Today the setting was a different one for Hugo Boss. Instead of the towering Empire State and 5th Avenue, it was the Duomo and Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, as the designer travelled to Milan from New York City for the first time. But as this new chapter in Italy began, a slice of the Big Apple remained, the city serving as a point of inspiration for today’s Spring Summer 2020 collection in the Via Savona. Its iconic skyscrapers, its waterside locales and its people shaping the strong suiting and elevated sportswear that transpired on the blue-soaked runway.

True to the Boss heritage, tailoring was key; clean and precise it soared to bold, bright new heights with short neat jackets and wide-leg pants rendered in juicy cherry, lemon and cobalt. Sophisticated but with a lighter touch, its sportswear was refined and technical through sharper cuts and luxurious fabrications.

Along with sturdy suiting, however, there was also breezy summer effortlessness; silky maxi dresses, fluid coats and crisp cotton revealing Boss’s softer side. There was even a touch of gloss, keeping the outerwear thoroughly modern. But perhaps most interesting was the treatment of leather; patch-worked, bonded, laminated, and laser-cut to create airy dresses, it expressed the intricate craftsmanship Boss prides itself.

Footwear was tough and mighty; men’s leather strap sandals, chunky-sole Oxfords and sneakers walked alongside women’s abstract mules in solid and woven leather, square at the toe and stacked, while the new colour-blocked Kristin bag was a star.

With this transatlantic point of view, the new Boss woman is clearly a well-travelled one; one who wears bright suits, breezy skirts and chunky mules. She’s the Boss, after all.