafting is a reaction to the digital age, mass production on machines and AI, to the point where we’ve lost touch with how things are made. A return to the attention and detail that goes into an outfit or a pair of shoes to make it unique, but also something you’ll cherish wearing for years to come. Take footwear designer Matea Gluscevic for example, who’s dragon heels above draw on historical aesthetics, melding the past and present with an innovation that defies any commercial trend. Or as Gluscevic likes to say, “it’s more than just footwear, it’s a bold and creative journey captured in every stitch.”
LEFT: CARNELIAN 18K GOLD-FINISH STERLING SILVER EARRINGS, BOTTEGA VENETA, SHOP SIMILAR. CALADIUM JACKET PETROL, CARL KAPP, SHOP SIMILAR. RIGHT: STAINED GLASS BLOUSE, ANGELICA MARIA, SHOP SIMILAR. TWIST DRESS, SPEED, SHOP SIMILAR. LEATHER GLOVES, MIU MIU, SHOP SIMILAR. BELT, JR HARVEY, SHOP SIMILAR
LOOK 6 & 7
Designer Angelica Maria, a recent graduate from UTS Fashion and Textiles, creates all her garments by hand in her 101-year-old home on a citrus farm in Somersby, New South Wales. The designer takes pride in carefully sourcing deadstock, second-hand materials and natural fibres. Her knitwear is constructed on a 1970s domestic knitting machine to not only honour the past but to keep in tune with slow production methods. Her work is heavily inspired by suburban Australian motifs merged with traditional Greek archetypes as seen here in an applique “stained glass” denim top. I personally loved how she elevates denim and tailoring, something I’d gravitate to wear on any occasion.
LIGHT COTTON FRISE SHIRT, SHOP SIMILAR, FULL GRAIN SUEDE LEATHER SKIRT, SHOP SIMILAR, SOFT NAPPA INTRECCIATO LEATHER GLOVES, SHOP SIMILAR, CARNELIAN 18K GOLD-FINISH STERLING SILVER EARRINGS, SHOP SIMILAR, PUMP LOAFERS IN CROC-EFFECT CALFSKIN, SHOP SIMILAR, BOTTEGA VENETA
LOOK 8
The small details are what runs through Bottega Veneta’s DNA. The Italian luxury house specialises in handwork and tailoring with an innovation and design code in a class of its own. When we talk about handbags, we might think of Bottega Veneta’s signature Intrecciato weave but recent styles use reversible textured leather strips printed to look similar to banana leaves and are inspired by basket weaving and then shaped to look like a clam shell. The house’s creative director Matthieu Blazy has enthusiastically mused, “How can we push savoir faire?” In other words, how do you innovate the know-how while still keeping the human touch so the wearer feels the care and attention that went into the creation?
LEFT: LIGHT COTTON FRISE SHIRT, SHOP SIMILAR, FULL GRAIN SUEDE LEATHER SKIRT, SHOP SIMILAR, SOFT NAPPA INTRECCIATO LEATHER GLOVES, SHOP SIMILAR, CARNELIAN 18K GOLD-FINISH STERLING SILVER EARRINGS, SHOP SIMILAR, BOTTEGA VENETA. RIGHT: COAT, MAX MARA, SHOP SIMILAR. VERDANT TASSEL TWIST DRESS, CHRISTOPHER ESBER, SHOP SIMILAR. LOAFERS, MIU MIU, SHOP SIMILAR
LOOK 9
Texture and tactility are two words synonymous with craftsmanship. We’re seeing plenty of fringing, crochet, tassels and unfinished hems on the runways, all great looks to build your outfit around. Take this tassel neon dress by Christopher Esber which is layered with a shearling coat by Max Mara for the ultimate in clashing textures.
ILLUSTRATION FLUFFY CARDIGAN, ZIMMERMAN, SHOP SIMILAR. TAILORED CROPPED JACKET (CACTUS LEATHER) IN WINE RED, ARIELLE MANON, SHOP SIMILAR. SLASH DRESS TOP, SPEED, SHOP SIMILAR. COLOREE BODYSUIT, ERES, SHOP SIMILAR. KNITTED STOCKINGS, MIU MIU, SHOP SIMILAR. HOOF BOOTS, MATEA GLUSCEVIC, SHOP SIMILAR. FINE KELP PEARL NECKLACE, SARAH AND SEBASTIAN, SHOP NOW. D-STUDS HAND JEWELERRY IN GOLD FINISHING METAL AND WHITE RESIN PEARLS, CHRISTIAN DIOR, SHOP SIMILAR
LOOK 10
Striving to design clothes that are ethically innovative while maintaining quality, is something that designer Arielle Manon obsesses about. To the point that the leather cropped jacket seen here is made from cactus leather. Her goal is to use deadstock, emerging fabrications and technologies to take clothes to the next level. Matea Gluscevic’s hoof platform boots deserve a mention as well, not only for originality and functional beauty, but each shoe is made from salvaged leather and, where possible, vegetable tanned leathers sourced from Australia and Italy. The intention is to move to 100 percent vegetable tanned leather next year. Lips shine in equal parts of balm, tint and gloss with Glossier Ultra High Lipstick.
LEFT: CALADIUM JACKET PETROL, CARL KAPP, SHOP SIMILAR. BOOTS, FENDI, SHOP SIMILAR. CARNELIAN 18K GOLD-FINISH STERLING SILVER EARRINGS, BOTTEGA VENETA, SHOP SIMILAR. RIGHT: SHIRT, SHOP SIMILAR, KNIT DRESS, SHOP SIMILAR, DRESS, SHOP SIMILAR, BRASS ORNAMENTS, SHOP SIMILAR, MIU MIU
LOOK 11 & 12
For bespoke fashion designer Carl Kapp, the inspiration starts with touch. His old school approach begins with a sketch before sourcing fabrics all over the world and then creating a pattern with a calico toile of the garment, as seen layered here. The ultimate test is how the garment drapes and moves on the woman he’s designing for and the discovery of how it makes her feel. It’s the manual labour skills necessary to produce a quiet but luxurious outcome. Style note: Add heirloom antique brooches to individualise your blazer lapel, hat or knitwear as seen on this Miu Miu cardigan.
LEFT: BAG, WEEKEND MAX MARA, SHOP SIMILAR. CHAIR, PRIM HAUS, SHOP SIMILAR. RIGHT: DISTRESSED DENIM BLAZER, INJURY, SHOP SIMILAR. SIMONE BROOCH, AGMES, SHOP NOW. RV PEARLS BROOCH, ROGER VIVIER, SHOP SIMILAR
LOOK 13
Crafting doesn’t always mean adopting old-age techniques. Take Injury designers Eugene Leung and Dan Tse who like to take a universal approach: pushing the boundaries of technology into wearable fabrics while also weaving in music, CGI and films for endless inspiration. Their current collection includes futuristic streetwear designs created from 100 percent recycled plastic bottles and upcycling denim jeans from previous collections. Unfinished seams and fringing make for a distressed blazer seen here. The result is cutting edge tailoring that is meant to keep you out of your comfort zone.
LEFT: SHIRT, SHOP SIMILAR, KNIT DRESS, SHOP SIMILAR, DRESS, SHOP SIMILAR, BRASS ORNAMENTS, SHOP SIMILAR, MIU MIU. RIGHT: WOOL TWEED TOP, SHOP SIMILAR, METAL, GLASS DIAMANTES EARRINGS, SHOP SIMILAR, CHANEL
LOOK 14
Photographer: Kristina Yenko
Fashion Director: Aileen Marr
Hair: Anthony Nadar
Makeup: Cherry Cheung
Fashion Assistant: Kelly Harty
Talent: Kajal / The Scouted
LOOKs WE LOVE:
BATED BREATH FRINGE TOP, MATICEVSKI, $1600, SHOP NOW
AWAKE MODE CURVED SIDE UPCYCLE STRAIGHT LEG DENIM JEANS, PARLOUR X, $785, SHOP NOW
COSMOS EARRINGS 9CT, LUCY FOLK, $1600, SHOP NOW
MINI SQUEEZE BAG IN BEADED LEATHER, LOEWE, $11,350, SHOP NOW
PAVILION ROULEAU MINI DRESS, ZIMMERMANN, $2750, SHOP NOW
SOIE MALAQUAIS EAU DE PARFUM 100ML, DRIES VAN NOTEN, $520, SHOP NOW
PATCHWORK KELP CHOPINE BOOTS, MATEA GLUSCEVIC, $1690, SHOP NOW
