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Early mornings on West Buttermilk, a mellow trail on Aspen’s beginner-friendly mountain, caused me to forget everything I knew about the one time I learnt how to ski. Unlike my time in ski school in France, I would now have poles and longer skis, and I was no longer encouraged to position the latter into a ‘pizza’ shape in order to slow down.
The sessions were a practice in my ability to focus on a new technique for hours at a time, its rhythm broken every now and again by the sheer smugness I felt from slaloming in and out of the lesser-experienced runners. You see, skiing is a learnt love of mine. I always enjoyed the promise of a glass of Chablis at the bottom of a powdery piste, much less the thought of careening down it in a padded, puffed-up fit. Now, I like them both equally and, frankly, owe this new mode of thinking to Aspen, the little former silver mining town which has just as much to offer a beginner skier on the snow as it does off it.
Remarkably, and despite the weakness of our dollar, Australia is one of the biggest international markets to visit Aspen. Chalk it up to the world-class four-mountain skiing experience, the incredible dining options or its glamorous history playing host to the rich and famous, Aspen has carried some serious cachet Down Under for years. In fact, a who’s who of wealthier Australians have made the jewel in Colorado’s Rocky Mountains their January bolthole since the ’90s. Some even bought-in back then. Others told their friends all about it.
Aspen did, and still does, sit in the same league as St. Moritz in Switzerland and Courchevel in France. Its connection between the slopes and the well-heeled began in the 1930s, when the owners of Aspen’s ski resorts invited movie stars to spend the weekend at Snowmass. These days, it’s not unusual to spot a celebrity on the streets of Aspen – concierges in this town are known for their discretion and stars flock here for a reprieve from the prying paparazzi. Just weeks before I arrived in town in March, Kim Kardashian was spotted traversing Buttermilk Mountain, at speed and without a helmet – don’t do that. Rihanna, A$AP Rocky and Kyle Richards were papped in the famous western garb boutique Kemo Sabe and Justin and Hailey Bieber joined friends Kendall Jenner, Nina Dobrev and Shaun White on the mountains. But contrary to popular belief, you don’t have to be able to produce your own Cartier or charter a private plane to experience Aspen. (Although a park for your jet can be arranged at Aspen/Pitkin County airport, should you need. And you can keep an eye on it from Buttermilk’s chair lift!)
Aspen’s four mountains include Aspen Mountain (fondly known as AJAX), Aspen Highlands, Snowmass and Buttermilk. The latter recently underwent a US$23 million (AU$34 million) facelift at its base area and now offers a new restaurant and a guest services building designed using sustainable materials and powered by renewable energy. It was nothing short of a pleasure to grab a glass of wine and a slice of pepperoni pizza at the new Buttermilk Mountain Lodge and sit out in the bar area which overlooks the half pipe. While I wondered each day if I had the stamina to tackle another blue run post-lunch – I’m a beginner skier, remember, and tire easily – the views at the intersection of Lover’s Lane and Buckskin trail always made the mental angst worth it. Indeed, there were so many wonderful vistas on this mountain – first-timers should check out the Cliff House on the East Summit.
Tip: I rented my skis and boots from Four Mountain Sports Buttermilk. If you rent from them (there’s one based at each mountain), your equipment will be transferred to wherever you would like it the next day – just drop it at the Ski Concierge for inter-mountain transfer. Yes, no need to carry heavy equipment to and from your hotel.
WHERE TO APRÈS
Waiting in line for the 15-minute gondola ride to the top of Aspen Mountain is like waiting for your turn to step onto a runway in Milan or Paris; Prada, Fendi, Moncler, Chanel, Perfect Moment, Goldbergh, Rossignol – every designer brand imaginable awaits in this queue. It’s people-watching at its finest. With two ski international holidays under my belt, and as someone who cares about how I present myself, the women who can source a chic ski suit which is suitable for both the slopes and après-hour are my heroes. And while I tell you all of this, I promise the vibe is far more down to Earth than it sounds. Throw a few Champagnes in at elevation – the top of Aspen Mountain is 3,418 metres above sea level – and social standings go out the frosted window.
Visit Sundeck for lunch and après ski, or Ajax Tavern, at the foot of the same mountain. While Sundeck has those top-of-the-world views, Ajax is more popular. The new bar inside The Little Nell, aptly named The Wine Bar, is also good, albeit an elevated setting for a drink. Walk-ins accepted. Big groups should book ahead.
“Ajax Tavern at The Little Nell has the best patio in ski season. Truffle fries served in a cone, wagyu double cheeseburgers, the gluten-free cauliflower gratin – they are all staples!” says May Selby, the director of PR at The Little Nell and Aspen Hospitality. “The Wine Bar is open exclusively during ski season, from mid-December, serving as a hot spot for après-ski, through to late-March.”
“I love how walkable – and bike-able and skiable – Aspen is,” Selby continues. “I live downtown so I can walk to work at The Little Nell, walk to the gondola to ski, walk to Belly Up to hear bands and DJs from all over the world, and walk to art openings at the art museum. As a Francophile, I adore the breezy scene at Betula, owned by French Chef Laurent Cantineaux who is also a partner in the sister restaurant Bonito Saint Barth. For a more relaxed environment, Buck is a haven for locals, with very reasonably priced drinks, sliders, and more. I also love Clark’s Oyster Bar and Las Montañas.”
WHERE TO STAY
The Limelight Hotel, a 126-room property in the heart of downtown, is a prime place to stay. Contemporary design meets that ski-lodge feel – tartan throw rugs and shearling aplenty – and an outdoor pool and hot tub are rejuvenating on the legs after a snow day. Shuttles run to and from the four ski mountains daily, and the wood-fire pizzas hit the spot.
You can’t beat a five-star ski-in, ski-out hotel. The Little Nell, a favourite of Kim Kardashian’s is an A-lister magnet. With stunning suites that look over Aspen Mountain, an après ski hotspot, a beautiful wine bar and one of the town’s hottest restaurants, Element 47, if you came to Aspen and didn’t go anywhere else, you’d still have seen the best parts. Note: The Little Nell’s hot chocolate is as famous as the names who walk through the door.
“The Little Nell attracts a wide range of guests – families grow up here on vacation and we see a high percentage of them return for special occasions like weddings and holidays,” says Selby. “Friends come for spa getaways. We see business travelers. We have many weddings at the top of the mountain on our wedding deck in full view of the Elk range and Aspen Highlands’ Highland Bowl.
“We welcome dignitaries, tech magnates, silver-screen stars, reality show personalities, master sommeliers, grand chefs, authors, models, you name it… those who seek the very best in connection, adventure and a zest for life,” Selby continues. “I often say ‘the whole world comes to Aspen’ for that very reason. Our top international clientele are from Australia, Brazil, Canada, Mexico, the UK, and beyond. Domestically, our top markets are New York, Chicago, San Francisco, Los Angeles, Denver, Houston, Dallas, Miami, Boston, Atlanta – quite literally all over.”
Although a little out of town, Aspen Meadows is another hotel option if you’re after a quiet sanctuary away from the bustle of the town. This nature-inspired Bauhaus design, with its spacious suites, boasts panoramic views of Aspen Mountain, Aspen Highlands, and Buttermilk. The property’s restaurant, West End Social, was the best dinner I had in Aspen. Just mind the elks of a morning!
The mountain spirit is alive and kicking at Hotel Jerome, a 135-year-old luxury hotel in the heart of Aspen. The city’s only hotel to survive the silver crash of 1893 – the year the US government decided not to back its currency as silver, the backstop of this silver mining town – Hotel Jerome is a storied place to stay. Luxury suites are contemporary, albeit brimming with heritage.
WHERE TO DINE
Aspen is known for its incredible hospitality, and there are some excellent newcomers to the restaurant scene: the fine-dining fare at Parc; the female-helmed restaurant with a view of the ski mountains at West End Social; The Boat Tow for a more laid-back après-all-day style menu. Visit the family-owned one-Michelin-star restaurant Bosq for a fancy date, and stop into Meat & Cheese for cheese and wine in between boutique shopping.
A stand-out whiskey bar sits at the foot of Aspen Mountain. Deep mahogany-hued flooring, leather loungers and equestrian trinkets set the scene at Stranahan’s Whiskey Lodge. Back in 1998, when a firefighter helped save the barn of his neighbour, the two realised a shared passion for fine whiskey and decided to develop a recipe for a distinctively smooth and flavourful American single malt. Handcrafted from grain to glass in Denver, Colorado, the tasting experience here, with side snacks, is amazing. The whiskey sours are also a must.
A cocktail speakeasy worth a visit is Bad Harriet. Nestled beneath the historic Aspen Times newspaper building on Main Street, this subterranean bar celebrates powerful women in history.
WHAT TO DO
“Oh, you need the whole hat experience,” a bubbly sales attendant with a thick southern accent tells me as she ushers me into the western-themed boutique Kemo Sabe. Since its humble beginnings in 1990, this store has become part of Aspen lore, largely thanks to its high-end clientele such as Rihanna and Beyoncé. Its walls are filled with hats and boots and other western-inspired wares and, positioned in the Snowmass village, it’s worth the queue to get in.
Pronounced ke-mo sah-bee, a hat here can cost hundreds of American dollars, depending on the level of customisation involved. Australians can also purchase a hat box for US$100 (AU$147) to keep your headgear pristine during the plane journey home.
Unsurprisingly, Aspen has storefronts for Prada, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Valentino, and Dior. If you’re into a mix of these, or the latest Birkin, hit up Australian-owned Wyld Blue on Galena Street. If you’ve got an affinity for vintage stores, visit Susie’s Consignments. In a town like Aspen, the product coming into thrift stores is something else.
Aspen is also well-known for its art scene. Pick up a coffee from Sant Ambroeus on Hyman Avenue and wander across the road to the Aspen Art Museum, an artist-founded, exhibition-focused institution dedicated to the bold. Even the outside of the 3,000-square-metre building is interesting to look at: a hybrid structure of concrete, steel, and wood.
For wine lovers, head to The Little Nell’s wine cellar for a private, sommelier-hosted tasting or dinner, with selections pulled from the 20,000-bottle red-lit vault. “Guests are welcome to book time in the cellar for a private dinner for up to four people,” says Selby. “More often, though, it is offered for tastings that are customised to each reservation. They start at US$500 (AU$744) per person.”
The Little Nell is also home to Aspen’s best spa. Book ahead at The Spa to indulge in an experience specifically made for the high-altitude environment. The rigours of skiing definitely took a toll on my body and it was wonderful to sink into a 90-minute massage. My therapist also set up a facial oxygen machine, which delivered a soothing stream of 90 percent pure oxygen to my face throughout the massage to help me adjust to Aspen’s 2,400m altitude. All ready for another early morning on West Buttermilk.
For more information on how to book your next ski adventure in Aspen, visit aspensnowmass.com. Delta airlines fly direct to Aspen from LAX (two-hour flight) every day.
